PanoTools.org Wiki - User contributions [en]

Entrance Pupil Database

2008-01-10T20:52:01Z

Geoff Mather: /* Tripod Mount Measurements */

Wouldn't it be great if everyone entered their values for their [[No-parallax point| NPP / Nodal Point / Entrance Pupil]] for lens and camera combinations.
Some searching on the web will find a lot of people saying they want to start to create a database of some kind, but have not seen anything substantial so far (correct me if I am wrong).

Please enter your own values if they are not listed.

Thanks,
--[[User:Korffr|Richard Korff]] 11:12, 13 May 2005 (EDT)

To cater for all the different camera bodies and lenses, the tables have been split into 2 parts:

*The '''first table''' shows the position of the tripod mount in relation to the lens axis. This is easy to measure and is dependent only on the camera body.
*The '''second table''' shows the actual entrance pupil distance which is only dependent on the lens itself. Note that the [[No-parallax point|NPP]] for [[Special issues with fisheye lenses|fisheye]] lenses is not constant over the image circle's [[Field of View|FoV]], so you will sometimes find different NPP values depending on the angle where your images overlap.

Use as much as possible actual measurements rather than the reading on your [[panorama head]], unless your are sure these are the same.

To enter a line for your combination, edit the page by clicking edit at the top of the screen (you may need to create an account or sign-in first), and edit the table below.

== Tripod Mount Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! Style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Camera'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Tripod mount off-center (C)'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Tripod mount height (H)'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Tripod mount length (L1)'''
|-
|[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] || [[Image:EPDB-off-center.jpg|Tripod mount off-center]] || [[Image:EPDB-height.jpg|Tripod mount height]] || [[Image:EPDB-length1.jpg|Tripod mount length]]
|-
| Use the correct name of your camera. For digital camera's, please use the name as mentioned at [http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs.asp dpreview]. || Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the the middle of the tripod mount to the lens axis (0 if the tripod mount is over the centre of the lens) || Facing the camera, the distance from the base of the camera to the center of the lens || Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the middle of the tripod mount to the base of the lens base, or base for adaptor tube. For fixed lens camera's which do not allow use of adaptors this column is not applicable.
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel (EOS Digital Rebel) || align="center" | 0mm || align="center" |40mm || align="center" | 40mm
|-
|Nikon D70 || align="center" | 0mm || align="center" | 52mm || align="center" | 36mm
|-
|Nikon C8800 || align="center" | 19.1 mm || align="center" | 67.9 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon EOS 350D / Digital Rebel XT (measured by NP) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37.5 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel (measured by NP) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |40 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D100 with MB-D100 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 33,5 mm
|-
|Fujifilm FinePix S7000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 32.8 mm || align="center" | 69mm + 37mm(Adapt.Tube)=106mm
|-
|Canon EOS 20D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 40 mm || align="center" | 36.5mm
|-
|Canon PowerShot A630 || align="center" | 15 mm || align="center" | 28 mm || align="center" | 0mm (fixed lens)
|-
|Nikon D300 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 47.6 mm || align="center" | 42.4mm
|-
|Nikon D300 + MB-D10 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 90.2 mm || align="center" | 31.4mm

|}

 
 
 
 
 
 

== Entrance Pupil Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="37%" | '''Lens'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="38%" | '''Focal Length / # of pics for 360° / Degree between pics'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Entrance Pupil Length (L2)'''
|-
|[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] ||[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] || [[Image:EPDB-length2.jpg|Entrance Pupil Length]]
|-
| Enter the exact lens name, or if you are using a camera with a fixed lens the name of your camera ||[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] || Facing the side of the lens, the distance from the base of the lens to the Entrance Pupil. A negative value means the entrance pupil is before the lens base. (not sure if this makes sense in a theoretical way)
|-
| EF-S 10-22mm || align="center" | 10mm || align="center" | 66mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 18mm || align="center" | 47mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 23mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 45mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 55mm || align="center" | 55mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 17mm || align="center" | 71mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 28mm || align="center" | 69mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 40mm || align="center" | 72mm
|-
| Canon 50mm f1.8II || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 23mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 70mm || align="center" | 83mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 85mm || align="center" | 70mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 100mm || align="center" | 45mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 135mm || align="center" | -30mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 200mm || align="center" | -30mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 18mm / 10p / 36° || align="center" | 51mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 24mm / 12p / 30° || align="center" | 44mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 35mm / 18p / 20° || align="center" | 33.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 50mm / 24p / 15° || align="center" | 24.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 70mm / 36p / 10° || align="center" | -6.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || align="center" | 10.5mm / 8p / 45° || align="center" | 45.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || align="center" | 10.5mm / 6p / 60° || align="center" | 46mm
|-
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX || align="center" | 8mm / 6p / 60° || align="center" | 47.5mm
|-
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX || align="center" | 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 51mm
|-
| Nikon C8800 at Wide inf. (is this at the widest setting ?) || align="center" | 8.9mm ?? || align="center" | 75mm center of tripod mtg screw to Ent Pupil
|-
| Peleng-N 8mm F3.5 || align="center" | 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 44mm
|-
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX DG || align="center" | 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 49mm
|-
| Opteka 0.22X UHD II FishEye || align="center" | 0.22X - 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 35.75mm
|-
| Tamron 90mm F2.8 Di2 Macro || align="center" | 90mm || align="center" | 34mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 10mm || align="center" | 62mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 14mm || align="center" | 64mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 20mm || align="center" | 68mm
|-
| Raynox DCR-CF185PRO || align="center" | Conversion lens || align="center" | 80mm
|-
| Canon PowerShot A630 || align="center" | 35mm (wide open) || align="center" | 31mm
|-
| <Manufacturer / Lens> || align="center" | <Focal Length> || align="center" | <Entrance Pupil Length>
|}

 

*To calculate the Entrance pupil distance add the Tripod Mount Length (L1) from the camera and the Entrance Pupil Length (L2) from the lens. So for example for a Canon 300d and a 10-22mm at 10mm, the total Entrance pupil distance from the tripod mount is 40mm + 66mm = 106mm

*For these '''''Focal Length''''' values the actual focus is set to infinity (<math>\infty</math>)

== Related Resources ==

* VRwave lens database - http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic/photography/lens_database.html
* Panoramic Resolution by Ken Turkowski - http://www.worldserver.com/turk/quicktimevr/panores.html

[[Category:Hardware]]

Talk:Entrance Pupil Database

2006-10-09T18:37:06Z

Geoff Mather:

I am confused by the terms "horizontal" and "off-axial" adjustment.

It seems like they should be "horizontal" and "vertical".

And these depend on camera orientation. The distance between camera base and lens axis is "horizontal" only if the camera is in portrait orientation. In landscape, that same distance is "vertical".

Pictures should make this clear.

Perhaps it would be even more clear to refer to these offsets as "basal" and "lateral", or some such.

Is there a standard nomenclature for these things? Where is it defined?

--Rik

------
Rik,

I agree with you. Initially I had x, y and z but that would probably be just as arbitrary.
I have not had the time to take pictures of the setup to show what I mean.
The descriptions I had in mind are based on a portrait setup.

