PanoTools.org Wiki - User contributions [en]

Fisheye Projection

2013-05-07T19:46:07Z

Erik Krause: clarified panotools fisheye mapping

{{Glossary|A projection where the distance from the centre of the image to a point is proportional to the equivalent spatial angle.}}
[[Image:big_ben_circ_fisheye.jpg|frame|right|Circular Fisheye projection, with permission from Ben Kreunen]]
[[Image:big_ben_ff_fisheye.jpg|frame|right|Fullframe Fisheye projection, with permission from Ben Kreunen]]

This is a class of [[Projections|projections]] for mapping a portion of the surface of a sphere to a flat image, typically a camera's film or detector plane. In a fisheye projection the distance from the centre of the image to a point is close to proportional to the true angle of separation.

Commonly there are two types of fisheye distinguished: circular [[fisheyes]] and fullframe [[fisheyes]]. However, both follow the same projection geometrics. The only difference is one of [[Field of View]]: for a circular fisheye the circular image fits (more or less) completely in the frame, leaving blank areas in the corner. For the full frame variety, the image is over-filled by the circular fisheye image, leaving no blank space on the film or detector. A circular fisheye can be made full frame if you use it with a smaller sensor/film size (and vice versa), or by zooming a fisheye adaptor on a zoom lens.

There is no single fisheye projection, but instead there are a class of projection transformation all referred to as ''fisheye'' by various lens manufacturers, with names like ''equisolid angle projection'', or ''equidistance fisheye''. Less common are traditional spherical projections which map to circular images, such as the [http://mathworld.wolfram.com/OrthographicProjection.html orthographic] (lenses commonly designated ''OP'') or [[Stereographic Projection|stereographic]] projections. Luckily, [[Panorama tools]] and [[Hugin]] can deal with most of these mentioned projections.

'''<math>\theta\,</math>''' is the angle in rad between a point in the real world and the optical axis, which goes from the center of the image through the center of the lens, <math>f</math> is the focal length of the lens and <math>R</math> is radial position of a point on the image on the film or sensor.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! projection
! math
! real lenses, matching this projection
|-
| equidistant fisheye
| <math>R=f\cdot\theta</math>
| e.g. Peleng 8mm f/3.5 Fisheye <br>This is the ideal fisheye projection panotools uses internally
|-
| stereographic
| <math> R=2f\cdot \tan\left(\frac{\theta}{2}\right)</math>
| e.g. Samyang 8 mm f/3.5
|-
| orthographic
| <math> R=f\cdot \sin\left(\theta\right)</math>
| e.g. Yasuhara - MADOKA 180 circle fisheye lens
|-
| equisolid
(equal-area fisheye)
| <math> R=2f\cdot \sin\left(\frac{\theta}{2}\right)</math>
| e. g. Sigma 8mm f/4.0 AF EX, (also convex mirror)
|-
| Thoby fisheye
| <math> R=k_1\cdot f \cdot \sin\left(k_2\cdot\theta\right)</math>
with <math>k_1=1.47</math> and <math>k_2=0.713</math>
| e. g. AF DX Fisheye-Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8G ED
(empirical found math for this lens)
|}

So for example 90 degrees, which would be the maximum
theta of a lens with 180 degree [[Field of View]], f=8mm, equisolid mapping, you get
R = 11.3mm, which is the radius of the image circle.

Btw, a rectilinear lens has a mapping
<math>R=f*tan(\theta)\,</math>

More information on [[fisheyes]] and their distortions from [http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/field_of_view.html Bob Atkins Photography]

Panotools fisheye mapping mentioned by [[Helmut Dersch]] in http://www.panotools.org/mailarchive/msg/6864#msg6864

(Content partly based on a mail by Helmut Dersch which can be found at W.J. Markerink's <strike>[http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/fishyfaq.htm page about fisheye analysis]</strike> Link not valid anymore)
[[Category:Glossary]]

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2013-03-27T14:02:26Z

Erik Krause: pointed to moderators

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Due to heavy spamming Wiki account creation is disabled for the time being, sorry for inconvenience. To prove you are a real, living person but not for publication, please answer the following as best you can:

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* Type(s) of camera/lens used?
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Address your request to the [mailto:PanoToolsNG-owner@yahoogroups.com moderators list]. You'll get an email directly from the wiki as soon as a moderator finds time to process your request.

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2013-03-26T17:45:33Z

Erik Krause:

You must have cookies enabled to log in to {{SITENAME}}.

Due to heavy spamming Wiki account creation is disabled for the time being, sorry for inconvenience. To prove you are a real, living person but not for publication, please answer the following as best you can:

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* What do you want to edit?

Address your request to [mailto:erik.krause@gmx.de Erik Krause]. You'll get an email directly from the wiki as soon as a moderator finds time to process your request.

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2013-03-26T17:32:23Z

Erik Krause: added user name

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2013-03-26T11:00:31Z

Erik Krause: directed new users to my mail address

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2013-03-26T10:34:47Z

Erik Krause: Reverted edits by Erik Krause (talk) to last revision by MediaWiki default

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2013-03-26T10:29:13Z

Erik Krause: Created page with "Log in / apply for account"

Entrance Pupil Database

2013-03-23T12:46:10Z

Erik Krause: /* Tripod Mount Measurements */ simplified, de-centered

Entrance Pupil Database

2013-03-23T12:33:40Z

Erik Krause: /* Entrance Pupil Measurements */ de-centered

Wouldn't it be great if everyone entered their values for their [[No-parallax point| NPP / Nodal Point / Entrance Pupil]] for lens and camera combinations.
Some searching on the web will find a lot of people saying they want to start to create a database of some kind, but have not seen anything substantial so far (correct me if I am wrong).

Please enter your own values if they are not listed.

Thanks,
--[[User:Korffr|Richard Korff]] 11:12, 13 May 2005 (EDT)

To cater for all the different camera bodies and lenses, the tables have been split into 3 parts:

*The '''[[#Tripod Mount Measurements|first table]]''' shows the position of the tripod mount in relation to the lens axis. This is easy to measure and is dependent only on the camera body.
*The '''[[#Entrance Pupil Measurements|second table]]''' shows the actual entrance pupil distance which is only dependent on the lens itself. Note that the [[No-parallax point|NPP]] for [[Special issues with fisheye lenses|fisheye]] lenses is not constant over the image circle's [[Field of View|FoV]], so you will sometimes find different NPP values depending on the angle where your images overlap.
*The '''[[#Number of pics for 360°|third table]]''' shows the number if pics neccessay for a full 360° coverage and the rotation angle between shots.

Use as much as possible actual measurements rather than the reading on your [[panorama head]], unless your are sure these are the same.

To enter a line for your combination, edit the page by clicking edit at the top of the screen (you may need to create an account or sign-in first), and edit the table below.

== Tripod Mount Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left" valign="top" class="wikitable sortable"
|+
! '''Camera'''
! '''Tripod mount off-center (C)'''
! '''Tripod mount height (H)'''
! '''Tripod mount length (L1)'''
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
!<div style="width: 200px; height:150px"> </div><hr>Use the correct name of your camera. For digital camera's, please use the name as mentioned at [http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs.asp dpreview]. || [[Image:EPDB-off-center.jpg|Tripod mount off-center]]<hr>Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the the middle of the tripod mount to the lens axis (0 if the tripod mount is over the centre of the lens) || [[Image:EPDB-height.jpg|Tripod mount height]]<hr>Facing the camera, the distance from the base of the camera to the center of the lens || [[Image:EPDB-length1.jpg|Tripod mount length]]<hr>Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the middle of the tripod mount to the base of the lens base, or base for adaptor tube. For fixed lens camera's which do not allow use of adaptors this column is not applicable.
|-
|Canon EOS 5D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |42 mm || align="center" | 37,5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 5D MKII || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 43.5 mm, 90 mm w/grip || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 7D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42 mm || align="center" | 37.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 10D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42 mm || align="center" | 31.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 20D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 40 mm || align="center" | 36.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 40D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 60D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 40.5 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 400D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-Canon EOS 400D with BG-E3 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 81 mm || align="center" | 33 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel (EOS Digital Rebel) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |40 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |40 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 350D / Digital Rebel XT || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37.5 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 450D / Digital Rebel XSi || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 35 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 500D / Digital Rebel X1i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 550D / Digital Rebel T2i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 39 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 600D / Digital Rebel T3i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 40 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 650D / Digital Rebel T4i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 41 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 1000D / Digital Rebel XS || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37 mm || align="center" | 39 mm

|-
|Canon G9 || align="center" | 12 mm || align="center" | 29 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon PowerShot A630 || align="center" | 15 mm || align="center" | 28 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon PowerShot A710 IS || align="center" | 21 mm || align="center" | 26.5 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon PowerShot S80 || align="center" | 18 mm || align="center" | 25 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Fujifilm FinePix S7000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 32.8 mm || align="center" | 69mm + 37mm(Adapt.Tube)=106mm
|-
|Konica Minolta Maxxum 7D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 41 mm || align="center" | 36 mm
|-
|Nikon C8800 || align="center" | 19.1 mm || align="center" | 67.9 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Nikon D2H (+D2Hs/D2X/D2Xs?) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 79 mm || align="center" | 29.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D40 (+D40x?) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 42 mm
|-
|Nikon D60 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 42 mm
|-
|Nikon D70 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 52 mm || align="center" | 36 mm
|-
|Nikon D80 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42.8 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D90 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42.8 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D100 with MB-D100 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 33.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D200 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 47 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D200 with MB-D200 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | ~33 mm
|-
|Nikon D300 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 47.2 mm || align="center" | 42.4 mm
|-
|Nikon D300 with MB-D10 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 90.2 mm || align="center" | 31.4 mm
|-
|Nikon D700 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 50 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D700 with MB-D10 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D800, D800E || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 50 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D800, D800E + MB-D12 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D3000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 35.6 mm || align="center" | 42.4 mm
|-
|Nikon D7000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 43 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D7000 with MB-D11|| align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 85.8 mm || align="center" | 25 mm
|-
|Nikon D3X || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 76.9 mm || align="center" | 28.0 mm
|-
|Nikon D5000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42.8 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Pentax *ist DS || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 43 mm
|-
|Pentax K10D/K20D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 41.6 mm || align="center" | 37.2 mm
|-
|Pentax K-7/K-5 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 38.2 mm || align="center" | 41.6 mm
|-
|Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 || align="center" | 21.5 mm || align="center" | 27.7 mm || align="center" | 28.9 mm
|-
|Sony Alpha A100 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37 mm || align="center" | 35 mm
|-
|Sony SLT-A33/55 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 31 mm
|-
|Sony NEX-7 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 32 mm || align="center" | 20.5 mm
|}

<br style="clear:both;">
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>

== Entrance Pupil Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" class="wikitable sortable"
|+
! '''Lens'''
! '''Focal Length'''
! '''Entrance Pupil Length (L2)'''
|-valign="top"
!<div style="height:150px;"> </div><hr>Enter the exact lens name, or if you are using a camera with a fixed lens the name of your camera as mentioned at [http://www.dpreview.com/products/cameras DPreview].||<div style="height:150px;"> </div><hr> ||[[Image:EPDB-length2.jpg|Entrance Pupil Length]]<hr>Facing the side of the lens, the distance from the base of the lens to the Entrance Pupil. A negative value means the entrance pupil is outside the lens, in the camera body.Such is the case with many telephoto lenses. The lens base is the
|-
| Canon EF-S 10-22mm || 10mm || 66mm
|-
| Canon EF 15mm || 15mm || 45mm at F11 focus at 1m
|-
| Canon EF 16-35 mm || 16mm || 79mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || 17mm || 71mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || 28mm || 69mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || 40mm || 72mm
|-
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || 17mm || 75.5mm
|-
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || 20mm || 71mm
|-
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || 28mm || 59.5mm
|-
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || 35mm || 52mm
|-
| Canon 18-55mm (which version?) || 18mm || 47mm
|-
| Canon 18-55mm || 24mm || 23mm
|-
| Canon 18-55mm || 35mm || 45mm
|-
| Canon 18-55mm || 55mm || 55mm
|-
| Canon 24mm f/2.8 || 24mm || 28.5mm at F11 focus at 2m
|-
| Canon 24mm TSE f/3.5L II || 24mm || 86mm at F11, focus infinity at F11 mark
|-
| Canon 35mm f/2 || 35mm || 12.5mm
|-
| Canon 35mm f/2 || 35mm || 23mm at F11 and infinity at the red dot
|-
| Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 || 50mm || 17.5mm
|-
| Canon 50mm f/1.8 II || 50mm || 23mm
|-
| Canon 50mm f/2.5 macro || 50mm || 21.5mm at F11, focus infinity at red dot mark
|-
| Canon 50mm f/2.5 macro || 50mm || 30mm at F11, focus at aprox 0.56m, 0.5m at left f16 mark.
|-
| Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 || 85mm || 39mm
|-
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || 70mm || 92mm
|-
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || 100mm || 67mm
|-
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || 135mm || 53mm
|-
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || 200mm || ??
|-
| Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8 L IS USM || 200mm || 26mm
|-
| Konica Minolta 24 f/2.8 || 24mm || 21mm
|-
| Samyang 8mm f3.5 CS Fish-eye (~60°)|| 8mm || 50mm
|-
| Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC|| 14mm || 55mm
|-
| Samyang 35mm f1.4 AS UMC|| 35mm || 58mm
|-
| Sigma 70-300 (which version?) || 70mm || 83mm
|-
| Sigma 70-300 || 85mm || 70mm
|-
| Sigma 70-300 || 100mm || 45mm
|-
| Sigma 70-300 || 135mm || -30mm
|-
| Sigma 70-300 || 200mm || -30mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || 10.5mm || 45.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || 10.5mm || 46mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm Shaved (edge Null) || 10.5mm || 47.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 12-24mm || 12mm || 71.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 14mm f2.8D ED || 14mm || 48mm (Varies by angle)
|-
| Nikkor AF 16mm f2.8D Fisheye || 16mm || 48mm. (~ Suggested) Varies by 15mm: 41.3mm (at 0deg), 48mm (85deg)
|-
| Nikkor AF 18mm f2.8D || 18mm || 34mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 20mm f2.8D || 20mm || 22mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 24mm f2.8D || 24mm || 25mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 28mm f2.8D || 28mm || 22mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-55mm II|| 18mm || 70mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || 18mm || 51mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || 24mm || 44mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || 35mm || 33.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || 50mm || 24.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || 70mm || -6.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 35mm f2.0D || 35mm || 19.3mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 35mm f1.8G || 35mm || 18mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX Micro 40mm f2.8G || 40mm || 33mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 50mm f1.4D || 50mm || 6mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 50mm f1.8D || 50mm || 19mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S 50mm f1.8G || 50mm || 7mm ~
|-
| Nikkor AF 60mm f2.8D Micro || 60mm || 15mm (infinity focus)
|-
| Nikkor AF 80-200mm f2.8D ED || 80mm || 81.2mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 80-200mm f2.8D ED || 135mm || 6mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 80-200mm f2.8D ED || 200mm || -90mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 85mm f1.8D || 85mm || 10mm
|-
| Nikon 105mm f2.8D Micro || 105mm || 32mm (infinity focus)
|-
| Nikon 105mm f2.8G VR Micro-Nikkor || 105mm || 30mm (~, at infinity focus)
|-
| Nikon 105mm f2.8G VR Micro-Nikkor || 105mm || -50mm (~, at 1:1)
|-
| Nikkor AF 135mm f2D DC || 135mm || 42mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 180mm f2.8D ED || 180mm || -45mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 200mm f4D ED Micro || 200mm || 96mm (infinity focus)
|-
| Sigma 10mm f/2.8 EX DC HSM Fisheye (60° stops) || 10mm || 50mm
|-
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX || 8mm || 47.5mm / 49mm / 51mm - which one is it?
|-
| Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX || 8mm || 49.5mm
|-
| Nikon C8800 at Wide inf. (is this at the widest setting ?) || 8.9mm ?? || 75mm center of tripod mtg screw to Ent Pupil
|-
| Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 || 5.1mm || 28.5mm (but what constitutes the lens base?)
|-
| Peleng-N 8mm F3.5 || 8mm || 44mm
|-
| Opteka 0.22X UHD II FishEye || 8mm (0.22X) || 35.75mm
|-
| Tamron 90mm F2.8 Di2 Macro || 90mm || 34mm
|-
| Sigma 35mm F1.4 A HSM || 35mm || 62mm
|-
| Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM || 8mm || 73mm
|-
| Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM || 12mm || 67mm
|-
| Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM || 16mm || 66.5mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || 10mm || 62mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || 14mm || 64mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || 20mm || 68mm
|-
| Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4.5 DC macro || 17mm || 58mm
|-
| Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC || 30mm || 26.5mm
|-
| Sigma APO 50-150 2.8 II EX DC HSM || 50mm || 60mm
|-
| Sigma APO 50-150 2.8 II EX DC HSM || 70mm || 30mm
|-
| Sigma APO 50-150 2.8 II EX DC HSM || 100mm || -10mm
|-
| Sony 18-55mm E-mount || 18mm || 15.5mm
|-
| Sony 18-55mm E-mount || 24mm || 12.5mm
|-
| Sony 18-55mm E-mount || 35mm || -23.5mm
|-
| Tamron 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 || 11mm || 58.5mm
|-
| Tamron 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 || 14mm || 59.5mm
|-
| Tamron 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 || 18mm || 62.5mm
|-
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || 17mm || 56.5mm
|-
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || 24mm || 48mm
|-
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || 35mm || 40.5mm
|-
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || 50mm || 31.5mm
|-
| Tamron 28-75mm F2.8 XR DI || 28-75mm || 58.8mm
|-
| Tokina 10-17mm f3.5 DX || 10mm || 58.2mm (~ consider also the gap between L1 and L2 for some cameras)
|-
| Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 DX || 11mm || 65.6mm
|-
| Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 DX || 16mm || 67.6mm
|-
| Tokina 12-24mm f4 DX || 12mm || 60mm
|-
| Tokina 12-24mm f4 DX || 18mm || 64mm ~
|-
| Tokina 12-24mm f4 DX || 24mm || 59mm
|-
| Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 20mm f/4 || 20mm || 17.5mm
|-
| Raynox DCR-CF185PRO || Conversion lens || 80mm
|-
| Canon PowerShot A630 || 35mm (wide open) || 31mm
|-
| Canon PowerShot A710 IS || 35mm (wide open) || 32mm
|-
| Canon G9 || 7.4mm (wide) || 33.7mm from tripod screw
|-
| Canon G9 || 44.4mm (tight) || -10mm from tripod screw
|-
| Zenitar 2,8/16 || 16mm || 36mm
|-
| Pentax smc DA 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 Fisheye zoom || 10mm || 57.8mm
|-
! <Manufacturer / Lens> || <Focal Length> || <Entrance Pupil Length>
|}