I am not sure if there are standard definition for it. I was not able to find it.
Any help or suggestions would be helpfull.

Richard
------

== Number of picture for 360 / Degrees between picture ==

Peter,

Thanks for adding your measurements.

I have a question. I thought the degrees between the pictures would only be applicable to Fisheye lenses ? Does that also apply to normal lenses ? Or is the difference only noticable in Fisheye lenses, and too small have an impact on normal lenses.

Thanks,

Richard

-- [[User:Korffr|Korffr]] 10:40, 22 May 2005 (EDT)

Hi Richard,

Sorry, I don't know if there is a difference between fisheye and normal lenses. For me it is more an information about the number of pictures needed for 360 degrees with enough overlap. These values are for portrait orientation. Probably we should make a third table with additional things like this then put all the informations in one table, isn't it?

--[[User:Pitdavos|Pitdavos]] 11:31, 22 May 2005 (EDT)

== Tripod Mount Length L1 ==
The text for this measurment includes "For fixed lens camera's this column is not applicable." Is this really true ? A lot of "Fixed" lens cameras do allow the addition of an adaptor tube which then permits the additional lenses to be added - whilst this implies that such cameras are not "Fixed lens" the way it reads now I suspect puts people off inserting a measurment for cameras which include a Fixed lens.

Unless there is another reason I would propose to change the text to read;
"Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the middle of the tripod mount to the base of the lens base, or base for adaptor tube. For fixed lens camera's which do not allow use of adaptors this column is not applicable."

Thoughts ?

Geoff

OK well no comments after several weeks so, changes made and the Fuji S7000 is listed with the length of its adaptor tube as well as an example

Geoff

Entrance Pupil Database

2006-10-09T18:35:22Z

Geoff Mather: /* Tripod Mount Measurements */

Wouldn't it be great if everyone entered their values for their [[Nodal Point | Nodal Point / Entrance Pupil]] for lens and camera combinations.

Some searching on the web will find a lot of people saying they want to start to create a database of some kind, but have not seen anything substantial so far (correct me if I am wrong).

Please enter your own values if they are not listed.

Thanks,

--[[User:Korffr|Richard Korff]] 11:12, 13 May 2005 (EDT)

To cater for all the different camera bodies and lenses, the tables have been split into 2 parts.

The first table shows the position of the tripod mount in relation to the lens axis. This is easy to measure and is dependent only on the camera body The second table shows the actual entrance pupil distance which is only dependent on the lens itself.

Use as much as possible actual measurements rather than the reading on your panorama head, unless your are sure these are the same.

To enter a line for your combination, edit the page by clicking edit at the top of the screen (you may need to create an account or sign-in first), and edit the table below.

== Tripod Mount Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! Style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Camera'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Tripod mount off-center (C)'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Tripod mount height (H)'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Tripod mount length (L1)'''
|-
|[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] || [[Image:EPDB-off-center.jpg|Tripod mount off-center]] || [[Image:EPDB-height.jpg|Tripod mount height]] || [[Image:EPDB-length1.jpg|Tripod mount length]]
|-
| Use the correct name of your camera. For digital camera's, please use the name as mentioned at [http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs.asp dpreview]. || Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the the middle of the tripod mount to the lens axis (0 if the tripod mount is over the centre of the lens) || Facing the camera, the distance from the base of the camera to the center of the lens || Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the middle of the tripod mount to the base of the lens base, or base for adaptor tube. For fixed lens camera's which do not allow use of adaptors this column is not applicable.
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel (EOS Digital Rebel) || align="center" | 0mm || align="center" |40mm || align="center" | 40mm
|-
|Nikon D70 || align="center" | 0mm || align="center" | 52mm || align="center" | 36mm
|-
|Nikon C8800 || align="center" | 19.1 mm || align="center" | 67.9 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon EOS 350D / Digital Rebel XT (measured by NP) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37.5 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel (measured by NP) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |40 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D100 with MB-D100 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 33,5 mm
|-
|Fujifilm FinePix S7000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 32.8 mm || align="center" | 69mm + 37mm(Adapt.Tube)=106mm
|}

 
 
 
 
 
 

== Entrance Pupil Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="37%" | '''Lens'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="38%" | '''Focal Length / # of pics for 360° / Degree between pics'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Entrance Pupil Length (L2)'''
|-
|[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] ||[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] || [[Image:EPDB-length2.jpg|Entrance Pupil Length]]
|-
| Enter the exact lens name, or if you are using a camera with a fixed lens the name of your camera ||[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] || Facing the side of the lens, the distance from the base of the lens to the Entrance Pupil. A negative value means the entrance pupil is before the lens base. (not sure if this makes sense in a theoretical way)
|-
| EF-S 10-22mm || align="center" | 10mm || align="center" | 66mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 18mm || align="center" | 47mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 23mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 45mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 55mm || align="center" | 55mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 17mm || align="center" | 71mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 28mm || align="center" | 69mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 40mm || align="center" | 72mm
|-
| Canon 50mm f1.8II || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 23mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 70mm || align="center" | 83mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 85mm || align="center" | 70mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 100mm || align="center" | 45mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 135mm || align="center" | -30mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 200mm || align="center" | -30mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 18mm / 10p / 36° || align="center" | 51mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 24mm / 12p / 30° || align="center" | 44mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 35mm / 18p / 20° || align="center" | 33.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 50mm / 24p / 15° || align="center" | 24.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 70mm / 36p / 10° || align="center" | -6.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || align="center" | 10.5mm / 8p / 45° || align="center" | 45.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || align="center" | 10.5mm / 6p / 60° || align="center" | 46mm
|-
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX || align="center" | 8mm / 6p / 60° || align="center" | 47.5mm
|-
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX || align="center" | 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 51mm
|-
| Nikon C8800 at Wide inf. (is this at the widest setting ?) || align="center" | 8.9mm ?? || align="center" | 75mm center of tripod mtg screw to Ent Pupil
|-
| Peleng-N 8mm F3.5 || align="center" | 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 44mm
|-
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX DG || align="center" | 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 49mm
|-
| Opteka 0.22X UHD II FishEye || align="center" | 0.22X - 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 35.75mm
|-
| Tamron 90mm F2.8 Di2 Macro || align="center" | 90mm || align="center" | 34mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 10mm || align="center" | 62mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 14mm || align="center" | 64mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 20mm || align="center" | 68mm
|-
| Raynox DCR-CF185PRO || align="center" | Conversion lens || align="center" | 80mm
|-
| <Manufacturer / Lens> || align="center" | <Focal Length> || align="center" | <Entrance Pupil Length>
|}

 

*To calculate the Entrance pupil distance add the Tripod Mount Length (L1) from the camera and the Entrance Pupil Length (L2) from the lens. So for example for a Canon 300d and a 10-22mm at 10mm, the total Entrance pupil distance from the tripod mount is 40mm + 66mm = 106mm

*For these '''''Focal Length''''' values the actual focus is set to infinity (laying eight)

== Related Resources ==

* VRwave lens database - http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic/photography/lens_database.html
* Panoramic Resolution by Ken Turkowski - http://www.worldserver.com/turk/quicktimevr/panores.html

Entrance Pupil Database

2006-10-09T17:06:19Z

Geoff Mather:

Wouldn't it be great if everyone entered their values for their [[Nodal Point | Nodal Point / Entrance Pupil]] for lens and camera combinations.

Some searching on the web will find a lot of people saying they want to start to create a database of some kind, but have not seen anything substantial so far (correct me if I am wrong).

Please enter your own values if they are not listed.

Thanks,

--[[User:Korffr|Richard Korff]] 11:12, 13 May 2005 (EDT)

To cater for all the different camera bodies and lenses, the tables have been split into 2 parts.

The first table shows the position of the tripod mount in relation to the lens axis. This is easy to measure and is dependent only on the camera body The second table shows the actual entrance pupil distance which is only dependent on the lens itself.

Use as much as possible actual measurements rather than the reading on your panorama head, unless your are sure these are the same.

To enter a line for your combination, edit the page by clicking edit at the top of the screen (you may need to create an account or sign-in first), and edit the table below.

== Tripod Mount Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! Style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Camera'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Tripod mount off-center (C)'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Tripod mount height (H)'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Tripod mount length (L1)'''
|-
|[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] || [[Image:EPDB-off-center.jpg|Tripod mount off-center]] || [[Image:EPDB-height.jpg|Tripod mount height]] || [[Image:EPDB-length1.jpg|Tripod mount length]]
|-
| Use the correct name of your camera. For digital camera's, please use the name as mentioned at [http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs.asp dpreview]. || Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the the middle of the tripod mount to the lens axis (0 if the tripod mount is over the centre of the lens) || Facing the camera, the distance from the base of the camera to the center of the lens || Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the middle of the tripod mount to the base of the lens base. For fixed lens camera's this column is not applicable.
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel (EOS Digital Rebel) || align="center" | 0mm || align="center" |40mm || align="center" | 40mm
|-
|Nikon D70 || align="center" | 0mm || align="center" | 52mm || align="center" | 36mm
|-
|Nikon C8800 || align="center" | 19.1 mm || align="center" | 67.9 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon EOS 350D / Digital Rebel XT (measured by NP) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37.5 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel (measured by NP) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |40 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D100 with MB-D100 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 33,5 mm
|-
|Fujifilm FinePix S7000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 32.8 mm || align="center" | 69mm + 37mm(Adapt.Tube)=106mm
|}

 
 
 
 
 
 

== Entrance Pupil Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="37%" | '''Lens'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="38%" | '''Focal Length / # of pics for 360° / Degree between pics'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Entrance Pupil Length (L2)'''
|-
|[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] ||[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] || [[Image:EPDB-length2.jpg|Entrance Pupil Length]]
|-
| Enter the exact lens name, or if you are using a camera with a fixed lens the name of your camera ||[[Image:Transparent_pixel.png]] || Facing the side of the lens, the distance from the base of the lens to the Entrance Pupil. A negative value means the entrance pupil is before the lens base. (not sure if this makes sense in a theoretical way)
|-
| EF-S 10-22mm || align="center" | 10mm || align="center" | 66mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 18mm || align="center" | 47mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 23mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 45mm
|-
| Kit Lens 18-55mm || align="center" | 55mm || align="center" | 55mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 17mm || align="center" | 71mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 28mm || align="center" | 69mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 40mm || align="center" | 72mm
|-
| Canon 50mm f1.8II || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 23mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 70mm || align="center" | 83mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 85mm || align="center" | 70mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 100mm || align="center" | 45mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 135mm || align="center" | -30mm
|-
| Sigma70-300 || align="center" | 200mm || align="center" | -30mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 18mm / 10p / 36° || align="center" | 51mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 24mm / 12p / 30° || align="center" | 44mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 35mm / 18p / 20° || align="center" | 33.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 50mm / 24p / 15° || align="center" | 24.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 70mm / 36p / 10° || align="center" | -6.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || align="center" | 10.5mm / 8p / 45° || align="center" | 45.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || align="center" | 10.5mm / 6p / 60° || align="center" | 46mm
|-
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX || align="center" | 8mm / 6p / 60° || align="center" | 47.5mm
|-
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX || align="center" | 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 51mm
|-
| Nikon C8800 at Wide inf. (is this at the widest setting ?) || align="center" | 8.9mm ?? || align="center" | 75mm center of tripod mtg screw to Ent Pupil
|-
| Peleng-N 8mm F3.5 || align="center" | 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 44mm
|-
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX DG || align="center" | 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 49mm
|-
| Opteka 0.22X UHD II FishEye || align="center" | 0.22X - 8mm / 4p / 90° || align="center" | 35.75mm
|-
| Tamron 90mm F2.8 Di2 Macro || align="center" | 90mm || align="center" | 34mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 10mm || align="center" | 62mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 14mm || align="center" | 64mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 20mm || align="center" | 68mm
|-
| Raynox DCR-CF185PRO || align="center" | Conversion lens || align="center" | 80mm
|-
| <Manufacturer / Lens> || align="center" | <Focal Length> || align="center" | <Entrance Pupil Length>
|}

 

*To calculate the Entrance pupil distance add the Tripod Mount Length (L1) from the camera and the Entrance Pupil Length (L2) from the lens. So for example for a Canon 300d and a 10-22mm at 10mm, the total Entrance pupil distance from the tripod mount is 40mm + 66mm = 106mm

*For these '''''Focal Length''''' values the actual focus is set to infinity (laying eight)

== Related Resources ==

* VRwave lens database - http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic/photography/lens_database.html
* Panoramic Resolution by Ken Turkowski - http://www.worldserver.com/turk/quicktimevr/panores.html

User:Geoff Mather

2006-08-19T19:58:48Z

Geoff Mather:

== General ==
Fairly new to this subject still ! I started in November 2005 after looking for some better stitching software than which came free with an old digital camera as a freebie package. I soon found Panotools and hence a new world suddenly opened up! 
My other interest area is Amateur radio and especially Amateur Televison, as you'll gather from my web sites; 
[http://www.g8dhe.com/ Main web site] 
[http://www.g8dhe.net/ Local "server" with the more active and dynamic content!] 

== Current Kit ==
Current kit can be viewed [http://www.g8dhe.net/panoramas/equipment.htm here] the lens really isn't up for much in quality terms, but does provide a cheap and quick way in!

== Panowork ==
Some of my smaller items can be seen [http://www.g8dhe.net/panoramas/ on my local "server" web site] as you will see there has been an improvment over the year, but the current FE lens will have to go soon!

Amateur photographers

2006-08-19T19:56:28Z

Geoff Mather: /* M */

Please add the entry alphabetically to the list.