<br style="clear:both;">

*To calculate the Entrance pupil distance add the Tripod Mount Length (L1) from the camera and the Entrance Pupil Length (L2) from the lens. So for example for a Canon 300d and a 10-22mm at 10mm, the total Entrance pupil distance from the tripod mount is 40mm + 66mm = 106mm

*For these '''''Focal Length''''' values the actual focus is set to infinity (<math>\infty</math>)

== Number of pics for 360° ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" rowspan="3" | '''Focal Length <br> Lens Type'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="4" | '''crop factor 1.5/1.6 '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="4" | '''Full Frame'''
|-
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Portrait '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Landscape'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Portrait '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Landscape'''
|-
|style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate
|style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate
|-
||8mm fisheye
||4||90°|| ||
||3||120°||3||120°
|-
||10.5mm fisheye
||6||60°|| ||
||3||120°|| ||
|-
||16mm fisheye
|| || || ||
||6||60°||4||90°
|-
||10mm rectilinear
||6||60°||4||90°
|| || || ||
|-
||14mm rectilinear
||8||45°||6||60°
|| || || ||
|-
||18mm rectilinear
||10||36°||8||45°
|| || || ||
|-
||24mm rectilinear
||12||30°||8||45°
||8||45°||6||60°
|-
||28mm rectilinear
||15||24°||10||36°
||12-8||30°-40°||8-6||40°-60°
|-
||35mm rectilinear
||18||20°||12||30°
||18-12||20°-30°||12-8||30°-40°
|-
||50mm rectilinear
||24||15°||18||20°
||18||20°||12||30°
|-
||70mm rectilinear
||36||10°||24||15°
||24||15°||15||24°
|}
{{clr}}

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" rowspan="3" | '''Focal Length'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="4" | '''(Micro-) Four Thirds (crop factor 2.0)'''
|-
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Portrait '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Landscape'''
|-
|style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate
|-
||8mm fisheye
||4||90°||3||120°
|-
||7mm rectilinear
||5||72°||4||90°
|-
||9mm rectilinear
||6||60°||5||72°
|-
||11mm rectilinear
||7||51,5°||6||60°
|-
||12mm rectilinear
||8||45°||6||60°
|-
||14mm rectilinear
||9||40°||7||51,5°
|-
||17mm rectilinear
||11||33°||8||45°
|-
||18mm rectilinear
||11||33°||9||40°
|-
||25mm rectilinear
||15||24°||12||30°
|-
||35mm rectilinear
||21||17°||16||22,5°
|-
||40mm rectilinear
||24||15°||18||20°
|}
{{clr}}

== Related Resources ==

* VRwave lens database - http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic-lens-database
* Camera and lens settings for Nodal Ninja tripod heads - http://www.nodalninja.com/support/camerasettings.html
* Panoramic Resolution by Ken Turkowski - http://www.worldserver.com/turk/quicktimevr/panores.html
* Panoramic Calculator by Frank van der Pol - http://www.frankvanderpol.nl/fov_pan_calc.htm
* Panoramic calculator by Sean T. McHugh (at the very bottom) http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/image-projections.htm
* Olympus E-System specific data (german)
** http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E_System tripod mount and entrance pupil measurements
** http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E-300_/_E-500 entrance pupil measurements with different lenses
** http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E-1 entrance pupil measurements for E-1 with different lenses
* See http://www.hugha.co.uk/NodalPoint/Index.htm for detailed analyses of
** Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6 EX DC HSM,
** Nikon 28mm f2.8 D AF,
** Nikon 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 G AF-S VR,
** Sigma 8mm f/3.5 EX DG,
** Nikon 10.5mm f2.8 G ED,
** Samyang 8mm f3.5 FISH-EYE CD.
* Joseph Wisniewski's 2003 bumper list of lens data : http://www.swissarmyfork.com/lens_table_1.htm and tripod pin offset data : http://www.swissarmyfork.com/mount_table_1.htm
* Pierre Toscani's ray-tracing calculations and entrance pupil animations: http://www.pierretoscani.com/echo_fisheyes_english.html of the
** Nikon 10.5mm f2.8 G ED
** Nikon 16mm f2.8 D
** Nikon 28mm f2.8 D
[[Category:Hardware]]

{{Incomplete|Talk}}

Entrance Pupil Database

2013-03-23T12:32:55Z

Erik Krause: /* Entrance Pupil Measurements */ sortability restored, simplified

Wouldn't it be great if everyone entered their values for their [[No-parallax point| NPP / Nodal Point / Entrance Pupil]] for lens and camera combinations.
Some searching on the web will find a lot of people saying they want to start to create a database of some kind, but have not seen anything substantial so far (correct me if I am wrong).

Please enter your own values if they are not listed.

Thanks,
--[[User:Korffr|Richard Korff]] 11:12, 13 May 2005 (EDT)

To cater for all the different camera bodies and lenses, the tables have been split into 3 parts:

*The '''[[#Tripod Mount Measurements|first table]]''' shows the position of the tripod mount in relation to the lens axis. This is easy to measure and is dependent only on the camera body.
*The '''[[#Entrance Pupil Measurements|second table]]''' shows the actual entrance pupil distance which is only dependent on the lens itself. Note that the [[No-parallax point|NPP]] for [[Special issues with fisheye lenses|fisheye]] lenses is not constant over the image circle's [[Field of View|FoV]], so you will sometimes find different NPP values depending on the angle where your images overlap.
*The '''[[#Number of pics for 360°|third table]]''' shows the number if pics neccessay for a full 360° coverage and the rotation angle between shots.

Use as much as possible actual measurements rather than the reading on your [[panorama head]], unless your are sure these are the same.

To enter a line for your combination, edit the page by clicking edit at the top of the screen (you may need to create an account or sign-in first), and edit the table below.

== Tripod Mount Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left" valign="top" class="wikitable sortable"
|+
! '''Camera'''
! '''Tripod mount off-center (C)'''
! '''Tripod mount height (H)'''
! '''Tripod mount length (L1)'''
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
!<div style="width: 200px; height:150px"> </div><hr>Use the correct name of your camera. For digital camera's, please use the name as mentioned at [http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs.asp dpreview]. || [[Image:EPDB-off-center.jpg|Tripod mount off-center]]<hr>Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the the middle of the tripod mount to the lens axis (0 if the tripod mount is over the centre of the lens) || [[Image:EPDB-height.jpg|Tripod mount height]]<hr>Facing the camera, the distance from the base of the camera to the center of the lens || [[Image:EPDB-length1.jpg|Tripod mount length]]<hr>Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the middle of the tripod mount to the base of the lens base, or base for adaptor tube. For fixed lens camera's which do not allow use of adaptors this column is not applicable.
|-
|Canon EOS 5D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |42 mm || align="center" | 37,5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 5D MKII || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 43.5 mm, 90 mm w/grip || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 7D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42 mm || align="center" | 37.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 10D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42 mm || align="center" | 31.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 20D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 40 mm || align="center" | 36.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 40D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 60D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 40.5 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 400D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-Canon EOS 400D with BG-E3 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 81 mm || align="center" | 33 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel (EOS Digital Rebel) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |40 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |40 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 350D / Digital Rebel XT || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37.5 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 450D / Digital Rebel XSi || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 35 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 500D / Digital Rebel X1i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 550D / Digital Rebel T2i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 39 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 600D / Digital Rebel T3i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 40 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 650D / Digital Rebel T4i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 41 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 1000D / Digital Rebel XS || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37 mm || align="center" | 39 mm

|-
|Canon G9 || align="center" | 12 mm || align="center" | 29 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon PowerShot A630 || align="center" | 15 mm || align="center" | 28 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon PowerShot A710 IS || align="center" | 21 mm || align="center" | 26.5 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon PowerShot S80 || align="center" | 18 mm || align="center" | 25 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Fujifilm FinePix S7000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 32.8 mm || align="center" | 69mm + 37mm(Adapt.Tube)=106mm
|-
|Konica Minolta Maxxum 7D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 41 mm || align="center" | 36 mm
|-
|Nikon C8800 || align="center" | 19.1 mm || align="center" | 67.9 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Nikon D2H (+D2Hs/D2X/D2Xs?) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 79 mm || align="center" | 29.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D40 (+D40x?) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 42 mm
|-
|Nikon D60 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 42 mm
|-
|Nikon D70 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 52 mm || align="center" | 36 mm
|-
|Nikon D80 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42.8 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D90 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42.8 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D100 with MB-D100 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 33.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D200 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 47 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D200 with MB-D200 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | ~33 mm
|-
|Nikon D300 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 47.2 mm || align="center" | 42.4 mm
|-
|Nikon D300 with MB-D10 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 90.2 mm || align="center" | 31.4 mm
|-
|Nikon D700 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 50 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D700 with MB-D10 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D800, D800E || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 50 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D800, D800E + MB-D12 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D3000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 35.6 mm || align="center" | 42.4 mm
|-
|Nikon D7000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 43 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D7000 with MB-D11|| align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 85.8 mm || align="center" | 25 mm
|-
|Nikon D3X || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 76.9 mm || align="center" | 28.0 mm
|-
|Nikon D5000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42.8 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Pentax *ist DS || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 43 mm
|-
|Pentax K10D/K20D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 41.6 mm || align="center" | 37.2 mm
|-
|Pentax K-7/K-5 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 38.2 mm || align="center" | 41.6 mm
|-
|Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 || align="center" | 21.5 mm || align="center" | 27.7 mm || align="center" | 28.9 mm
|-
|Sony Alpha A100 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37 mm || align="center" | 35 mm
|-
|Sony SLT-A33/55 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 31 mm
|-
|Sony NEX-7 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 32 mm || align="center" | 20.5 mm
|}