{{CompactTOC}}

== A ==

== B ==

== C ==

== D ==

Denis Roncali ---
[http://www.denisroncali.it/Fotografie/FrigoEcomin01/FrigoEcomin01-2400.html claustropano 1] -
[http://www.denisroncali.it/Fotografie/FornoCasa01/FornoCasa01-2400.html claustropano 2] -
[http://www.denisroncali.it/Fotografie/LavatriceCasa01/LavatriceCasa01-2400.html claustropano 3]

Richard Drew ---
[http://www.add360.com/virtual_tour_panoramic_samples.htm Some Samples]

== E ==

== F ==

== G ==

== H ==

[[User:Smensch01|Stefan Henze]]

== I ==

== J ==

== K ==

== L ==

== M ==

[[User:Serge|Serge Maandag]] 
[[User:Geoff Mather| Geoff Mather]] 

== N ==

== O ==

== P ==
[[photopla.net|Photopla.net aka Yuval Levy]]

== Q ==

== R ==

== S ==
[[User:Jeff|Jeff Stephens]]

[[User:Rudi|Rudi Szabo]]

== T ==

== U ==

== V ==

== W ==

== X ==

== Y ==

== Z ==

== 0 - 9 ==

== others ==

User:Geoff Mather

2006-08-19T19:53:32Z

Geoff Mather:

== General ==
Fairly new to this subject still ! I started in November 2005 after looking for some better stitching software than which came with a freebie package. I soon found Panotools and hence a new world suddenly opened up!

My other interest area is Amateur radio and especially Amateur Televison, as you'll gather from my web sites;

[http://www.g8dhe.com/ Main web site]

[http://www.g8dhe.net/ Local "server" with the more active and dynamic content!]

== Current Kit ==
Current kit can be viewed [http://www.g8dhe.net/panoramas/equipment.htm here] the lens really isn't up for much in quality terms, but does provide a cheap and quick way in!

== Panowork ==
Some of my smaller items can be seen [http://www.g8dhe.net/panoramas/ on my local "server" web site] as you will see there has been an improvment over the year, but the current FE lens will have to go soon!

Talk:Entrance Pupil Database

2006-07-28T08:18:09Z

Geoff Mather: Tripod Mount Length L1 - descriptive text

Hardware

2006-07-15T20:26:12Z

Geoff Mather: /* Lenses */

== hardware ==

=== What type of computer is usable ===
Almost any, as long as it is running some version of Windows, Mac OS, Mac OS X or Linux.
We recommend you to use a reasonably fast computer, since rewarping images and blending them are quite CPU intensive. A slower computer just means a longer wait, though.

'''Memory Matters'''

While a fast processor will speed up the creation of digital panoramas, memory seems to be the single most important hardware requirement. I've stitched 6 and 8 frame panorama's together with as little as 512MB when I had a 3MPix camera, but with my new 8MPix, I can't process more than 3 images with 512 MB. Jumping up to 1 GB of RAM let's me build and manipulate huge digital files. Remember, image manipulation software nearly always stores images in memory uncompressed, so my 3MPix images (2048 x 1536) take up 24MB of RAM. [[User:Jeff|Jeff]] 21:33, 7 Dec 2004 (EST)

However, if you have a large enough hard disk 1 GB of RAM seems enough for all tasks. Both [[Photoshop]] and [[PTStitcher]] use the hard disk heavily. I managed to stitch a 30 layer [[Full 16 bit workflow|16 bit]] 4,000x50,000 pixel panorama on my 1GB Athlon 1400 machine. It took forever and a day not only to stitch but to load into Photoshop, too. Photoshop used 23 GB of scratch disk but work was suprisingly smooth. [[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 05:51, 30 Apr 2005 (EDT)

One caveat - dual hard drives can markedly improve performance, at least in MS Windows machines. If the windows swap file is located on the same drive as the application scratch file, say photoshop, then Windows and Photoshop are battling over hard drive access. Locating your scratch disk on a different PHYSICAL hard drive helps considerably. If you have three drives, that's even better. One for Windows and software, one for your scratch disk (and more software, or storage) and a third for your working files. You can have a performance increase of 20% or more. --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:09, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Cameras ===
Currently content still on [[Camera Kits]] and [[Cameras]] pages

An interesting alternative for cheap fisheye photography: [http://shop.lomography.com/fisheyecamera/ Lomo Fisheye Camera]: 35mm film camera with a 170� fisheye lens

=== Camera Memory ===
Long gone are the days with the 1 meg memory card that came with my first digital camera. Heck, the 64 meg card that came with my last Nikon is now next to useless! I find myself with a collection of cards, from 512 meg up to 1 gig, and I�m looking at the 2 gig cards. With my Coolpix 8700 in Raw mode, the 1 gig card holds around 65 photos! So plan accordingly. You also need to consider memory card speed. A slow card can take several seconds to save a high quality image, compared to a higher speed card taking under a second. Just remember: faster card = higher cost. For situations where you can afford to wait while an image saves, save 25% and get a slower card. But if you need faster save times, you�ll be happier with the faster speed cards. Also see Personal Storage Devices at the bottom of this page. --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:10, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Lenses ===
Narrow angle lenses (field of view < 90 degrees) are often used to create high quality panoramas for print. Fisheye lenses are more often used to create lower quality panoramas for web display, etc. In order to assist with setting up your lens and camera there is a [[Entrance Pupil Database]] with relevant dimensions.

==== Popular narrow angle lenses ====
Any fixed focal length lens would be best for maximum quality. Most zoom lenses suffer from non-standard edge light fall-off ([[vignetting]]) and from heavy lens flare. Consumer zoom lenses often perform badly in terms of contrast, sharpness, maximum aperture and [[chromatic aberration]].

==== Popular wide angle lenses ====
{|
| [http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3236&navigator=1 Sigma 12-24mm f4.5-5.6] || Super wide-angle zoom lens with a 84-122 degree field of view on film SLR cameras
|-
| [http://www.nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=5&productNr=2144 Nikkor 12-24mm f/4 DX] || Super wide-angle zoom lens with a 61-99 degree field of view for Nikon mount DSLR cameras
|}

==== Popular fisheye lenses ====
{|
| [http://www.geocities.com/belshop/content2.html Peleng 8mm/f3.5] || fisheye lens covering a 180 degrees field of view
|-
| [http://www.sigma-photo.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3255&navigator=4 Sigma 8mm/f4] || fisheye lens covering a 180 degrees field of view
|-
| [http://www.nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=5&productNr=2148 Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8 DX] || full frame fisheye (180 degrees diagnonally) for Nikon mount DSLR cameras
|-
| [http://www.rugift.com/photocameras/zenitar_m_fisheye_lens.htm Zenitar 16mm f/2.8] || full frame fisheye (180 degrees diagnonally for 35mm film or full frame sensor) for various SLR and DSLR cameras (manual operation)
|}

==== Fisheye conversion lenses ====
{|
| [http://raynox.co.jp/english/dcr/dcrcf185pro/index.htm Raynox DCR-CF185PRO] || 180 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm
|-
| [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/fc-e9/ Nikon FC-E9] || ~185-190 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm (this is '''not''' only for Nikon, I used this with my Canon PS A75.. you need a [http://www.hama.de/portal/articleId*5592/action*2563 52mm >> 46mm adapter ring].. with that it works great with Canon or whatever you want) An [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/list.htm adapter ring] is required for ALL Nikon cameras, and can make the setup rather large [http://www.panotools.info/mediawiki/index.php?title=Image:Fce9.jpg (almost a foot long!)]
|-
| [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/fc-e8/ Nikon FC-E8] || ~180 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm. [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/list.htm adapter ring required]
|}

There are also many small and cheap semi fisheye conversion lenses available from [http://raynox.co.jp Raynox] if you have a small digital camera and quality is not the most important issue:
{|
| [http://raynox.co.jp/english/video/egvideoindex.htm Raynox video camera index] || Look for the 0.3x versions
|}

=== Filters ===

=== Tripods / Monopods ===
My current favorite tripod for shooting panoramas is the manfrotto 755b.