<br style="clear:both;">
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>

== Entrance Pupil Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="center" class="wikitable sortable"
|+
! '''Lens'''
! '''Focal Length'''
! '''Entrance Pupil Length (L2)'''
|-valign="top"
!<div style="height:150px;"> </div><hr>Enter the exact lens name, or if you are using a camera with a fixed lens the name of your camera as mentioned at [http://www.dpreview.com/products/cameras DPreview].||<div style="height:150px;"> </div><hr> ||[[Image:EPDB-length2.jpg|Entrance Pupil Length]]<hr>Facing the side of the lens, the distance from the base of the lens to the Entrance Pupil. A negative value means the entrance pupil is outside the lens, in the camera body.Such is the case with many telephoto lenses. The lens base is the
|-
| Canon EF-S 10-22mm || 10mm || 66mm
|-
| Canon EF 15mm || 15mm || 45mm at F11 focus at 1m
|-
| Canon EF 16-35 mm || 16mm || 79mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || 17mm || 71mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || 28mm || 69mm
|-
| Canon 17-40mm || 40mm || 72mm
|-
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || 17mm || 75.5mm
|-
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || 20mm || 71mm
|-
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || 28mm || 59.5mm
|-
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || 35mm || 52mm
|-
| Canon 18-55mm (which version?) || 18mm || 47mm
|-
| Canon 18-55mm || 24mm || 23mm
|-
| Canon 18-55mm || 35mm || 45mm
|-
| Canon 18-55mm || 55mm || 55mm
|-
| Canon 24mm f/2.8 || 24mm || 28.5mm at F11 focus at 2m
|-
| Canon 24mm TSE f/3.5L II || 24mm || 86mm at F11, focus infinity at F11 mark
|-
| Canon 35mm f/2 || 35mm || 12.5mm
|-
| Canon 35mm f/2 || 35mm || 23mm at F11 and infinity at the red dot
|-
| Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 || 50mm || 17.5mm
|-
| Canon 50mm f/1.8 II || 50mm || 23mm
|-
| Canon 50mm f/2.5 macro || 50mm || 21.5mm at F11, focus infinity at red dot mark
|-
| Canon 50mm f/2.5 macro || 50mm || 30mm at F11, focus at aprox 0.56m, 0.5m at left f16 mark.
|-
| Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 || 85mm || 39mm
|-
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || 70mm || 92mm
|-
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || 100mm || 67mm
|-
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || 135mm || 53mm
|-
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || 200mm || ??
|-
| Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8 L IS USM || 200mm || 26mm
|-
| Konica Minolta 24 f/2.8 || 24mm || 21mm
|-
| Samyang 8mm f3.5 CS Fish-eye (~60°)|| 8mm || 50mm
|-
| Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC|| 14mm || 55mm
|-
| Samyang 35mm f1.4 AS UMC|| 35mm || 58mm
|-
| Sigma 70-300 (which version?) || 70mm || 83mm
|-
| Sigma 70-300 || 85mm || 70mm
|-
| Sigma 70-300 || 100mm || 45mm
|-
| Sigma 70-300 || 135mm || -30mm
|-
| Sigma 70-300 || 200mm || -30mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || 10.5mm || 45.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || 10.5mm || 46mm
|-
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm Shaved (edge Null) || 10.5mm || 47.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 12-24mm || 12mm || 71.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 14mm f2.8D ED || 14mm || 48mm (Varies by angle)
|-
| Nikkor AF 16mm f2.8D Fisheye || 16mm || 48mm. (~ Suggested) Varies by 15mm: 41.3mm (at 0deg), 48mm (85deg)
|-
| Nikkor AF 18mm f2.8D || 18mm || 34mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 20mm f2.8D || 20mm || 22mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 24mm f2.8D || 24mm || 25mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 28mm f2.8D || 28mm || 22mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-55mm II|| 18mm || 70mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || 18mm || 51mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || 24mm || 44mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || 35mm || 33.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || 50mm || 24.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || 70mm || -6.5mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 35mm f2.0D || 35mm || 19.3mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX 35mm f1.8G || 35mm || 18mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S DX Micro 40mm f2.8G || 40mm || 33mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 50mm f1.4D || 50mm || 6mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 50mm f1.8D || 50mm || 19mm
|-
| Nikkor AF-S 50mm f1.8G || 50mm || 7mm ~
|-
| Nikkor AF 60mm f2.8D Micro || 60mm || 15mm (infinity focus)
|-
| Nikkor AF 80-200mm f2.8D ED || 80mm || 81.2mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 80-200mm f2.8D ED || 135mm || 6mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 80-200mm f2.8D ED || 200mm || -90mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 85mm f1.8D || 85mm || 10mm
|-
| Nikon 105mm f2.8D Micro || 105mm || 32mm (infinity focus)
|-
| Nikon 105mm f2.8G VR Micro-Nikkor || 105mm || 30mm (~, at infinity focus)
|-
| Nikon 105mm f2.8G VR Micro-Nikkor || 105mm || -50mm (~, at 1:1)
|-
| Nikkor AF 135mm f2D DC || 135mm || 42mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 180mm f2.8D ED || 180mm || -45mm
|-
| Nikkor AF 200mm f4D ED Micro || 200mm || 96mm (infinity focus)
|-
| Sigma 10mm f/2.8 EX DC HSM Fisheye (60° stops) || 10mm || 50mm
|-
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX || 8mm || 47.5mm / 49mm / 51mm - which one is it?
|-
| Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX || 8mm || 49.5mm
|-
| Nikon C8800 at Wide inf. (is this at the widest setting ?) || 8.9mm ?? || 75mm center of tripod mtg screw to Ent Pupil
|-
| Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 || 5.1mm || 28.5mm (but what constitutes the lens base?)
|-
| Peleng-N 8mm F3.5 || 8mm || 44mm
|-
| Opteka 0.22X UHD II FishEye || 8mm (0.22X) || 35.75mm
|-
| Tamron 90mm F2.8 Di2 Macro || 90mm || 34mm
|-
| Sigma 35mm F1.4 A HSM || 35mm || 62mm
|-
| Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM || 8mm || 73mm
|-
| Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM || 12mm || 67mm
|-
| Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM || 16mm || 66.5mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || 10mm || 62mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || 14mm || 64mm
|-
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || 20mm || 68mm
|-
| Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4.5 DC macro || 17mm || 58mm
|-
| Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC || 30mm || 26.5mm
|-
| Sigma APO 50-150 2.8 II EX DC HSM || 50mm || 60mm
|-
| Sigma APO 50-150 2.8 II EX DC HSM || 70mm || 30mm
|-
| Sigma APO 50-150 2.8 II EX DC HSM || 100mm || -10mm
|-
| Sony 18-55mm E-mount || 18mm || 15.5mm
|-
| Sony 18-55mm E-mount || 24mm || 12.5mm
|-
| Sony 18-55mm E-mount || 35mm || -23.5mm
|-
| Tamron 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 || 11mm || 58.5mm
|-
| Tamron 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 || 14mm || 59.5mm
|-
| Tamron 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 || 18mm || 62.5mm
|-
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || 17mm || 56.5mm
|-
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || 24mm || 48mm
|-
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || 35mm || 40.5mm
|-
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || 50mm || 31.5mm
|-
| Tamron 28-75mm F2.8 XR DI || 28-75mm || 58.8mm
|-
| Tokina 10-17mm f3.5 DX || 10mm || 58.2mm (~ consider also the gap between L1 and L2 for some cameras)
|-
| Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 DX || 11mm || 65.6mm
|-
| Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 DX || 16mm || 67.6mm
|-
| Tokina 12-24mm f4 DX || 12mm || 60mm
|-
| Tokina 12-24mm f4 DX || 18mm || 64mm ~
|-
| Tokina 12-24mm f4 DX || 24mm || 59mm
|-
| Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 20mm f/4 || 20mm || 17.5mm
|-
| Raynox DCR-CF185PRO || Conversion lens || 80mm
|-
| Canon PowerShot A630 || 35mm (wide open) || 31mm
|-
| Canon PowerShot A710 IS || 35mm (wide open) || 32mm
|-
| Canon G9 || 7.4mm (wide) || 33.7mm from tripod screw
|-
| Canon G9 || 44.4mm (tight) || -10mm from tripod screw
|-
| Zenitar 2,8/16 || 16mm || 36mm
|-
| Pentax smc DA 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 Fisheye zoom || 10mm || 57.8mm
|-
! <Manufacturer / Lens> || <Focal Length> || <Entrance Pupil Length>
|}

<br style="clear:both;">

*To calculate the Entrance pupil distance add the Tripod Mount Length (L1) from the camera and the Entrance Pupil Length (L2) from the lens. So for example for a Canon 300d and a 10-22mm at 10mm, the total Entrance pupil distance from the tripod mount is 40mm + 66mm = 106mm

*For these '''''Focal Length''''' values the actual focus is set to infinity (<math>\infty</math>)

== Number of pics for 360° ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" rowspan="3" | '''Focal Length <br> Lens Type'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="4" | '''crop factor 1.5/1.6 '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="4" | '''Full Frame'''
|-
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Portrait '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Landscape'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Portrait '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Landscape'''
|-
|style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate
|style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate
|-
||8mm fisheye
||4||90°|| ||
||3||120°||3||120°
|-
||10.5mm fisheye
||6||60°|| ||
||3||120°|| ||
|-
||16mm fisheye
|| || || ||
||6||60°||4||90°
|-
||10mm rectilinear
||6||60°||4||90°
|| || || ||
|-
||14mm rectilinear
||8||45°||6||60°
|| || || ||
|-
||18mm rectilinear
||10||36°||8||45°
|| || || ||
|-
||24mm rectilinear
||12||30°||8||45°
||8||45°||6||60°
|-
||28mm rectilinear
||15||24°||10||36°
||12-8||30°-40°||8-6||40°-60°
|-
||35mm rectilinear
||18||20°||12||30°
||18-12||20°-30°||12-8||30°-40°
|-
||50mm rectilinear
||24||15°||18||20°
||18||20°||12||30°
|-
||70mm rectilinear
||36||10°||24||15°
||24||15°||15||24°
|}
{{clr}}

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" rowspan="3" | '''Focal Length'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="4" | '''(Micro-) Four Thirds (crop factor 2.0)'''
|-
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Portrait '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Landscape'''
|-
|style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate
|-
||8mm fisheye
||4||90°||3||120°
|-
||7mm rectilinear
||5||72°||4||90°
|-
||9mm rectilinear
||6||60°||5||72°
|-
||11mm rectilinear
||7||51,5°||6||60°
|-
||12mm rectilinear
||8||45°||6||60°
|-
||14mm rectilinear
||9||40°||7||51,5°
|-
||17mm rectilinear
||11||33°||8||45°
|-
||18mm rectilinear
||11||33°||9||40°
|-
||25mm rectilinear
||15||24°||12||30°
|-
||35mm rectilinear
||21||17°||16||22,5°
|-
||40mm rectilinear
||24||15°||18||20°
|}
{{clr}}

== Related Resources ==

* VRwave lens database - http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic-lens-database
* Camera and lens settings for Nodal Ninja tripod heads - http://www.nodalninja.com/support/camerasettings.html
* Panoramic Resolution by Ken Turkowski - http://www.worldserver.com/turk/quicktimevr/panores.html
* Panoramic Calculator by Frank van der Pol - http://www.frankvanderpol.nl/fov_pan_calc.htm
* Panoramic calculator by Sean T. McHugh (at the very bottom) http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/image-projections.htm
* Olympus E-System specific data (german)
** http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E_System tripod mount and entrance pupil measurements
** http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E-300_/_E-500 entrance pupil measurements with different lenses
** http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E-1 entrance pupil measurements for E-1 with different lenses
* See http://www.hugha.co.uk/NodalPoint/Index.htm for detailed analyses of
** Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6 EX DC HSM,
** Nikon 28mm f2.8 D AF,
** Nikon 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 G AF-S VR,
** Sigma 8mm f/3.5 EX DG,
** Nikon 10.5mm f2.8 G ED,
** Samyang 8mm f3.5 FISH-EYE CD.
* Joseph Wisniewski's 2003 bumper list of lens data : http://www.swissarmyfork.com/lens_table_1.htm and tripod pin offset data : http://www.swissarmyfork.com/mount_table_1.htm
* Pierre Toscani's ray-tracing calculations and entrance pupil animations: http://www.pierretoscani.com/echo_fisheyes_english.html of the
** Nikon 10.5mm f2.8 G ED
** Nikon 16mm f2.8 D
** Nikon 28mm f2.8 D
[[Category:Hardware]]

{{Incomplete|Talk}}

Entrance Pupil Database

2013-03-23T12:12:08Z

Erik Krause: /* Tripod Mount Measurements */ restored sortability

Wouldn't it be great if everyone entered their values for their [[No-parallax point| NPP / Nodal Point / Entrance Pupil]] for lens and camera combinations.
Some searching on the web will find a lot of people saying they want to start to create a database of some kind, but have not seen anything substantial so far (correct me if I am wrong).

Please enter your own values if they are not listed.

Thanks,
--[[User:Korffr|Richard Korff]] 11:12, 13 May 2005 (EDT)

To cater for all the different camera bodies and lenses, the tables have been split into 3 parts:

*The '''[[#Tripod Mount Measurements|first table]]''' shows the position of the tripod mount in relation to the lens axis. This is easy to measure and is dependent only on the camera body.
*The '''[[#Entrance Pupil Measurements|second table]]''' shows the actual entrance pupil distance which is only dependent on the lens itself. Note that the [[No-parallax point|NPP]] for [[Special issues with fisheye lenses|fisheye]] lenses is not constant over the image circle's [[Field of View|FoV]], so you will sometimes find different NPP values depending on the angle where your images overlap.
*The '''[[#Number of pics for 360°|third table]]''' shows the number if pics neccessay for a full 360° coverage and the rotation angle between shots.

Use as much as possible actual measurements rather than the reading on your [[panorama head]], unless your are sure these are the same.

To enter a line for your combination, edit the page by clicking edit at the top of the screen (you may need to create an account or sign-in first), and edit the table below.