[http://www.47stphoto.com/bomdalvitr.html Image at a store]

The tripod is extremely strong, tall, and incorporates a ball head that can be used to quickly level a head - though this does require somewhat of a 'knack' to get the hang of.

Essentially, for just over $200 you can get a really large, strong tripod, with levelling feature. Only downside for me is the weight, but I cannot justify spending 3x the price to get a carbon fibre version!

Stu

Monopods have a couple of advantages. One advantage: Height - many have several sections. They are most popular with one-shot lens users. You can extend the monopod fully, set the self timer on the camera, and position the camera 10' off the ground (held at arms length above your head.) Takes practice, but it works. You'll want to invest in a monopod level. These attach to the monopod leg, kind of like the level used on 4x4' when you build a deck. Another advantage is portability, plus some monopods serve double duty as trekking poles. They are difficult to use for multiple shots, as one can wobble the monopod left, right, back, and forth between shots. It's just like mounting your camera on top of a giant joy-stick! --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:14, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Panoramic Heads ===
When combining multiple images, it is critical that each image be captured from the same point of view. This [[Nodal Point|optical center]] of the lens is commonly called the nodal point, although it is more correctly referred to as the entrance pupil. The nodal point is located inside the lens; in the wide angle lenses used for panoramic imaging, the entrance pupil tends to be near the front of the lens.

A standard tripod mount rotates the camera around the mounting screw in the camera; the simplest nodal point adapter simply shifts the camera back to move the lens's nodal point over the axis of rotation. [[Heads|More complicated brackets]] allow the camera to rotate vertically around the nodal point around the nodal point as well as horizontally.

=== Flashes ===
Currently content still on [[Flashes]] page

=== Miscellaneous ===

=== Portable Storage Devices ===
These come in several varieties, a broad price range, and with varying options. Kind of like purchasing a VW Beetle vs a Porsche � either can get you from point A to point B. Basically all models perform the same function: automatically move images from your memory card to the storage device. Just stick in the card and like a digital vacuum, it sucks the images from the card to the device. That is the BASIC function. The type of cards it reads, hard drive space, battery life, simple LCD display vs full color display � the features go on and on. You can preview images on some models, display them on TV via built-in jacks, watch movies, play music. It all depends on your budget! Google �Portable Storage Device� or search on Amazon or eBay. You�ll get an idea what�s available. Not to long ago there were only a couple of models available. Now you can find dozens! Bottom line: If you take a lot of photos, you�ll eventually need one of these! --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:11, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

Click to see an alphabetical list of panorama related [[hardware manufacturers]].

Hardware

2006-07-15T20:23:58Z

Geoff Mather: /* Lenses */

== hardware ==

=== What type of computer is usable ===
Almost any, as long as it is running some version of Windows, Mac OS, Mac OS X or Linux.
We recommend you to use a reasonably fast computer, since rewarping images and blending them are quite CPU intensive. A slower computer just means a longer wait, though.

'''Memory Matters'''

While a fast processor will speed up the creation of digital panoramas, memory seems to be the single most important hardware requirement. I've stitched 6 and 8 frame panorama's together with as little as 512MB when I had a 3MPix camera, but with my new 8MPix, I can't process more than 3 images with 512 MB. Jumping up to 1 GB of RAM let's me build and manipulate huge digital files. Remember, image manipulation software nearly always stores images in memory uncompressed, so my 3MPix images (2048 x 1536) take up 24MB of RAM. [[User:Jeff|Jeff]] 21:33, 7 Dec 2004 (EST)

However, if you have a large enough hard disk 1 GB of RAM seems enough for all tasks. Both [[Photoshop]] and [[PTStitcher]] use the hard disk heavily. I managed to stitch a 30 layer [[Full 16 bit workflow|16 bit]] 4,000x50,000 pixel panorama on my 1GB Athlon 1400 machine. It took forever and a day not only to stitch but to load into Photoshop, too. Photoshop used 23 GB of scratch disk but work was suprisingly smooth. [[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 05:51, 30 Apr 2005 (EDT)

One caveat - dual hard drives can markedly improve performance, at least in MS Windows machines. If the windows swap file is located on the same drive as the application scratch file, say photoshop, then Windows and Photoshop are battling over hard drive access. Locating your scratch disk on a different PHYSICAL hard drive helps considerably. If you have three drives, that's even better. One for Windows and software, one for your scratch disk (and more software, or storage) and a third for your working files. You can have a performance increase of 20% or more. --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:09, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Cameras ===
Currently content still on [[Camera Kits]] and [[Cameras]] pages

An interesting alternative for cheap fisheye photography: [http://shop.lomography.com/fisheyecamera/ Lomo Fisheye Camera]: 35mm film camera with a 170� fisheye lens

=== Camera Memory ===
Long gone are the days with the 1 meg memory card that came with my first digital camera. Heck, the 64 meg card that came with my last Nikon is now next to useless! I find myself with a collection of cards, from 512 meg up to 1 gig, and I�m looking at the 2 gig cards. With my Coolpix 8700 in Raw mode, the 1 gig card holds around 65 photos! So plan accordingly. You also need to consider memory card speed. A slow card can take several seconds to save a high quality image, compared to a higher speed card taking under a second. Just remember: faster card = higher cost. For situations where you can afford to wait while an image saves, save 25% and get a slower card. But if you need faster save times, you�ll be happier with the faster speed cards. Also see Personal Storage Devices at the bottom of this page. --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:10, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Lenses ===
Narrow angle lenses (field of view < 90 degrees) are often used to create high quality panoramas for print. Fisheye lenses are more often used to create lower quality panoramas for web display, etc. In order to assist with setting up your lens and camera there is a [[Nodal Point Database]] with relevant dimensions.

==== Popular narrow angle lenses ====
Any fixed focal length lens would be best for maximum quality. Most zoom lenses suffer from non-standard edge light fall-off ([[vignetting]]) and from heavy lens flare. Consumer zoom lenses often perform badly in terms of contrast, sharpness, maximum aperture and [[chromatic aberration]].