== Tripod Mount Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left" valign="top" class="wikitable sortable"
|+
! '''Camera'''
! '''Tripod mount off-center (C)'''
! '''Tripod mount height (H)'''
! '''Tripod mount length (L1)'''
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
!<div style="width: 200px; height:150px"> </div><hr>Use the correct name of your camera. For digital camera's, please use the name as mentioned at [http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs.asp dpreview]. || [[Image:EPDB-off-center.jpg|Tripod mount off-center]]<hr>Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the the middle of the tripod mount to the lens axis (0 if the tripod mount is over the centre of the lens) || [[Image:EPDB-height.jpg|Tripod mount height]]<hr>Facing the camera, the distance from the base of the camera to the center of the lens || [[Image:EPDB-length1.jpg|Tripod mount length]]<hr>Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the middle of the tripod mount to the base of the lens base, or base for adaptor tube. For fixed lens camera's which do not allow use of adaptors this column is not applicable.
|-
|Canon EOS 5D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |42 mm || align="center" | 37,5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 5D MKII || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 43.5 mm, 90 mm w/grip || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 7D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42 mm || align="center" | 37.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 10D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42 mm || align="center" | 31.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 20D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 40 mm || align="center" | 36.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 40D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 60D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 40.5 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 400D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-Canon EOS 400D with BG-E3 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 81 mm || align="center" | 33 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel (EOS Digital Rebel) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |40 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 300D / Digital Rebel || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" |40 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 350D / Digital Rebel XT || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37.5 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 450D / Digital Rebel XSi || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 35 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 500D / Digital Rebel X1i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 38.5 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 550D / Digital Rebel T2i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 39 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 600D / Digital Rebel T3i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 40 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 650D / Digital Rebel T4i || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 41 mm || align="center" | 39 mm
|-
|Canon EOS 1000D / Digital Rebel XS || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37 mm || align="center" | 39 mm

|-
|Canon G9 || align="center" | 12 mm || align="center" | 29 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon PowerShot A630 || align="center" | 15 mm || align="center" | 28 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon PowerShot A710 IS || align="center" | 21 mm || align="center" | 26.5 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Canon PowerShot S80 || align="center" | 18 mm || align="center" | 25 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Fujifilm FinePix S7000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 32.8 mm || align="center" | 69mm + 37mm(Adapt.Tube)=106mm
|-
|Konica Minolta Maxxum 7D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 41 mm || align="center" | 36 mm
|-
|Nikon C8800 || align="center" | 19.1 mm || align="center" | 67.9 mm || align="center" | N/A
|-
|Nikon D2H (+D2Hs/D2X/D2Xs?) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 79 mm || align="center" | 29.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D40 (+D40x?) || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 42 mm
|-
|Nikon D60 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 42 mm
|-
|Nikon D70 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 52 mm || align="center" | 36 mm
|-
|Nikon D80 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42.8 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D90 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42.8 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D100 with MB-D100 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 33.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D200 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 47 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D200 with MB-D200 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | ~33 mm
|-
|Nikon D300 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 47.2 mm || align="center" | 42.4 mm
|-
|Nikon D300 with MB-D10 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 90.2 mm || align="center" | 31.4 mm
|-
|Nikon D700 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 50 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D700 with MB-D10 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D800, D800E || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 50 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D800, D800E + MB-D12 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 93 mm || align="center" | 44.5 mm
|-
|Nikon D3000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 35.6 mm || align="center" | 42.4 mm
|-
|Nikon D7000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 43 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Nikon D7000 with MB-D11|| align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 85.8 mm || align="center" | 25 mm
|-
|Nikon D3X || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 76.9 mm || align="center" | 28.0 mm
|-
|Nikon D5000 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 42.8 mm || align="center" | 40 mm
|-
|Pentax *ist DS || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 43 mm
|-
|Pentax K10D/K20D || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 41.6 mm || align="center" | 37.2 mm
|-
|Pentax K-7/K-5 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 38.2 mm || align="center" | 41.6 mm
|-
|Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 || align="center" | 21.5 mm || align="center" | 27.7 mm || align="center" | 28.9 mm
|-
|Sony Alpha A100 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 37 mm || align="center" | 35 mm
|-
|Sony SLT-A33/55 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 36 mm || align="center" | 31 mm
|-
|Sony NEX-7 || align="center" | 0 mm || align="center" | 32 mm || align="center" | 20.5 mm
|}

<br style="clear:both;">
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>

== Entrance Pupil Measurements ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="center" class="wikitable sortable"
|+
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Lens'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="25%" | '''Focal Length'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" width="50%" | '''Entrance Pupil Length (L2)'''
|-valign="top"
|<div style="height:150px;"> </div><hr>Enter the exact lens name, or if you are using a camera with a fixed lens the name of your camera as mentioned at [http://www.dpreview.com/products/cameras DPreview].||<div style="height:150px;"> </div><hr> ||[[Image:EPDB-length2.jpg|Entrance Pupil Length]]<hr>Facing the side of the lens, the distance from the base of the lens to the Entrance Pupil. A negative value means the entrance pupil is before the lens base, such is the case with many telephoto lenses.
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon EF-S 10-22mm || align="center" | 10mm || align="center" | 66mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon EF 15mm || align="center" | 15mm || align="center" | 45mm at F11 focus at 1m
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon EF 16-35 mm || align="center" | 16mm || align="center" | 79mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 17mm || align="center" | 71mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 28mm || align="center" | 69mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 17-40mm || align="center" | 40mm || align="center" | 72mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || align="center" | 17mm || align="center" | 75.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || align="center" | 20mm || align="center" | 71mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || align="center" | 28mm || align="center" | 59.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 52mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 18-55mm (which version?) || align="center" | 18mm || align="center" | 47mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 18-55mm || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 23mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 18-55mm || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 45mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 18-55mm || align="center" | 55mm || align="center" | 55mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 24mm f/2.8 || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 28.5mm at F11 focus at 2m
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 24mm TSE f/3.5L II || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 86mm at F11, focus infinity at F11 mark
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 35mm f/2 || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 12.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 35mm f/2 || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 23mm at F11 and infinity at the red dot
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 17.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 50mm f/1.8 II || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 23mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 50mm f/2.5 macro || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 21.5mm at F11, focus infinity at red dot mark
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon 50mm f/2.5 macro || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 30mm at F11, focus at aprox 0.56m, 0.5m at left f16 mark.
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 || align="center" | 85mm || align="center" | 39mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || align="center" | 70mm || align="center" | 92mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || align="center" | 100mm || align="center" | 67mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || align="center" | 135mm || align="center" | 53mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon EF 70-200 f/4.0 L USM || align="center" | 200mm || align="center" | ??
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon EF 70-200 f/2.8 L IS USM || align="center" | 200mm || align="center" | 26mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Konica Minolta 24 f/2.8 || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 21mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Samyang 8mm f3.5 CS Fish-eye (~60°)|| align="center" | 8mm || align="center" | 50mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Samyang 14mm f2.8 ED AS IF UMC|| align="center" | 14mm || align="center" | 55mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Samyang 35mm f1.4 AS UMC|| align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 58mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 70-300 (which version?) || align="center" | 70mm || align="center" | 83mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 70-300 || align="center" | 85mm || align="center" | 70mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 70-300 || align="center" | 100mm || align="center" | 45mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 70-300 || align="center" | 135mm || align="center" | -30mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 70-300 || align="center" | 200mm || align="center" | -30mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || align="center" | 10.5mm || align="center" | 45.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm || align="center" | 10.5mm || align="center" | 46mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF DX 10.5mm Shaved (edge Null) || align="center" | 10.5mm || align="center" | 47.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF-S DX 12-24mm || align="center" | 12mm || align="center" | 71.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 14mm f2.8D ED || align="center" | 14mm || align="center" | 48mm (Varies by angle)
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 16mm f2.8D Fisheye || align="center" | 16mm || align="center" | Suggest ~48mm. Varies by 15mm:
41.3mm (at 0deg), 48mm (85deg)
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 18mm f2.8D || align="center" | 18mm || align="center" | 34mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 20mm f2.8D || align="center" | 20mm || align="center" | 22mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 24mm f2.8D || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 25mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 28mm f2.8D || align="center" | 28mm || align="center" | 22mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-55mm II|| align="center" | 18mm || align="center" | 70mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 18mm || align="center" | 51mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 44mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 33.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 24.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF-S DX 18-70mm || align="center" | 70mm || align="center" | -6.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 35mm f2.0D || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 19.3mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF-S DX 35mm f1.8G || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 18mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF-S DX Micro 40mm f2.8G || align="center" | 40mm || align="center" | 33mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 50mm f1.4D || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 6mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 50mm f1.8D || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 19mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF-S 50mm f1.8G || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | ~7mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 60mm f2.8D Micro || align="center" | 60mm || align="center" | 15mm (infinity focus)
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 80-200mm f2.8D ED || align="center" | 80mm || align="center" | 81.2mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 80-200mm f2.8D ED || align="center" | 135mm || align="center" | 6mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 80-200mm f2.8D ED || align="center" | 200mm || align="center" | -90mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 85mm f1.8D || align="center" | 85mm || align="center" | 10mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikon 105mm f2.8D Micro || align="center" | 105mm || align="center" | 32mm (infinity focus)
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikon 105mm f2.8G VR Micro-Nikkor || align="center" | 105mm || align="center" | ~30mm (infinity focus)
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikon 105mm f2.8G VR Micro-Nikkor || align="center" | 105mm || align="center" | approx. -50mm (1:1)
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 135mm f2D DC || align="center" | 135mm || align="center" | 42mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 180mm f2.8D ED || align="center" | 180mm || align="center" | (negative) -45mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikkor AF 200mm f4D ED Micro || align="center" | 200mm || align="center" | 96mm (infinity focus)
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 10mm f/2.8 EX DC HSM Fisheye (60° stops) || align="center" | 10mm || align="center" | 50mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX || align="center" | 8mm || align="center" | 47.5mm / 49mm / 51mm - which one is it?
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 8mm F3.5 EX || align="center" | 8mm || align="center" | 49.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Nikon C8800 at Wide inf. (is this at the widest setting ?) || align="center" | 8.9mm ?? || align="center" | 75mm center of tripod mtg screw to Ent Pupil
|-class="sortbottom"
| Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 || align="center" | 5.1mm || align="center" | 28.5mm (but what constitutes the lens base?)
|-class="sortbottom"
| Peleng-N 8mm F3.5 || align="center" | 8mm || align="center" | 44mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Opteka 0.22X UHD II FishEye || align="center" | 0.22X - 8mm || align="center" | 35.75mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tamron 90mm F2.8 Di2 Macro || align="center" | 90mm || align="center" | 34mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 35mm F1.4 A HSM || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 62mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM || align="center" | 8mm || align="center" | 73mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM || align="center" | 12mm || align="center" | 67mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM || align="center" | 16mm || align="center" | 66.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 10mm || align="center" | 62mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 14mm || align="center" | 64mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 EX DC || align="center" | 20mm || align="center" | 68mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 17-70mm F2.8-4.5 DC macro || align="center" | 17mm || align="center" | 58mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC || align="center" | 30mm || align="center" | 26.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma APO 50-150 2.8 II EX DC HSM || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 60mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma APO 50-150 2.8 II EX DC HSM || align="center" | 70mm || align="center" | 30mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sigma APO 50-150 2.8 II EX DC HSM || align="center" | 100mm || align="center" | -10mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sony 18-55mm E-mount || align="center" | 18mm || align="center" | 15.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sony 18-55mm E-mount || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 12.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Sony 18-55mm E-mount || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | -23.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tamron 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 || align="center" | 11mm || align="center" | 58.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tamron 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 || align="center" | 14mm || align="center" | 59.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tamron 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 || align="center" | 18mm || align="center" | 62.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || align="center" | 17mm || align="center" | 56.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 48mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || align="center" | 35mm || align="center" | 40.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tamron 17-50mm F2.8 XR DI II LD ASP || align="center" | 50mm || align="center" | 31.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tamron 28-75mm F2.8 XR DI || align="center" | 28-75mm || align="center" | 58.8mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tokina 10-17mm f3.5 DX || align="center" | 10mm || align="center" | ~58.2mm (consider also the gap between L1 and L2 for some cameras)
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 DX || align="center" | 11mm || align="center" | 65.6mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 DX || align="center" | 16mm || align="center" | 67.6mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tokina 12-24mm f4 DX || align="center" | 12mm || align="center" | 60mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tokina 12-24mm f4 DX || align="center" | 18mm || align="center" | ~64mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Tokina 12-24mm f4 DX || align="center" | 24mm || align="center" | 59mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 20mm f/4 || align="center" | 20mm || align="center" | 17.5mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Raynox DCR-CF185PRO || align="center" | Conversion lens || align="center" | 80mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon PowerShot A630 || align="center" | 35mm (wide open) || align="center" | 31mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon PowerShot A710 IS || align="center" | 35mm (wide open) || align="center" | 32mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon G9 || align="center" | 7.4mm (wide) || align="center" | 33.7mm from tripod screw
|-class="sortbottom"
| Canon G9 || align="center" | 44.4mm (tight) || align="center" | -10mm from tripod screw
|-class="sortbottom"
| Zenitar 2,8/16 || align="center" | 16mm || align="center" | 36mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| Pentax smc DA 10-17mm F3.5-4.5 Fisheye zoom || align="center" | 10mm || align="center" | 57.8mm
|-class="sortbottom"
| <Manufacturer / Lens> || align="center" | <Focal Length> || align="center" | <Entrance Pupil Length>
|}

<br style="clear:both;">

*To calculate the Entrance pupil distance add the Tripod Mount Length (L1) from the camera and the Entrance Pupil Length (L2) from the lens. So for example for a Canon 300d and a 10-22mm at 10mm, the total Entrance pupil distance from the tripod mount is 40mm + 66mm = 106mm

*For these '''''Focal Length''''' values the actual focus is set to infinity (<math>\infty</math>)

== Number of pics for 360° ==

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" rowspan="3" | '''Focal Length <br> Lens Type'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="4" | '''crop factor 1.5/1.6 '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="4" | '''Full Frame'''
|-
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Portrait '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Landscape'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Portrait '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Landscape'''
|-
|style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate
|style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate
|-
||8mm fisheye
||4||90°|| ||
||3||120°||3||120°
|-
||10.5mm fisheye
||6||60°|| ||
||3||120°|| ||
|-
||16mm fisheye
|| || || ||
||6||60°||4||90°
|-
||10mm rectilinear
||6||60°||4||90°
|| || || ||
|-
||14mm rectilinear
||8||45°||6||60°
|| || || ||
|-
||18mm rectilinear
||10||36°||8||45°
|| || || ||
|-
||24mm rectilinear
||12||30°||8||45°
||8||45°||6||60°
|-
||28mm rectilinear
||15||24°||10||36°
||12-8||30°-40°||8-6||40°-60°
|-
||35mm rectilinear
||18||20°||12||30°
||18-12||20°-30°||12-8||30°-40°
|-
||50mm rectilinear
||24||15°||18||20°
||18||20°||12||30°
|-
||70mm rectilinear
||36||10°||24||15°
||24||15°||15||24°
|}
{{clr}}

{| border="1" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" align="left"
|+
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" rowspan="3" | '''Focal Length'''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="4" | '''(Micro-) Four Thirds (crop factor 2.0)'''
|-
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Portrait '''
! style="background:#e0e0e0;" colspan="2" | '''Landscape'''
|-
|style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| pics/360° ||style="background:#e0e0e0;"| rotate
|-
||8mm fisheye
||4||90°||3||120°
|-
||7mm rectilinear
||5||72°||4||90°
|-
||9mm rectilinear
||6||60°||5||72°
|-
||11mm rectilinear
||7||51,5°||6||60°
|-
||12mm rectilinear
||8||45°||6||60°
|-
||14mm rectilinear
||9||40°||7||51,5°
|-
||17mm rectilinear
||11||33°||8||45°
|-
||18mm rectilinear
||11||33°||9||40°
|-
||25mm rectilinear
||15||24°||12||30°
|-
||35mm rectilinear
||21||17°||16||22,5°
|-
||40mm rectilinear
||24||15°||18||20°
|}
{{clr}}

== Related Resources ==

* VRwave lens database - http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic-lens-database
* Camera and lens settings for Nodal Ninja tripod heads - http://www.nodalninja.com/support/camerasettings.html
* Panoramic Resolution by Ken Turkowski - http://www.worldserver.com/turk/quicktimevr/panores.html
* Panoramic Calculator by Frank van der Pol - http://www.frankvanderpol.nl/fov_pan_calc.htm
* Panoramic calculator by Sean T. McHugh (at the very bottom) http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/image-projections.htm
* Olympus E-System specific data (german)
** http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E_System tripod mount and entrance pupil measurements
** http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E-300_/_E-500 entrance pupil measurements with different lenses
** http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E-1 entrance pupil measurements for E-1 with different lenses
* See http://www.hugha.co.uk/NodalPoint/Index.htm for detailed analyses of
** Sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6 EX DC HSM,
** Nikon 28mm f2.8 D AF,
** Nikon 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 G AF-S VR,
** Sigma 8mm f/3.5 EX DG,
** Nikon 10.5mm f2.8 G ED,
** Samyang 8mm f3.5 FISH-EYE CD.
* Joseph Wisniewski's 2003 bumper list of lens data : http://www.swissarmyfork.com/lens_table_1.htm and tripod pin offset data : http://www.swissarmyfork.com/mount_table_1.htm
* Pierre Toscani's ray-tracing calculations and entrance pupil animations: http://www.pierretoscani.com/echo_fisheyes_english.html of the
** Nikon 10.5mm f2.8 G ED
** Nikon 16mm f2.8 D
** Nikon 28mm f2.8 D
[[Category:Hardware]]

{{Incomplete|Talk}}

Template:Enhance

2013-03-17T17:12:59Z

Erik Krause:

<div class="usermessage" id="stub">
{|cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="background-color:inherit"
|''This article is {{{1}}}. You can help Panotools Wiki by [{{SERVER}}/index.php?title={{FULLPAGENAMEE}}&action=edit expanding it].''
|}
<span style="font-weight:normal;">
{{#switch:{{{3}}}
|Talk=See the related [[{{TALKPAGENAMEE}}#Enhance|Talk page]] for hints.<br>
<small>Once the article is ok feel free to remove the <nowiki>{{</nowiki>{{{2}}}<nowiki>|Talk}}</nowiki> template</small>
|<small>Once the article is ok feel free to remove the <nowiki>{{</nowiki>{{{2}}}<nowiki>}}</nowiki> template</small>
}}

</span>
</div>
[[Category:Enhance:{{{1}}}]]

Template:Enhance

2013-03-17T17:10:56Z

Erik Krause:

<div class="usermessage" id="stub">
{|cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="background-color:inherit"
|''This article is {{{1}}}. You can help Panotools Wiki by [{{SERVER}}/wiki/index.php?title={{FULLPAGENAMEE}}&action=edit expanding it].''
|}
<span style="font-weight:normal;">
{{#switch:{{{3}}}
|Talk=See the related [[{{TALKPAGENAMEE}}#Enhance|Talk page]] for hints.<br>
<small>Once the article is ok feel free to remove the <nowiki>{{</nowiki>{{{2}}}<nowiki>|Talk}}</nowiki> template</small>
|<small>Once the article is ok feel free to remove the <nowiki>{{</nowiki>{{{2}}}<nowiki>}}</nowiki> template</small>
}}

</span>
</div>
[[Category:Enhance:{{{1}}}]]

Talk:Entrance Pupil Database

2013-03-17T16:26:55Z

Erik Krause: removed some paragraphs that where fixed long time ago

== Number of picture for 360 / Degrees between picture ==

Peter,

Thanks for adding your measurements.

I have a question. I thought the degrees between the pictures would only be applicable to Fisheye lenses ? Does that also apply to normal lenses ? Or is the difference only noticable in Fisheye lenses, and too small have an impact on normal lenses.

Thanks,

Richard

-- [[User:Korffr|Korffr]] 10:40, 22 May 2005 (EDT)

Hi Richard,

Sorry, I don't know if there is a difference between fisheye and normal lenses. For me it is more an information about the number of pictures needed for 360 degrees with enough overlap. These values are for portrait orientation. Probably we should make a third table with additional things like this then put all the informations in one table, isn't it?

--[[User:Pitdavos|Pitdavos]] 11:31, 22 May 2005 (EDT)

== Tripod Mount Length L1 ==
The text for this measurment includes "For fixed lens camera's this column is not applicable." Is this really true ? A lot of "Fixed" lens cameras do allow the addition of an adaptor tube which then permits the additional lenses to be added - whilst this implies that such cameras are not "Fixed lens" the way it reads now I suspect puts people off inserting a measurment for cameras which include a Fixed lens.

Unless there is another reason I would propose to change the text to read;
"Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the middle of the tripod mount to the base of the lens base, or base for adaptor tube. For fixed lens camera's which do not allow use of adaptors this column is not applicable."

Thoughts ?

Geoff

OK well no comments after several weeks so, changes made and the Fuji S7000 is listed with the length of its adaptor tube as well as an example

Geoff

== Tripod mount to NPP : L, L1 and L2. ==

Problem : The list includes a number of "third-party" SLR lenses (Sigma, Tamron, Tokina, Zeiss, etc) which are available with different lens mounts (Nikon F, Canon EF, etc). Each distinct mount system usually has a different flange-back-distance (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lens_mount#List_of_lens_mounts), ... which means that the L2 distance for ''nikon-fit'' Sigma 8mm f/4 will be different from the canon-fit version. Where the mount system is not known, this ambiguity renders the current L2 data less than useful.

Proposed solution A : Following the example of http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E_System let L2 be measured from "NPP to image plane" (ie the sensor or film plane) because - to the best of my knowledge - this will be ''consistent for a given lens regardless of the lens mount system''. Also let L1 be from "tripod screw to image plane".

:Task 1 : Updating L2 data for all the 'known mount' lenses is a simple job : for Canon-EF lenses add 44mm, for the Nikon-Fs add 46.5mm, for Minolta-AF add 44.5mm, etc. For the 'unknown mount' lenses, as I say, the current data is unusable, so no useful data is lost by switching over the image plane measurement system. Perhaps the 'ambiguous' data could be preserved - in the hope of future clarification - in a separate table, possibly here on the discussion page ?

:Task 2 : Updating L1 is simply a matter of subtracting the appropriate FBD from the current L1 value (eg: Nikon D90 = 40mm - 46.5mm = -6.5mm). The instructions for how to measure L1 could be updated to something like "measure from tripod to mount flange and then subtract the appropriate FBD ..." ?

: Task 3 : Data for H and C are unaffected by this change. (That's an easy one!)

: Task 4: Many cameras with fixed-on lenses will also have an exterior image plane marker (circle with a line through it), but IMO it would be easier to have a separate table for fixed-lens cameras which might as well indicate NPP to tripod socket (L) directly.

Comments most welcome! --[[User:Beeswax|Beeswax]] 02:17, 29 January 2011 (UTC)

== Focal Length / # of pics for 360° / Degree between pics ==

The number of pictures for 360° and the angle between two pictures doesn't depend only on focal length... It also depends on the size of the sensor. For instance the angle is roughly the same for 28mm on an EOS 5D (24x36 sensor) and 17mm on an EOS 350D (APS sensor).

I suggest to put this information to a separate table. [[User:JX|JX]] 16:46, 10 April 2008 (CEST)
:Good idea. (When setting up this table there where almost no full frame sensors available. Could you contribute values?<small>--[[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 18:19, 11 April 2008 (CEST)</small>

:: I will.. when I get time, probably in May. [[User:JX|JX]] 18:13, 14 April 2008 (CEST)

::: Perhaps this "Number of pics for 360°" info deserves its own page/article rather than being appended to the already lengthy "Entrance Pupil Database" ? --[[User:Beeswax|Beeswax]] 02:23, 29 January 2011 (UTC)

==Enhance==
The Entrance pupil database needs constant enhancement. Please enter the NPP-settings you found for your camera.

== Canon 5d Mark III ==

Does anyone have tested if Mark II and Mark III are the same? - [[User:Skal|Skal]] 13:37, 9 January 2013 (UTC)

==Tables==
My suggestion would be to, to split the tables or to mark them with a color according to the manufacturer [[User:Dezen|Dezen]] 19:48, 10 December 2009 (UTC)

== Panasonic Lumix LX3 Lens Base ==

Just wondering if anyone who's familiar with the LX3 could clarify where the lens base is - is it where the lens section protrudes from the main body of the camera, or is it after the ring that contains the aspect and focus controls (i.e., where the 46mm accessory thread is)? Any help would be greatly appreciated. --[[User:Martan74|Martan74]] 17:09, 2 April 2010 (UTC)

== Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX ==

I just did some measurements and found an Entrance Pupil Length of 47mm for this lens. Since there are three other measurements I don't know what to put on the page.

--[[User:Osiris|Osiris]] 11:30, 30 September 2010 (UTC)
:Could well be all of them are right. Fisheyes don't have a single NPP: See [http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Blur_Panorama/Nikkor10-5mm_or_Sigma8mm/Sigma_or_Nikkor/NPP_Sigma_New.jpg this Graph] <small>--[[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 18:54, 30 September 2010 (UTC)</small>

::Thanks for the information and the Graph - this explains a lot. I think it would be good to mention this on the page? Would it be possible/allowed to link to this graph? <small>--[[User:Osiris|Osiris]] 13:06, 4 October 2010 (UTC)</small>

== Entrance pupil shift ==

A number of lenses show strong entrance pupil shift (See the animations by Pierre Toscani!!) by angle from center.
The Nikon 10.5 and 16mm fisheye's entrance pupil shifts by around 15mm, the ideal LPP point for panoramas is therefore a bit of a compromise, depending on the amount of image overlap and I don't know what else.
The Nikon 14mm f2.8D and other wide angles do this too

I observe a number of entries for the same lens, (Nikon 10.5mm) probably as a result of this.

For micro lenses and zooms the present solution of multiple entries works fine, I think.

Any comments on how to enter this in the table in the most useful way for most people, but still have the details for the more technically oriented?

Talk:Entrance Pupil Database

2013-03-17T16:25:18Z

Erik Krause: /* Canon 5d Mark II */ Removed, values are there

I am confused by the terms "horizontal" and "off-axial" adjustment.

It seems like they should be "horizontal" and "vertical".

And these depend on camera orientation. The distance between camera base and lens axis is "horizontal" only if the camera is in portrait orientation. In landscape, that same distance is "vertical".

Pictures should make this clear.

Perhaps it would be even more clear to refer to these offsets as "basal" and "lateral", or some such.

Is there a standard nomenclature for these things? Where is it defined?

--Rik

------
Rik,

I agree with you. Initially I had x, y and z but that would probably be just as arbitrary.
I have not had the time to take pictures of the setup to show what I mean.
The descriptions I had in mind are based on a portrait setup.

I am not sure if there are standard definition for it. I was not able to find it.
Any help or suggestions would be helpfull.

Richard
------

== Number of picture for 360 / Degrees between picture ==

Peter,

Thanks for adding your measurements.

I have a question. I thought the degrees between the pictures would only be applicable to Fisheye lenses ? Does that also apply to normal lenses ? Or is the difference only noticable in Fisheye lenses, and too small have an impact on normal lenses.

Thanks,

Richard

-- [[User:Korffr|Korffr]] 10:40, 22 May 2005 (EDT)

Hi Richard,

Sorry, I don't know if there is a difference between fisheye and normal lenses. For me it is more an information about the number of pictures needed for 360 degrees with enough overlap. These values are for portrait orientation. Probably we should make a third table with additional things like this then put all the informations in one table, isn't it?

--[[User:Pitdavos|Pitdavos]] 11:31, 22 May 2005 (EDT)

== Tripod Mount Length L1 ==
The text for this measurment includes "For fixed lens camera's this column is not applicable." Is this really true ? A lot of "Fixed" lens cameras do allow the addition of an adaptor tube which then permits the additional lenses to be added - whilst this implies that such cameras are not "Fixed lens" the way it reads now I suspect puts people off inserting a measurment for cameras which include a Fixed lens.

Unless there is another reason I would propose to change the text to read;
"Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the middle of the tripod mount to the base of the lens base, or base for adaptor tube. For fixed lens camera's which do not allow use of adaptors this column is not applicable."

Thoughts ?

Geoff

OK well no comments after several weeks so, changes made and the Fuji S7000 is listed with the length of its adaptor tube as well as an example

Geoff

== Tripod mount to NPP : L, L1 and L2. ==

Problem : The list includes a number of "third-party" SLR lenses (Sigma, Tamron, Tokina, Zeiss, etc) which are available with different lens mounts (Nikon F, Canon EF, etc). Each distinct mount system usually has a different flange-back-distance (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lens_mount#List_of_lens_mounts), ... which means that the L2 distance for ''nikon-fit'' Sigma 8mm f/4 will be different from the canon-fit version. Where the mount system is not known, this ambiguity renders the current L2 data less than useful.

Proposed solution A : Following the example of http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E_System let L2 be measured from "NPP to image plane" (ie the sensor or film plane) because - to the best of my knowledge - this will be ''consistent for a given lens regardless of the lens mount system''. Also let L1 be from "tripod screw to image plane".

:Task 1 : Updating L2 data for all the 'known mount' lenses is a simple job : for Canon-EF lenses add 44mm, for the Nikon-Fs add 46.5mm, for Minolta-AF add 44.5mm, etc. For the 'unknown mount' lenses, as I say, the current data is unusable, so no useful data is lost by switching over the image plane measurement system. Perhaps the 'ambiguous' data could be preserved - in the hope of future clarification - in a separate table, possibly here on the discussion page ?

:Task 2 : Updating L1 is simply a matter of subtracting the appropriate FBD from the current L1 value (eg: Nikon D90 = 40mm - 46.5mm = -6.5mm). The instructions for how to measure L1 could be updated to something like "measure from tripod to mount flange and then subtract the appropriate FBD ..." ?

: Task 3 : Data for H and C are unaffected by this change. (That's an easy one!)

: Task 4: Many cameras with fixed-on lenses will also have an exterior image plane marker (circle with a line through it), but IMO it would be easier to have a separate table for fixed-lens cameras which might as well indicate NPP to tripod socket (L) directly.

Comments most welcome! --[[User:Beeswax|Beeswax]] 02:17, 29 January 2011 (UTC)

== Focal Length / # of pics for 360° / Degree between pics ==

The number of pictures for 360° and the angle between two pictures doesn't depend only on focal length... It also depends on the size of the sensor. For instance the angle is roughly the same for 28mm on an EOS 5D (24x36 sensor) and 17mm on an EOS 350D (APS sensor).

I suggest to put this information to a separate table. [[User:JX|JX]] 16:46, 10 April 2008 (CEST)
:Good idea. (When setting up this table there where almost no full frame sensors available. Could you contribute values?<small>--[[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 18:19, 11 April 2008 (CEST)</small>

:: I will.. when I get time, probably in May. [[User:JX|JX]] 18:13, 14 April 2008 (CEST)

::: Perhaps this "Number of pics for 360°" info deserves its own page/article rather than being appended to the already lengthy "Entrance Pupil Database" ? --[[User:Beeswax|Beeswax]] 02:23, 29 January 2011 (UTC)

==Enhance==
The Entrance pupil database needs constant enhancement. Please enter the NPP-settings you found for your camera.