==== Popular wide angle lenses ====
{|
| [http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3236&navigator=1 Sigma 12-24mm f4.5-5.6] || Super wide-angle zoom lens with a 84-122 degree field of view on film SLR cameras
|-
| [http://www.nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=5&productNr=2144 Nikkor 12-24mm f/4 DX] || Super wide-angle zoom lens with a 61-99 degree field of view for Nikon mount DSLR cameras
|}

==== Popular fisheye lenses ====
{|
| [http://www.geocities.com/belshop/content2.html Peleng 8mm/f3.5] || fisheye lens covering a 180 degrees field of view
|-
| [http://www.sigma-photo.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3255&navigator=4 Sigma 8mm/f4] || fisheye lens covering a 180 degrees field of view
|-
| [http://www.nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=5&productNr=2148 Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8 DX] || full frame fisheye (180 degrees diagnonally) for Nikon mount DSLR cameras
|-
| [http://www.rugift.com/photocameras/zenitar_m_fisheye_lens.htm Zenitar 16mm f/2.8] || full frame fisheye (180 degrees diagnonally for 35mm film or full frame sensor) for various SLR and DSLR cameras (manual operation)
|}

==== Fisheye conversion lenses ====
{|
| [http://raynox.co.jp/english/dcr/dcrcf185pro/index.htm Raynox DCR-CF185PRO] || 180 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm
|-
| [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/fc-e9/ Nikon FC-E9] || ~185-190 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm (this is '''not''' only for Nikon, I used this with my Canon PS A75.. you need a [http://www.hama.de/portal/articleId*5592/action*2563 52mm >> 46mm adapter ring].. with that it works great with Canon or whatever you want) An [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/list.htm adapter ring] is required for ALL Nikon cameras, and can make the setup rather large [http://www.panotools.info/mediawiki/index.php?title=Image:Fce9.jpg (almost a foot long!)]
|-
| [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/fc-e8/ Nikon FC-E8] || ~180 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm. [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/list.htm adapter ring required]
|}

There are also many small and cheap semi fisheye conversion lenses available from [http://raynox.co.jp Raynox] if you have a small digital camera and quality is not the most important issue:
{|
| [http://raynox.co.jp/english/video/egvideoindex.htm Raynox video camera index] || Look for the 0.3x versions
|}

=== Filters ===

=== Tripods / Monopods ===
My current favorite tripod for shooting panoramas is the manfrotto 755b.

[http://www.47stphoto.com/bomdalvitr.html Image at a store]

The tripod is extremely strong, tall, and incorporates a ball head that can be used to quickly level a head - though this does require somewhat of a 'knack' to get the hang of.

Essentially, for just over $200 you can get a really large, strong tripod, with levelling feature. Only downside for me is the weight, but I cannot justify spending 3x the price to get a carbon fibre version!

Stu

Monopods have a couple of advantages. One advantage: Height - many have several sections. They are most popular with one-shot lens users. You can extend the monopod fully, set the self timer on the camera, and position the camera 10' off the ground (held at arms length above your head.) Takes practice, but it works. You'll want to invest in a monopod level. These attach to the monopod leg, kind of like the level used on 4x4' when you build a deck. Another advantage is portability, plus some monopods serve double duty as trekking poles. They are difficult to use for multiple shots, as one can wobble the monopod left, right, back, and forth between shots. It's just like mounting your camera on top of a giant joy-stick! --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:14, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Panoramic Heads ===
When combining multiple images, it is critical that each image be captured from the same point of view. This [[Nodal Point|optical center]] of the lens is commonly called the nodal point, although it is more correctly referred to as the entrance pupil. The nodal point is located inside the lens; in the wide angle lenses used for panoramic imaging, the entrance pupil tends to be near the front of the lens.

A standard tripod mount rotates the camera around the mounting screw in the camera; the simplest nodal point adapter simply shifts the camera back to move the lens's nodal point over the axis of rotation. [[Heads|More complicated brackets]] allow the camera to rotate vertically around the nodal point around the nodal point as well as horizontally.

=== Flashes ===
Currently content still on [[Flashes]] page

=== Miscellaneous ===

=== Portable Storage Devices ===
These come in several varieties, a broad price range, and with varying options. Kind of like purchasing a VW Beetle vs a Porsche � either can get you from point A to point B. Basically all models perform the same function: automatically move images from your memory card to the storage device. Just stick in the card and like a digital vacuum, it sucks the images from the card to the device. That is the BASIC function. The type of cards it reads, hard drive space, battery life, simple LCD display vs full color display � the features go on and on. You can preview images on some models, display them on TV via built-in jacks, watch movies, play music. It all depends on your budget! Google �Portable Storage Device� or search on Amazon or eBay. You�ll get an idea what�s available. Not to long ago there were only a couple of models available. Now you can find dozens! Bottom line: If you take a lot of photos, you�ll eventually need one of these! --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:11, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

Click to see an alphabetical list of panorama related [[hardware manufacturers]].

Hardware

2006-07-15T20:23:17Z

Geoff Mather: /* Lenses */

== hardware ==

=== What type of computer is usable ===
Almost any, as long as it is running some version of Windows, Mac OS, Mac OS X or Linux.
We recommend you to use a reasonably fast computer, since rewarping images and blending them are quite CPU intensive. A slower computer just means a longer wait, though.

'''Memory Matters'''

While a fast processor will speed up the creation of digital panoramas, memory seems to be the single most important hardware requirement. I've stitched 6 and 8 frame panorama's together with as little as 512MB when I had a 3MPix camera, but with my new 8MPix, I can't process more than 3 images with 512 MB. Jumping up to 1 GB of RAM let's me build and manipulate huge digital files. Remember, image manipulation software nearly always stores images in memory uncompressed, so my 3MPix images (2048 x 1536) take up 24MB of RAM. [[User:Jeff|Jeff]] 21:33, 7 Dec 2004 (EST)

However, if you have a large enough hard disk 1 GB of RAM seems enough for all tasks. Both [[Photoshop]] and [[PTStitcher]] use the hard disk heavily. I managed to stitch a 30 layer [[Full 16 bit workflow|16 bit]] 4,000x50,000 pixel panorama on my 1GB Athlon 1400 machine. It took forever and a day not only to stitch but to load into Photoshop, too. Photoshop used 23 GB of scratch disk but work was suprisingly smooth. [[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 05:51, 30 Apr 2005 (EDT)

One caveat - dual hard drives can markedly improve performance, at least in MS Windows machines. If the windows swap file is located on the same drive as the application scratch file, say photoshop, then Windows and Photoshop are battling over hard drive access. Locating your scratch disk on a different PHYSICAL hard drive helps considerably. If you have three drives, that's even better. One for Windows and software, one for your scratch disk (and more software, or storage) and a third for your working files. You can have a performance increase of 20% or more. --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:09, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Cameras ===
Currently content still on [[Camera Kits]] and [[Cameras]] pages

An interesting alternative for cheap fisheye photography: [http://shop.lomography.com/fisheyecamera/ Lomo Fisheye Camera]: 35mm film camera with a 170� fisheye lens

=== Camera Memory ===
Long gone are the days with the 1 meg memory card that came with my first digital camera. Heck, the 64 meg card that came with my last Nikon is now next to useless! I find myself with a collection of cards, from 512 meg up to 1 gig, and I�m looking at the 2 gig cards. With my Coolpix 8700 in Raw mode, the 1 gig card holds around 65 photos! So plan accordingly. You also need to consider memory card speed. A slow card can take several seconds to save a high quality image, compared to a higher speed card taking under a second. Just remember: faster card = higher cost. For situations where you can afford to wait while an image saves, save 25% and get a slower card. But if you need faster save times, you�ll be happier with the faster speed cards. Also see Personal Storage Devices at the bottom of this page. --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:10, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Lenses ===
Narrow angle lenses (field of view < 90 degrees) are often used to create high quality panoramas for print. Fisheye lenses are more often used to create lower quality panoramas for web display, etc. In order to assist with setting up your lens and camera there is a [Nodal Point Database] with relevant dimensions.