== Canon 5d Mark III ==

Does anyone have tested if Mark II and Mark III are the same? - [[User:Skal|Skal]] 13:37, 9 January 2013 (UTC)

==Tables==
My suggestion would be to, to split the tables or to mark them with a color according to the manufacturer [[User:Dezen|Dezen]] 19:48, 10 December 2009 (UTC)

== Panasonic Lumix LX3 Lens Base ==

Just wondering if anyone who's familiar with the LX3 could clarify where the lens base is - is it where the lens section protrudes from the main body of the camera, or is it after the ring that contains the aspect and focus controls (i.e., where the 46mm accessory thread is)? Any help would be greatly appreciated. --[[User:Martan74|Martan74]] 17:09, 2 April 2010 (UTC)

== Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX ==

I just did some measurements and found an Entrance Pupil Length of 47mm for this lens. Since there are three other measurements I don't know what to put on the page.

--[[User:Osiris|Osiris]] 11:30, 30 September 2010 (UTC)
:Could well be all of them are right. Fisheyes don't have a single NPP: See [http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Blur_Panorama/Nikkor10-5mm_or_Sigma8mm/Sigma_or_Nikkor/NPP_Sigma_New.jpg this Graph] <small>--[[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 18:54, 30 September 2010 (UTC)</small>

::Thanks for the information and the Graph - this explains a lot. I think it would be good to mention this on the page? Would it be possible/allowed to link to this graph? <small>--[[User:Osiris|Osiris]] 13:06, 4 October 2010 (UTC)</small>

== Entrance pupil shift ==

A number of lenses show strong entrance pupil shift (See the animations by Pierre Toscani!!) by angle from center.
The Nikon 10.5 and 16mm fisheye's entrance pupil shifts by around 15mm, the ideal LPP point for panoramas is therefore a bit of a compromise, depending on the amount of image overlap and I don't know what else.
The Nikon 14mm f2.8D and other wide angles do this too

I observe a number of entries for the same lens, (Nikon 10.5mm) probably as a result of this.

For micro lenses and zooms the present solution of multiple entries works fine, I think.

Any comments on how to enter this in the table in the most useful way for most people, but still have the details for the more technically oriented?

Talk:Entrance Pupil Database

2013-03-17T16:24:09Z

Erik Krause: /* Canon 550D */ removed, Values are there

I am confused by the terms "horizontal" and "off-axial" adjustment.

It seems like they should be "horizontal" and "vertical".

And these depend on camera orientation. The distance between camera base and lens axis is "horizontal" only if the camera is in portrait orientation. In landscape, that same distance is "vertical".

Pictures should make this clear.

Perhaps it would be even more clear to refer to these offsets as "basal" and "lateral", or some such.

Is there a standard nomenclature for these things? Where is it defined?

--Rik

------
Rik,

I agree with you. Initially I had x, y and z but that would probably be just as arbitrary.
I have not had the time to take pictures of the setup to show what I mean.
The descriptions I had in mind are based on a portrait setup.

I am not sure if there are standard definition for it. I was not able to find it.
Any help or suggestions would be helpfull.

Richard
------

== Number of picture for 360 / Degrees between picture ==

Peter,

Thanks for adding your measurements.

I have a question. I thought the degrees between the pictures would only be applicable to Fisheye lenses ? Does that also apply to normal lenses ? Or is the difference only noticable in Fisheye lenses, and too small have an impact on normal lenses.

Thanks,

Richard

-- [[User:Korffr|Korffr]] 10:40, 22 May 2005 (EDT)

Hi Richard,

Sorry, I don't know if there is a difference between fisheye and normal lenses. For me it is more an information about the number of pictures needed for 360 degrees with enough overlap. These values are for portrait orientation. Probably we should make a third table with additional things like this then put all the informations in one table, isn't it?

--[[User:Pitdavos|Pitdavos]] 11:31, 22 May 2005 (EDT)

== Tripod Mount Length L1 ==
The text for this measurment includes "For fixed lens camera's this column is not applicable." Is this really true ? A lot of "Fixed" lens cameras do allow the addition of an adaptor tube which then permits the additional lenses to be added - whilst this implies that such cameras are not "Fixed lens" the way it reads now I suspect puts people off inserting a measurment for cameras which include a Fixed lens.

Unless there is another reason I would propose to change the text to read;
"Looking at the bottom of the camera, the distance between the middle of the tripod mount to the base of the lens base, or base for adaptor tube. For fixed lens camera's which do not allow use of adaptors this column is not applicable."

Thoughts ?

Geoff

OK well no comments after several weeks so, changes made and the Fuji S7000 is listed with the length of its adaptor tube as well as an example

Geoff

== Tripod mount to NPP : L, L1 and L2. ==

Problem : The list includes a number of "third-party" SLR lenses (Sigma, Tamron, Tokina, Zeiss, etc) which are available with different lens mounts (Nikon F, Canon EF, etc). Each distinct mount system usually has a different flange-back-distance (see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lens_mount#List_of_lens_mounts), ... which means that the L2 distance for ''nikon-fit'' Sigma 8mm f/4 will be different from the canon-fit version. Where the mount system is not known, this ambiguity renders the current L2 data less than useful.

Proposed solution A : Following the example of http://olypedia.de/Nodalpunkte_E_System let L2 be measured from "NPP to image plane" (ie the sensor or film plane) because - to the best of my knowledge - this will be ''consistent for a given lens regardless of the lens mount system''. Also let L1 be from "tripod screw to image plane".

:Task 1 : Updating L2 data for all the 'known mount' lenses is a simple job : for Canon-EF lenses add 44mm, for the Nikon-Fs add 46.5mm, for Minolta-AF add 44.5mm, etc. For the 'unknown mount' lenses, as I say, the current data is unusable, so no useful data is lost by switching over the image plane measurement system. Perhaps the 'ambiguous' data could be preserved - in the hope of future clarification - in a separate table, possibly here on the discussion page ?

:Task 2 : Updating L1 is simply a matter of subtracting the appropriate FBD from the current L1 value (eg: Nikon D90 = 40mm - 46.5mm = -6.5mm). The instructions for how to measure L1 could be updated to something like "measure from tripod to mount flange and then subtract the appropriate FBD ..." ?

: Task 3 : Data for H and C are unaffected by this change. (That's an easy one!)

: Task 4: Many cameras with fixed-on lenses will also have an exterior image plane marker (circle with a line through it), but IMO it would be easier to have a separate table for fixed-lens cameras which might as well indicate NPP to tripod socket (L) directly.

Comments most welcome! --[[User:Beeswax|Beeswax]] 02:17, 29 January 2011 (UTC)

== Focal Length / # of pics for 360° / Degree between pics ==

The number of pictures for 360° and the angle between two pictures doesn't depend only on focal length... It also depends on the size of the sensor. For instance the angle is roughly the same for 28mm on an EOS 5D (24x36 sensor) and 17mm on an EOS 350D (APS sensor).

I suggest to put this information to a separate table. [[User:JX|JX]] 16:46, 10 April 2008 (CEST)
:Good idea. (When setting up this table there where almost no full frame sensors available. Could you contribute values?<small>--[[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 18:19, 11 April 2008 (CEST)</small>

:: I will.. when I get time, probably in May. [[User:JX|JX]] 18:13, 14 April 2008 (CEST)

::: Perhaps this "Number of pics for 360°" info deserves its own page/article rather than being appended to the already lengthy "Entrance Pupil Database" ? --[[User:Beeswax|Beeswax]] 02:23, 29 January 2011 (UTC)

==Enhance==
The Entrance pupil database needs constant enhancement. Please enter the NPP-settings you found for your camera.

== Canon 5d Mark II ==

Does anyone have these measurements for the Canon 5d Mark II? -[[User:Dvmorris|Dvmorris]] 17:29, 11 April 2009 (UTC)

== Canon 5d Mark III ==

Does anyone have tested if Mark II and Mark III are the same? - [[User:Skal|Skal]] 13:37, 9 January 2013 (UTC)

==Tables==
My suggestion would be to, to split the tables or to mark them with a color according to the manufacturer [[User:Dezen|Dezen]] 19:48, 10 December 2009 (UTC)

== Panasonic Lumix LX3 Lens Base ==

Just wondering if anyone who's familiar with the LX3 could clarify where the lens base is - is it where the lens section protrudes from the main body of the camera, or is it after the ring that contains the aspect and focus controls (i.e., where the 46mm accessory thread is)? Any help would be greatly appreciated. --[[User:Martan74|Martan74]] 17:09, 2 April 2010 (UTC)

== Sigma 8mm F4.0 EX ==

I just did some measurements and found an Entrance Pupil Length of 47mm for this lens. Since there are three other measurements I don't know what to put on the page.

--[[User:Osiris|Osiris]] 11:30, 30 September 2010 (UTC)
:Could well be all of them are right. Fisheyes don't have a single NPP: See [http://michel.thoby.free.fr/Blur_Panorama/Nikkor10-5mm_or_Sigma8mm/Sigma_or_Nikkor/NPP_Sigma_New.jpg this Graph] <small>--[[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 18:54, 30 September 2010 (UTC)</small>

::Thanks for the information and the Graph - this explains a lot. I think it would be good to mention this on the page? Would it be possible/allowed to link to this graph? <small>--[[User:Osiris|Osiris]] 13:06, 4 October 2010 (UTC)</small>

== Entrance pupil shift ==

A number of lenses show strong entrance pupil shift (See the animations by Pierre Toscani!!) by angle from center.
The Nikon 10.5 and 16mm fisheye's entrance pupil shifts by around 15mm, the ideal LPP point for panoramas is therefore a bit of a compromise, depending on the amount of image overlap and I don't know what else.
The Nikon 14mm f2.8D and other wide angles do this too

I observe a number of entries for the same lens, (Nikon 10.5mm) probably as a result of this.

For micro lenses and zooms the present solution of multiple entries works fine, I think.

Any comments on how to enter this in the table in the most useful way for most people, but still have the details for the more technically oriented?

User:Sajaners

2013-03-02T09:44:55Z

Erik Krause:

My name: Rodger Wild<br>My age: 30<br>Country: Netherlands<br>Town: Buitenpost <br>Post code: 9285 VM<br>Address: Molenerf 49<br>

Hugin Main window

2013-01-25T08:44:38Z

Erik Krause: /* Interface */ program -> panorama

{| style="margin: 1em auto 1em 1em;background:#FFFF99;color:#FF0000;text-align:left;border: solid #FF3300;"
|-valign="top"
! '''2013-01-23:'''
! Currently these pages are completely rewritten to reflect the state of the new designed GUI which will be released in 2013
|}

= Tabs =

Although there are many other uses, [[hugin]] is primarily a
tool for assembling multiple photos and creating a 'seamless' panorama.

Hugin is a program that is 'tab' based. Below you see a partial example screen of Hugin showing the tabs.
[[Image:hugin2013_tabs.png]]

This process of assembling multiple photos and creating a 'seamless' panorama is completely automatic
if you use the [[hugin Assistant tab]], which is the default tab,
but '''hugin''' also allows full manual control of every stage. For this '''hugin''' provides three user interface options: Simple, Advanced and Expert.
The '''hugin''' simple mode consists of the [[hugin Assistant tab]] and a few other tabs (as displayed above) that give you simple but effective control on what you are doing.

This is a quick overview of this ''tab'' system for the ''Simple'' interface. It isn't a step by step tutorial.
You can find these tutorials on the [http://hugin.sourceforge.net/tutorials/ hugin website].

For this same overview regarding the "old" user interface (but still the user interface of the current stable release) you can start with [[Hugin Main window old gui]].

== Assistant ==

The [[hugin Assistant tab]] is the fully automatic part of [[hugin]], here you can
load images, align them and ''stitch'' them into a panorama without having to use
any of the other tabs.
The [[hugin Assistant tab]] also consists of a panoramic overview and a preview. This overview and preview are visible on the other tabs as well be it with different functionality and sometimes slightly modified layout.

Alternatively, you can use this '''Assistant''' as the first step in creating a
project that can involve the use of some or all of the other tabs. You can also switch to one of the other
user interface modes Advanced and Expert if you want or need to.

== Preview ==

In the [[hugin Preview tab]] you have options to check your images and positions, the white balance, control points (equal points in two overlapping images), etcetera. Changes will immediately be displayed in this preview. This [[hugin Preview tab]] is the same preview as displayed in the [[Hugin Assistant tab]] and all other tabs in the Simple User Interface.

== Layout ==

The Layout tab shows the entire project as a diagram with colour-coded lines connecting each of the photographs.

[[image:Hugin2013_layout_tab.png|thumb|300px|left|Screenshot of Layout tab; click for larger versions]]
{{clr}}

Green lines connecting images show the control points have a small error, red lines show a large error. Grey lines show no control points connecting the images.

You can see where the project is OK and where there are problems if it isn't quite right. Just click on any connection and Hugin jumps to the Control Points tab to edit that pair of photos.

Use the '''Scale''' slider to change the size of the photo thumbnails. This only effects the Layout display and won't change the final panorama.

== Projection ==
The [[Hugin Projection tab]] is for adjusting the [[Projections|projection]] of the panorama, some projections have adjustable parameters which will appear when selected.

== Move/Drag ==

The [[Hugin move drag tab|Hugin Move/Drag tab]] is used to recentre the panorama interactively (or place it for whatever reason off centre).

== Crop ==

The [[hugin Crop tab]] displays a rectangle over your preview. By dragging the edges of this rectangle you can adjust the output area of the panorama.

= Menus =

== File ==

* '''New''', discard the current project and start a new empty project.
* '''Open''' an existing [[hugin]], [[PTGUI]], [[PTAssembler]], [[autopano]] or [[autopano-sift]] project file.
* '''Save''' the current project as a hugin ''pto'' file.
* '''Save as''' a ''pto'' file with a different name.
* '''Most recently used projects''', shows a list of recent Hugin projects.
* '''Run Batch Processor''', launches the [[Hugin Batch Processor]] GUI queue manager, note that the queue won't be processed unless this queue manager is running.
* '''Preferences''' opens the [[hugin Preferences]] window.
* '''Quit''' hugin.

== Edit ==

* '''Undo''', undoes the most recent change to the current project.
* '''Redo''', redoes an undo.

== View ==

* '''Panorama Editor''' opens the Editor window where you have control over the various states a workflow is going through from a set of source images to the panorama.
* '''Full Screen''' shows this '''Hugin Main window''' using as much screen space as possible without any window decorations. Note that the [[Hugin Fast Preview window]] can also be set as full screen.
* '''Overview''' checkbox: Shows or hides the (docked) overview in the screen.
* '''Grid''' checkbox: Shows or hides the grid in the overview and preview canvas. (see [[ Hugin Assistant tab]]).

== Interface ==

* '''Simple''', this is the user interface this introduction is written for. It consists of all basic functionality to create a panorama and will suffice in 90% of all cases.
* '''Advanced''', this user interface that starts hugin in the Panorama Editor screen. The simple interface is available in the background.
* '''Expert''', this user interface also start hugin in the Panorama Editor screen and unleashes all the power and options of hugin.

== Help ==

* '''Help''' opens the [[hugin]] manual.
* '''Tip of the day'''
* '''Keyboard Shortcuts'''
* '''FAQ''', hugin [[hugin FAQ|Frequently asked questions]].
* '''About''' shows the [[Hugin About window]].
* '''Donate''' opens the Hugin donation page, there is no obligation to donate. Any donations are used for travel and promotion costs related to Hugin development.

[[Category:Software:Hugin]]

Extended bracketing control

2013-01-21T23:41:58Z

Erik Krause: /* Do-it-yourself */ blank

Shooting exposure bracketed gets more and more important for panorama creation, but most cameras still only support three brackets at 2EV steps maximum. But there are possibilities to work around this limitation. Many solutions support not only bracketing control but eventually many other features (timelaps, sound or light trigger etc). However, exposure bracketing is the main interest here.

This page is about how to extend the camera capabilities. If you look for general HDR information start at the [[HDR]] page.

= PTP bracketing =
[[w:Picture Transfer Protocol|Picture Transfer Protocol]] (PTP) is built into many cameras and should provide a means of not only transferring pictures over USB but also controlling the camera remotely. PTP is part of the [[w:Windows Image Acquisition|WIA]] architecture on Windows, hence it is fairly easy to build a camera control software using f.e. Visual Basic. For other OS's the [http://gphoto.org/ gphoto] project should provide access to such cameras. The gphoto project also collects informations what cameras can be remotely controlled and in what ways: http://gphoto.org/doc/remote/

Hence there are many programs to control your camera from a computer but only few that do the same from a portable device. However, availability of cheap USB host circuitry has triggered some do-it-yourself projects and apparently even some smartphones can use USB hosts nowadays.

== Supported cameras ==
Not all PTP enabled cameras implement all features. Hence it's impossible to tell which cameras can be used for PTP bracketing. The most complete list of cameras supporting PTP or other means of direct control is found in the [http://gphoto.org/proj/libgphoto2/support.php gphoto project]. If your camera is listed, there is a chance that one or the other software will support it. But it is still better to look on the vendor or developer page.

== Programs ==

=== Windows ===
* [http://www.breezesys.com/DSLRRemotePro/ DSLR remote pro] (commercial)
* [http://www.photoremote.de/en PhotoRemote] (free for non commercial use)
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://www.controlmynikon.com/ ControlMyNikon] works ith Nikon DSLRs only. (Commercial)
* [http://hartcw.com/ Smart Shooter] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras and is scriptable (Commercial)

=== Linux ===
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control

=== Mac OSX ===
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control
* [http://www.breezesys.com/DSLRRemotePro4Mac/ DSLR remote pro for Mac] (commercial)
* [http://www.sofortbildapp.com/ Sofortbild] Mac Tethered shooting (Freeware)
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://hartcw.com/ Smart Shooter] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras and is scriptable (Commercial)

== Devices ==
=== Commercial ===
* [http://www.promotesystems.com/ Promote control]
* [http://www.roundshot.ch/xml_1/internet/de/application/d438/d927/f1033.cfm Seitz Roundshot VR Drive 2 with HDR option]
* [http://www.okii.net/default.asp OKII USA] They sell 2USB controls, battery powered, they allow camera control and also very fine follow focusing control. Canon only.
* [http://www.pchood.com/3D%20USB%20Contoller Cinematics]They sell 2USB controls, battery powered, they allow camera control and also very fine follow focusing control, one of them is the unique one that controls 2 cameras for stereo3D photography or video making. Canon only.
* [http://opteka.com/ff1x.aspx Opteka FF1x] it is a simple, battery operated followfocus. No hdr functions or camera controls
* [http://www.camranger.com/ Camranger] is a small device plugging in the USB connector of several Nikon and Canon DSLRs allowing to control them wireless from an Ipad or Iphone.

=== Do-it-yourself ===
While the commercial devices above should be save (or at least offer some liability) there is a chance the DIY projects might hurt your camera. See [http://vimeo.com/groups/magiclantern/forum/topic:255083 this post] on the vimeo forum.
* [http://dslrsystems.com/ dslrsystems] is an arduino Bluetooth reciever with USB conection to Canon camera, chained with an Android smartphone app
* [http://www.circuitsathome.com/camera-control/digital-camera-control-using-arduino-usb-host-shield-part-1-basics Digital camera control using Arduino USB Host Shield] (DIY / open source)
* [http://xeqo.de/camcap-dslr-controller/ CamCap – DSLR Controller] Android tablet 3.1 app with live view that uses USB host mode
* [http://webuser.fh-furtwangen.de/~dersch/gphoto/remote.html project to control a camera using a network storage unit] running embedded linux by [[Helmut Dersch]]

===Raspberry Pi===
The [[w:Raspberry Pi]] is a very cheap yet complete ARM based single board computer the size of a credit card running Linux. This offers new and exciting possibilities. Some projects:
* [http://islandinthenet.com/2012/08/23/hdr-photography-with-raspberry-pi-and-gphoto2/ HDR photography with Raspberry Pi and gPhoto2] by Khürt Williams
* [http://davidhunt.ie/?p=2641 Camera Pi – DSLR Camera with Embedded Computer] by David Hunt (Timelaps and remote shooting but no HDR yet).

== Chained apps ==
Unfortunately very few smart devices have an USB host to control external readers, iOS would need a special circuitry attatched to their propretary port. Hence proliferation of tools claimed to coontrol the camera from a smartphone, that are more conveniently using a real computer as bridge.
The convenience is that the smart device controlling the camera operations is wirelessy connected to the bridge computer and can be a very valuable companion in studio work. Drawback is it comes more heavy on the field.

=== iOS + OSX ===
* [http://www.ononesoftware.com/products/dslr-camera-remote/ DSLR camera remote] A smartphone app and a program running on a PC connected to the camera.

=== Android + other ===
* [http://www.remoteyourcam.com/ remoteyourcam wifi] is compatible with Canon cameras, Nikon compatibility is still not provided. The server application is available for Mac OS X 10.5+ and Windows.
* [http://www.busywww.com/ cameraremote] Documentation is scarce, seems to act through bluetooth. Someone will have to test it.

== Android apps direct USB control ==
Few android apps are avaliable, chaining the full camera control with PTP protocol. Unfortunately only few smart devices are equipped with an USB host, and generally Android 3.1 is required. Till now only few Android can control the cameras directly. The solution is smart and lightweight, requires an USB cable linking your device with the camera, somehow limiting the action range.
* [http://dslrcontroller.com/ DSLcontroller] Android app to control Canon cameras
* [http://dslrsystems.com/ dslrsystems] is an Android smartphone app chained with an arduino Bluetooth reciever with USB conection to Canon camera
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://xeqo.de/camcap-dslr-controller/ CamCap] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://www.remoteyourcam.com/ remoteyourcam usb] is compatible with Canon and Nikon cameras,and remotes them via USB host.

= Bulb mode bracketing =
A much cheaper way to control a camera shutter is using bulb mode and opening and closing the shutter directly by cable or infrared. Unfortunately no short exposure times are possible since for fast times the second shutter curtain starts to close already while the first one is still not fully open. Hence bulb mode bracketing is limited to times slower than 1/120s to 1/4s depending on the camera, with fastest possible times getting unreliable. Great for night time HDR but nothing for daylight use where fast speeds are needed. There are lot's of DIY projects and many smartphone apps in this category.

== Supported cameras ==
Any camera that has a cable or infrared release and that supports bulb mode should work.

== Commercial ==
* [http://www.pclix.com/support/pclix-xt-support The PClix intervalometer] has the feature of a programmable shutter push length (to 99/100th sec) and programmable bulb length which can be combined with interval timing -- which makes it useful for continuous sequences of autobracketed bursts.

== Do-it-yourself ==
DIY bulb mode bracketing should be safe if you don't apply power to the connector.
* [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/hdr-jack/ HDR Jack] probably the smallest bracketing controller ever.
* [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/hdr-jack2/ HDR jack 2] improve version build into a standard cable release. There are other solutions with even more features on that page, too.
* [http://www.hdrlabs.com/occ/index.html Open Camera Controller] controlled by a Nintendo DS and build into a game cartridge, many features.
* [http://www.wegroo.com/photoirmote/ PhotoIRemote] controlled by smartphone using audio out using either a self modified cable or a self mad IR transmitter
* [http://newyorkpanorama.com/2009/01/21/long-exposure-night-hdr-photography-with-arduino/ Bracketmeister] Arduino project by Joergen Geerds

== Smartphone apps ==
* [https://triggertrap.com/ TriggerTrap] i-devices app with bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.dslrbot.com/ DSLR.bot] i-devices app with infrared bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.triggerhappyremote.com/ Trigger Happy] I-devices and android app plus cable bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.thegadgetworks.com/TL-Plus.html TL-Plus] Androide app that programs the [[Heads#AutoMate|AutoMate robotic panorama head]] which then does not only bulb mode bracketing or timelaps but also gigapixel shooting on it's own.

= Camera software hacks =
In-camera bracketing limits are mostly artificial. Where the camera software can be extended or replaced better functionality can be retrofitted. However, there is a small risk of malfunction or even permanent damage to your camera.

* [http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK CHDK] The Canon Hack Development Kit extends the firmware of Canon powershot cameras by many useful features among which is extended exposure bracketing. Also read the FAQ [http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/FAQ#Q._Can_CHDK_damage_your_camera.C2.A0.3F Can CHDK damage your camera?]
* [http://www.magiclantern.fm/ MagicLantern] A firmware hack for some Canon DSLRs providing not only bracketing but mainly extended video functionality. Also read the FAQ [http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/faq#is_it_safe "Is it safe?"]

= Other possibilities =
* Another idea of doc-diy is to [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/battery_grip/ butcher a battery grip] and emulate the dial wheel by a micro controller. This way exposure could be controlled simply and directly.

[[Category:Hardware]][[Category:Software:Survey]]

Fisheye Projection

2013-01-21T23:25:21Z

Erik Krause: unified with old version

{{Glossary|A projection where the distance from the centre of the image to a point is proportional to the equivalent spatial angle.}}
[[Image:big_ben_circ_fisheye.jpg|frame|right|Circular Fisheye projection, with permission from Ben Kreunen]]
[[Image:big_ben_ff_fisheye.jpg|frame|right|Fullframe Fisheye projection, with permission from Ben Kreunen]]

This is a class of [[Projections|projections]] for mapping a portion of the surface of a sphere to a flat image, typically a camera's film or detector plane. In a fisheye projection the distance from the centre of the image to a point is close to proportional to the true angle of separation.

Commonly there are two types of fisheye distinguished: circular [[fisheyes]] and fullframe [[fisheyes]]. However, both follow the same projection geometrics. The only difference is one of [[Field of View]]: for a circular fisheye the circular image fits (more or less) completely in the frame, leaving blank areas in the corner. For the full frame variety, the image is over-filled by the circular fisheye image, leaving no blank space on the film or detector. A circular fisheye can be made full frame if you use it with a smaller sensor/film size (and vice versa), or by zooming a fisheye adaptor on a zoom lens.

There is no single fisheye projection, but instead there are a class of projection transformation all referred to as ''fisheye'' by various lens manufacturers, with names like ''equisolid angle projection'', or ''equidistance fisheye''. Less common are traditional spherical projections which map to circular images, such as the [http://mathworld.wolfram.com/OrthographicProjection.html orthographic] (lenses commonly designated ''OP'') or [[Stereographic Projection|stereographic]] projections. Luckily, [[Panorama tools]] and [[Hugin]] can deal with most of these mentioned projections.

'''<math>\theta\,</math>''' is the angle in rad between a point in the real world and the optical axis, which goes from the center of the image through the center of the lens, <math>f</math> is the focal length of the lens and <math>R</math> is radial position of a point on the image on the film or sensor.

{| class="wikitable"
|-
! projection
! math
! real lenses, matching this projection
|-
| equidistant fisheye
| <math>R=f\cdot\theta</math>
| e.g. Peleng 8mm f/3.5 Fisheye
|-
| stereographic
| <math> R=2f\cdot \tan\left(\frac{\theta}{2}\right)</math>
| e.g. Samyang 8 mm f/3.5
|-
| orthographic
| <math> R=f\cdot \sin\left(\theta\right)</math>
| e.g. Yasuhara - MADOKA 180 circle fisheye lens
|-
| equisolid
(equal-area fisheye)
| <math> R=2f\cdot \sin\left(\frac{\theta}{2}\right)</math>
| e. g. Sigma 8mm f/4.0 AF EX, (also convex mirror)
|-
| Thoby fisheye
| <math> R=k_1\cdot f \cdot \sin\left(k_2\cdot\theta\right)</math>
with <math>k_1=1.47</math> and <math>k_2=0.713</math>
| e. g. AF DX Fisheye-Nikkor 10.5mm f/2.8G ED
(empirical found math for this lens)
|}

So for example 90 degrees, which would be the maximum
theta of a lens with 180 degree [[Field of View]], f=8mm, equisolid mapping, you get
R = 11.3mm, which is the radius of the image circle.

Btw, a rectilinear lens has a mapping
<math>R=f*tan(\theta)\,</math>

More information on [[fisheyes]] and their distortions from [http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/field_of_view.html Bob Atkins Photography]

(Content partly based on a mail by Helmut Dersch which can be found at W.J. Markerink's [http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/fishyfaq.htm page about fisheye analysis])
[[Category:Glossary]]

MediaWiki:Recaptcha-createaccount

2013-01-08T22:11:18Z

Erik Krause: more warnings to spammers

<div style="margin: 1em auto 1em 1em; padding:1em; background:#FFFF99;color:#aa0000;text-align:left;border: solid #FF3300;">

'''Please read carefully'''

As a contributor to the panotools wiki you are welcome! However, all content that has nothing to do with panotools, panorama creation or related topics - especially all kind of spam - will be immediately deleted. If you don't believe see [[Special:RecentChanges]]. Not a single spam page survived more than a few hours.
</div>

To help protect against automated account creation, please type the two words you see in the box below:

MediaWiki:Recaptcha-createaccount

2013-01-03T21:10:42Z

Erik Krause: readability

<div style="margin: 1em auto 1em 1em; padding:1em; background:#FFFF99;color:#aa0000;text-align:left;border: solid #FF3300;">

'''Please read carefully'''

As a contributor to the panotools wiki you are welcome! However, all content that has nothing to do with panotools, panorama creation or related topics - epecially all kind of spam - will be immediately deleted.
</div>

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2013-01-03T21:09:15Z

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2013-01-03T21:04:26Z

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Heads

2012-12-29T13:08:56Z

Erik Krause: /* Jobu Design */

{{Glossary|Rigs to mount a camera on a tripod in order to pan and tilt around the [[No-parallax point]]}}
== Off the shelf ==

There is a number of commercial panoramic tripod heads on the market, at widely varying prices. Panorama heads are actually very different kinds of animals and each manufacturer seems to have a different understanding about which functionality has to be part of such a head. Some are made of plastic or even "aircraft" aluminum, you might also fall in love with a stylish wooden head. The price range varies from "a round of beers" to something close to a visit on ISS. Some of them are a joke, a lot of them work nicely, some are specialised on certain body/lens combos, a few have that very professional wow factor. Choose yourself, and if unsure, don't hesitate to ask the members of [http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/PanoToolsNG/ Panotools NG] what fits your needs.