==== Popular narrow angle lenses ====
Any fixed focal length lens would be best for maximum quality. Most zoom lenses suffer from non-standard edge light fall-off ([[vignetting]]) and from heavy lens flare. Consumer zoom lenses often perform badly in terms of contrast, sharpness, maximum aperture and [[chromatic aberration]].

==== Popular wide angle lenses ====
{|
| [http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3236&navigator=1 Sigma 12-24mm f4.5-5.6] || Super wide-angle zoom lens with a 84-122 degree field of view on film SLR cameras
|-
| [http://www.nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=5&productNr=2144 Nikkor 12-24mm f/4 DX] || Super wide-angle zoom lens with a 61-99 degree field of view for Nikon mount DSLR cameras
|}

==== Popular fisheye lenses ====
{|
| [http://www.geocities.com/belshop/content2.html Peleng 8mm/f3.5] || fisheye lens covering a 180 degrees field of view
|-
| [http://www.sigma-photo.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3255&navigator=4 Sigma 8mm/f4] || fisheye lens covering a 180 degrees field of view
|-
| [http://www.nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=5&productNr=2148 Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8 DX] || full frame fisheye (180 degrees diagnonally) for Nikon mount DSLR cameras
|-
| [http://www.rugift.com/photocameras/zenitar_m_fisheye_lens.htm Zenitar 16mm f/2.8] || full frame fisheye (180 degrees diagnonally for 35mm film or full frame sensor) for various SLR and DSLR cameras (manual operation)
|}

==== Fisheye conversion lenses ====
{|
| [http://raynox.co.jp/english/dcr/dcrcf185pro/index.htm Raynox DCR-CF185PRO] || 180 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm
|-
| [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/fc-e9/ Nikon FC-E9] || ~185-190 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm (this is '''not''' only for Nikon, I used this with my Canon PS A75.. you need a [http://www.hama.de/portal/articleId*5592/action*2563 52mm >> 46mm adapter ring].. with that it works great with Canon or whatever you want) An [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/list.htm adapter ring] is required for ALL Nikon cameras, and can make the setup rather large [http://www.panotools.info/mediawiki/index.php?title=Image:Fce9.jpg (almost a foot long!)]
|-
| [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/fc-e8/ Nikon FC-E8] || ~180 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm. [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/list.htm adapter ring required]
|}

There are also many small and cheap semi fisheye conversion lenses available from [http://raynox.co.jp Raynox] if you have a small digital camera and quality is not the most important issue:
{|
| [http://raynox.co.jp/english/video/egvideoindex.htm Raynox video camera index] || Look for the 0.3x versions
|}

=== Filters ===

=== Tripods / Monopods ===
My current favorite tripod for shooting panoramas is the manfrotto 755b.

[http://www.47stphoto.com/bomdalvitr.html Image at a store]

The tripod is extremely strong, tall, and incorporates a ball head that can be used to quickly level a head - though this does require somewhat of a 'knack' to get the hang of.

Essentially, for just over $200 you can get a really large, strong tripod, with levelling feature. Only downside for me is the weight, but I cannot justify spending 3x the price to get a carbon fibre version!

Stu

Monopods have a couple of advantages. One advantage: Height - many have several sections. They are most popular with one-shot lens users. You can extend the monopod fully, set the self timer on the camera, and position the camera 10' off the ground (held at arms length above your head.) Takes practice, but it works. You'll want to invest in a monopod level. These attach to the monopod leg, kind of like the level used on 4x4' when you build a deck. Another advantage is portability, plus some monopods serve double duty as trekking poles. They are difficult to use for multiple shots, as one can wobble the monopod left, right, back, and forth between shots. It's just like mounting your camera on top of a giant joy-stick! --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:14, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Panoramic Heads ===
When combining multiple images, it is critical that each image be captured from the same point of view. This [[Nodal Point|optical center]] of the lens is commonly called the nodal point, although it is more correctly referred to as the entrance pupil. The nodal point is located inside the lens; in the wide angle lenses used for panoramic imaging, the entrance pupil tends to be near the front of the lens.

A standard tripod mount rotates the camera around the mounting screw in the camera; the simplest nodal point adapter simply shifts the camera back to move the lens's nodal point over the axis of rotation. [[Heads|More complicated brackets]] allow the camera to rotate vertically around the nodal point around the nodal point as well as horizontally.

=== Flashes ===
Currently content still on [[Flashes]] page

=== Miscellaneous ===

=== Portable Storage Devices ===
These come in several varieties, a broad price range, and with varying options. Kind of like purchasing a VW Beetle vs a Porsche � either can get you from point A to point B. Basically all models perform the same function: automatically move images from your memory card to the storage device. Just stick in the card and like a digital vacuum, it sucks the images from the card to the device. That is the BASIC function. The type of cards it reads, hard drive space, battery life, simple LCD display vs full color display � the features go on and on. You can preview images on some models, display them on TV via built-in jacks, watch movies, play music. It all depends on your budget! Google �Portable Storage Device� or search on Amazon or eBay. You�ll get an idea what�s available. Not to long ago there were only a couple of models available. Now you can find dozens! Bottom line: If you take a lot of photos, you�ll eventually need one of these! --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:11, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

Click to see an alphabetical list of panorama related [[hardware manufacturers]].

Hardware

2006-07-15T20:12:29Z

Geoff Mather: /* Lenses */

== hardware ==

=== What type of computer is usable ===
Almost any, as long as it is running some version of Windows, Mac OS, Mac OS X or Linux.
We recommend you to use a reasonably fast computer, since rewarping images and blending them are quite CPU intensive. A slower computer just means a longer wait, though.

'''Memory Matters'''

While a fast processor will speed up the creation of digital panoramas, memory seems to be the single most important hardware requirement. I've stitched 6 and 8 frame panorama's together with as little as 512MB when I had a 3MPix camera, but with my new 8MPix, I can't process more than 3 images with 512 MB. Jumping up to 1 GB of RAM let's me build and manipulate huge digital files. Remember, image manipulation software nearly always stores images in memory uncompressed, so my 3MPix images (2048 x 1536) take up 24MB of RAM. [[User:Jeff|Jeff]] 21:33, 7 Dec 2004 (EST)

However, if you have a large enough hard disk 1 GB of RAM seems enough for all tasks. Both [[Photoshop]] and [[PTStitcher]] use the hard disk heavily. I managed to stitch a 30 layer [[Full 16 bit workflow|16 bit]] 4,000x50,000 pixel panorama on my 1GB Athlon 1400 machine. It took forever and a day not only to stitch but to load into Photoshop, too. Photoshop used 23 GB of scratch disk but work was suprisingly smooth. [[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 05:51, 30 Apr 2005 (EDT)

One caveat - dual hard drives can markedly improve performance, at least in MS Windows machines. If the windows swap file is located on the same drive as the application scratch file, say photoshop, then Windows and Photoshop are battling over hard drive access. Locating your scratch disk on a different PHYSICAL hard drive helps considerably. If you have three drives, that's even better. One for Windows and software, one for your scratch disk (and more software, or storage) and a third for your working files. You can have a performance increase of 20% or more. --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:09, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Cameras ===
Currently content still on [[Camera Kits]] and [[Cameras]] pages

An interesting alternative for cheap fisheye photography: [http://shop.lomography.com/fisheyecamera/ Lomo Fisheye Camera]: 35mm film camera with a 170� fisheye lens

=== Camera Memory ===
Long gone are the days with the 1 meg memory card that came with my first digital camera. Heck, the 64 meg card that came with my last Nikon is now next to useless! I find myself with a collection of cards, from 512 meg up to 1 gig, and I�m looking at the 2 gig cards. With my Coolpix 8700 in Raw mode, the 1 gig card holds around 65 photos! So plan accordingly. You also need to consider memory card speed. A slow card can take several seconds to save a high quality image, compared to a higher speed card taking under a second. Just remember: faster card = higher cost. For situations where you can afford to wait while an image saves, save 25% and get a slower card. But if you need faster save times, you�ll be happier with the faster speed cards. Also see Personal Storage Devices at the bottom of this page. --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:10, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Lenses ===
Narrow angle lenses (field of view < 90 degrees) are often used to create high quality panoramas for print. Fisheye lenses are more often used to create lower quality panoramas for web display, etc. In order to assist with setting up your lens and camera there is a [[Nodal Point Database]] with relevant dimensions.

==== Popular narrow angle lenses ====
Any fixed focal length lens would be best for maximum quality. Most zoom lenses suffer from non-standard edge light fall-off ([[vignetting]]) and from heavy lens flare. Consumer zoom lenses often perform badly in terms of contrast, sharpness, maximum aperture and [[chromatic aberration]].

==== Popular wide angle lenses ====
{|
| [http://www.sigmaphoto.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3236&navigator=1 Sigma 12-24mm f4.5-5.6] || Super wide-angle zoom lens with a 84-122 degree field of view on film SLR cameras
|-
| [http://www.nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=5&productNr=2144 Nikkor 12-24mm f/4 DX] || Super wide-angle zoom lens with a 61-99 degree field of view for Nikon mount DSLR cameras
|}

==== Popular fisheye lenses ====
{|
| [http://www.geocities.com/belshop/content2.html Peleng 8mm/f3.5] || fisheye lens covering a 180 degrees field of view
|-
| [http://www.sigma-photo.com/lenses/lenses_all_details.asp?id=3255&navigator=4 Sigma 8mm/f4] || fisheye lens covering a 180 degrees field of view
|-
| [http://www.nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=5&productNr=2148 Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8 DX] || full frame fisheye (180 degrees diagnonally) for Nikon mount DSLR cameras
|-
| [http://www.rugift.com/photocameras/zenitar_m_fisheye_lens.htm Zenitar 16mm f/2.8] || full frame fisheye (180 degrees diagnonally for 35mm film or full frame sensor) for various SLR and DSLR cameras (manual operation)
|}

==== Fisheye conversion lenses ====
{|
| [http://raynox.co.jp/english/dcr/dcrcf185pro/index.htm Raynox DCR-CF185PRO] || 180 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm
|-
| [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/fc-e9/ Nikon FC-E9] || ~185-190 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm (this is '''not''' only for Nikon, I used this with my Canon PS A75.. you need a [http://www.hama.de/portal/articleId*5592/action*2563 52mm >> 46mm adapter ring].. with that it works great with Canon or whatever you want) An [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/list.htm adapter ring] is required for ALL Nikon cameras, and can make the setup rather large [http://www.panotools.info/mediawiki/index.php?title=Image:Fce9.jpg (almost a foot long!)]
|-
| [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/fc-e8/ Nikon FC-E8] || ~180 degrees field of view with a standard lens at 35mm. [http://nikonimaging.com/global/products/accessory/converter/list.htm adapter ring required]
|}

There are also many small and cheap semi fisheye conversion lenses available from [http://raynox.co.jp Raynox] if you have a small digital camera and quality is not the most important issue:
{|
| [http://raynox.co.jp/english/video/egvideoindex.htm Raynox video camera index] || Look for the 0.3x versions
|}

=== Filters ===

=== Tripods / Monopods ===
My current favorite tripod for shooting panoramas is the manfrotto 755b.

[http://www.47stphoto.com/bomdalvitr.html Image at a store]

The tripod is extremely strong, tall, and incorporates a ball head that can be used to quickly level a head - though this does require somewhat of a 'knack' to get the hang of.

Essentially, for just over $200 you can get a really large, strong tripod, with levelling feature. Only downside for me is the weight, but I cannot justify spending 3x the price to get a carbon fibre version!

Stu

Monopods have a couple of advantages. One advantage: Height - many have several sections. They are most popular with one-shot lens users. You can extend the monopod fully, set the self timer on the camera, and position the camera 10' off the ground (held at arms length above your head.) Takes practice, but it works. You'll want to invest in a monopod level. These attach to the monopod leg, kind of like the level used on 4x4' when you build a deck. Another advantage is portability, plus some monopods serve double duty as trekking poles. They are difficult to use for multiple shots, as one can wobble the monopod left, right, back, and forth between shots. It's just like mounting your camera on top of a giant joy-stick! --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:14, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

=== Panoramic Heads ===
When combining multiple images, it is critical that each image be captured from the same point of view. This [[Nodal Point|optical center]] of the lens is commonly called the nodal point, although it is more correctly referred to as the entrance pupil. The nodal point is located inside the lens; in the wide angle lenses used for panoramic imaging, the entrance pupil tends to be near the front of the lens.

A standard tripod mount rotates the camera around the mounting screw in the camera; the simplest nodal point adapter simply shifts the camera back to move the lens's nodal point over the axis of rotation. [[Heads|More complicated brackets]] allow the camera to rotate vertically around the nodal point around the nodal point as well as horizontally.

=== Flashes ===
Currently content still on [[Flashes]] page

=== Miscellaneous ===

=== Portable Storage Devices ===
These come in several varieties, a broad price range, and with varying options. Kind of like purchasing a VW Beetle vs a Porsche � either can get you from point A to point B. Basically all models perform the same function: automatically move images from your memory card to the storage device. Just stick in the card and like a digital vacuum, it sucks the images from the card to the device. That is the BASIC function. The type of cards it reads, hard drive space, battery life, simple LCD display vs full color display � the features go on and on. You can preview images on some models, display them on TV via built-in jacks, watch movies, play music. It all depends on your budget! Google �Portable Storage Device� or search on Amazon or eBay. You�ll get an idea what�s available. Not to long ago there were only a couple of models available. Now you can find dozens! Bottom line: If you take a lot of photos, you�ll eventually need one of these! --[[User:Add360.com|Add360.com]] 03:11, 7 Nov 2005 (EST)

Click to see an alphabetical list of panorama related [[hardware manufacturers]].