=== 360Precision ===

[http://www.360precision.com/ 360Precision] offer different panorama heads, all CNC machined but with that hand crafted touch. Very elegant products, and certainly more expensive than you might expect. but are very predictable panoramic heads. They are very sturdy and at the same time elegant.

The '''Absolute''' is a very plausible option for those that make panoramas frequently and with the same equipment each time. It is built to a specific body and specific lens combination, saving the photographer the need to find the entrance pupil for their lens and midpoint of the camera. Because of this, it is a very precise way to batch-create panoramas without needing to generate control points for each panorama. The sacrifice is that you lose the option of using a different combination of camera and lens with this head until you purchase an additional lens arm.

Although these limits may seem restrictive, the results are very, very predictable. One possible workflow includes calibrating a template in your software (hugin, PTGui, PTMac), and for every panorama afterward, apply the template and immediately skip to stitching. This saves you the time spent in generating and correcting control points in each panorama. For those that can save significant amounts of time and/or money by doing this, this head truly is a life saver. The generation of the template can be time consuming but may save you hours upon hours of post processing time compared to other solutions.

It is possible to upgrade the 360Precision in modular ways, for instance if you decide to use a different lens for your panoramas, you can order just the lens arm you need, or if you decide to use a different camera for panoramas, you can order just the different camera leg and use the same lens arm.

The '''Adjuste''' is nearly as strong as the Absolute but is easily adaptable for different camera / lens setups. The diameter of the rotating base is smaller which makes for a better (smaller) footprint if you shoot full spherical panoramas.

=== Agnos ===

[http://www.agnos.com Agnos] - Italian manufacturer of panoramic heads and accesories for panoramic photography. I bought an adapter for my fc-e9 fisheye adapter and it is very well built and of a good quality. They will also release (if they didn't yet) a new solution for creating a spherical pano out of 3 pics taken at 120 degrees each with a DSLR rotated at 45 degrees (!).

=== AutoMate ===

[http://www.thegadgetworks.com The Gadget Works] offers AutoMate, a motorized pan-tilt head that is unique in many ways. As the lightest (2 pounds/ 1 Kg) and most compact (4" x 5.5" x 4.5" / 100mm x 145mm x 115mm) robotic pano head on the market, it is particularly well suited for taking into the wilds. AutoMate was originally designed for making gigapixel landscape panos and works quite well for that purpose. It is not well suited for making interior panos or any pano where there are objects in focus closer than about 30 meters, due to parallax issues. The AutoMate controller is a phone or PDA with Bluetooth, but unlike other Bluetooth-controlled pano heads, the controller does not need to be connected to the head more than a few seconds, eliminating the problem of dropping the connection during the taking of the pano. This is because the app running on the smartphone generates a program based on the user's input and then sends that program to the head which contains a computer that saves the program in EEPROM memory. After receiving and storing the program, the robot's program reads it back out and executes the instructions to pan, tilt, half-press and full-press the shutter (electronically through the camera's remote shutter release port). The user can save the current settings on the smartphone, giving the file a memorable name for recalling again if they want to repeat the same process. Even more conveniently, the app remembers the most recent settings and uses them as the default settings set the next time they start up the phone app. There are two apps, one for Windows Mobile phones and one for Android phones. The Android app does not yet have the panorama feature and concentrates on timelapse and HDR. The Windows Mobile app has both panorama and timelapse features. Both apps have a programmer interface that allows the user to write their custom programs. The Windows Mobile app also has a trigger sensor that can be used for capturing the elusive snow leopard in her cave (just as an example :-).

=== Benro ===

[http://english.benro.cn/gimbalhead.aspx Benro ] offer a number of gimbal heads which could function as panorama brackets. The most recent is the [http://english.benro.cn/CpListGG.aspx?ParaId=0&id=87&ProductId=971 GH3], which incorporates a rotator and a gimbal mount.

=== Bogen ===

[http://www.bogenimaging.us/Jahia/home_page Bogen imaging] is now known as (see below) [[#Manfrotto|Manfrotto Distribution]].

=== Cambo ===

Dutch manufacturer [http://www.cambo.com/ Cambo] offers a panoramic head set [http://www.cambo.com/Html/products_photo/set01/english/internet/Item21908.html CLH-500] which has an integrated leveling mechanism and what looks like [[#L-brackets.2C_rails.2C_quick_release_plates|Arca-Swiss compatible]] quick release mounts.

=== DOBAS-01 and DOBAS-02 ===

see > [[#QTVR HEADS|QTVR HEADS]]

=== Fanotec ===
Fanotec, founded by developer and inventor Nick Fan, is based in Hong Kong. Fanotec manufactures the award winning [http://www.NodalNinja.com/ Nodal Ninja] panoramic tripod heads and accessories. They use high quality lightweight aluminum alloy and state of art CNC machining processes. Nodal Ninja is the only pano head built and refined from end user feedback over several years. From universal to specific model designs there are configurations to fit almost any camera and lenses and shooting style. Design objectives for all models include quality, ease of use, portability and price with some models starting at $179. These pano heads allow the user to produce virtually any type of panorama, from single row 360 degree cylindrical panoramas to multirow 360x180 degree spherical panoramas to multi-image mosaics like the super high resolution [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gigapixel_image gigapixel images]. Added features also include rail stops to remember
positioning of camera settings [http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_pupil no parallax point] and variable click stops so you can feel the rotational increments while rotating the head. All pano heads also allow for mounting a camera in landscape mode. The heads are available with the new CNC machined advanced rotators. The changing click stops on-the-fly is as easy as changing a knob from one whole to the next. Depending on rotator model click stops are available from 180
degrees to 3.75 degree click stops - the smallest click stop of any pano head rotator on the market. Fanotec currently builds 4 basic pano head model series combined with a choice of 4 different rotators.

'''Nodal Ninja 180:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja180.html NN180] is intended to simplify panoramas by allowing “single row” shooting only. This makes it ideal for uses of large diameter circular fisheye lenses such as the Sigma 4.5mm & 8mm, Sunex 5.6mm, and Nikon FC-E8/E9, IPIX, FC-E8/E9, Raynox, Samyang etc. You can also use longer focal length lenses for single row panoramas. '''--The NN180 has been discontinued.--'''

'''Nodal Ninja 3 series:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja3.html NN3-MKII] is an award winning pano head. Lightweight, compact and strong, great for those on the go and a popular choice
for Real Estate Photographers, hobbyists, hikers and travelers. This model supports most point and shoot cameras and many smaller DSLR’s.

'''Nodal Ninja 5/5L series:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja5.html NN5/5L] is built bigger and stronger and more precise supporting up to 22 lbs (10kgs). Fits all DSLR’s, including Nikon D3X and Canon MKII with or without battery grips, and even some medium format cameras. This series is best suited for both single row and multirow panoramas using wide angle to extremely long focal lengths lenses. The casting mold reached the end of its life span. It's successor, due out by end 2010, will be modular in design and built to even greater precision standards.

'''Nodal Ninja Ultimate R1 and R10:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/ultimate.html R1 and R10] is part of the new "Ultimate" line of CNC machined components. These are ring style pano heads which uses a lens clamping system. The ring attaches to the lens collar which in turn easily attaches to the head. It's important to note this clamping system does "not" interfere with the focusing capability of the lens. The unique cantilever design of the R1 is one-of-a-kind design and allows the user to select the best tilt option for their lens. By tilting the head up slightly, depending on lens, eliminates the need to shoot the zenith (up shot) for full spherical panoramas reducing both field and post production workflows. And the small diameter base leaves the photographer with an extremely small tripod footprint. This model is best suited for those using ultra wide fisheye lenses and when shooting very quick panoramas is paramount such as in populated areas. The R10
differs from R1 in that the tilt option is built in or static. Both R1 and R10 are available without rotators making them ideal for monopods and pole photography users as well.

'''Carbon Fiber Poles Series 1'''
[http://store.nodalninja.com/categories/Pano-Poles/ Pano Poles] Fanotec poles are easy to operate and carry. They can be extended to maximum height in minutes by pushing up and locking each telescoping section. Made of carbon fiber tubes, they are light-weight, portable and are ideal for on-the-go situations and areas not accessible to vehicle mounted units. Fanotec poles are modular in design. Users can start up with a small module and gradually build up the height by stacking it to a larger module. Each module can be used independently (additional parts needed), creating an array of short poles with different stiffness for different applications, such as horizontal pole for cliff panoramas. Features and Highlights: Thick cross-layered carbon fiber tubes for maximum rigidity and durability, light weight, compact in size - fit most cars and checked luggage, Anti-rotation system maintains rigid azimuth / yaw locking /accuracy, support a large range of DSLR, s3/8" stud and 3/8" female receiver for working with other accessories. (note: include link to pole listing)

Fanotec also manufactures the lightweight [http://nodalninja.com/products/ezlevelers.html EZ-Leveler-II] with or without built in rotators. These EZ-levelers are designed to help fine tune the leveling of a pano head.

=== Hama ===

Distributor of -> [[#Panamatic|Panamatic]]

=== Jasper ===

For me, the [http://www.stereoscopy.com/jasper/panorama.html Jasper Engineering] head has been an excellent value. At about $200, it's strong enough for serious 35mm or comparable digital cameras, which can be used horizontally or (with the included adapter) vertically. [[No-parallax point]] correction is horizontal and covers a variety of focal lengths as long as (I'm guessing) 135mm or more. Like so many heads, a bubble level is included, but hard to read when the head is set up at eye level. The builder will add custom touches very reasonably, In my case I put a Wimberly/Arca quick realease plate on the base. The base is machined aluminum; they provided a peel and stick piece of rubber for the base (to keep the plate from slipping) for about ten bucks.

Pivoting parts on this unit are tightened with cap screws which have patent caps on them to give more leverage in tightening. I ended up prying these off and taking a t-handle allen wrench with me. I'm using a D-70 and a 17-35 usually; a smaller camera would be fine without that extra step.

=== Jobu Design ===
Manufacturer of two high quality panoramic tripod heads that compare very well to other heads employing the Arca Swiss clamping system. <br> The [http://www.jobu-design.com/catalog/item/2588354/8921330.htm Jobu PGH-1] and a Manfrotto quick-release compatible version [http://www.jobu-design.com/catalog/item/2588354/9002527.htm PGH-KM1]. <br> The Arca Swiss clamping system is used on almost all the high end panoramic heads as it provides significantly better clamping pressure with less force and virtually no wear on moving parts. A [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnCDwLu-f1w review]

The fact that the focusing rail may protrude slightly into fisheye images has absolutely no effect as this "defect" is easily and automatically removed by any stitching software as long as the overlap is large enough.

=== Kaidan ===

[http://www.kaidan.com Kaidan] is no longer selling products and as of April 2009 filed Chapter 7 Bankruptcy. (see [[Media:KaidanBankruptcyFiling.jpg|screenshot]])

=== KingPano ===

[http://www.kingpano.com/ KingPano] is a very affordable pan/tilt head that allows for horizontal and vertical rotation around the no-parallax point i.e. for [[high resolution partial panoramas|multi row panoramas]].

===LinkDelight===

[http://www.linkdelight.com/ LinkDelight] is a vendor of photographic goods on eBay. They offer a [http://www.linkdelight.com/vmchk/Other-Tripods/Pro-360-Photography-Panoramic-Tripod-Head-Gimbal-Bracket-Kit/flypage.tpl.html Pro 360° Photography Panoramic Tripod Head & Gimbal Bracket Kit], also referred to as K7G, with a rotator with click stops at a number of different increments, set by a pin, and what appears to be the ability to make both vertical and horizontal panoramas, but it's not clear if it even works. What is clear is that the product photos show the camera mounted in a completely inappropriate position.

=== Manfrotto ===

A more expensive option is the Manfrotto 303SPH, a large, but well made head. It could double as a boat anchor! I (Rick) have the 303SPH and the Agnos mentioned below. Manfrotto has a site dedicated to their line of pano heads [http://www.manfrotto.com/303SPH/ Manfrotto 303SPH Mini-Site]. Some users complain that the head sags - I have not experienced this. This head can be used with virtually any lens / camera combination. I used to use it with the FC-E9 fisheye, but the head left too large of a footprint in the image.

Manfrotto has a service that helps to find the correct part number for [http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/spareparts/site/manfrotto/cache/offonce&t=R088Bg&e=qamwz1tcZOI spare parts] ([[Common_idiot_errors#Dropping_the_click-stop_selector_screw|...just in case you drop the click-stop selector screw]]).

Manfrotto used to be distributed by [http://www.bogenimaging.us/ Bogen Imaging] in some countries. They have now unified the name as Manfrotto Distribution.

=== memorycardsman ===

The FT-900H Precision 360 degrees Panoramic Tripod Head is marketed on eBay by vendor [http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZmemorycardsmanQQhtZ-1 memorycardsman]. It appears to offer both horizontal and vertical mounting, multi-row, and comes with a rotator with click stops every 45°. The [http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.foto-katalog.ru%2Fcomments%2F70880%2FFancier_FT_900H%2F only feedback] on this unit is in Russian (the link is translated with [http://translate.google.com/ Google translate]), and is extremely negative about the product quality.

=== MK PanoMachine / MK PanoHead ===
[http://www.marc-kairies.de/ MK Panorama Systeme], Germany, the new '''MK PanoMachine version 3.1''' is an automatic rotating VR head designed to move your camera from one shot to the next - the camera is released exactly in the right position. Version 3.1 has a new time-lapse mode as well as an integrated power management.

MK Panorama Systeme, Germany launched with the new '''MK PanoHead''' a fine mechanical precision and high-quality 360° panoramic tripod head on the world market.

Key features:

• Panoramic tripod head for the stitching of digital panoramas<br />
• Suited to create cylindrical, spherical and cubic panoramas as well as Multi-Row<br />
• 360° panoramic plate with pre adjustable scale and integrated circular bubble<br />
• Mount the MK PanoHead bracket alternatively on the Manfrotto MA 300 N or a 360° plate of your choice<br />
• Motorize the MK PanoHead bracket with the MK PanoMachine or ROUNDSHOT VR Drive (with adapter)<br />
• tilt up and down + / - 90° exactly in the no-parallax point (click-stops each 15°)<br />
• The MK PanoHead allows the use of heavy digital SLR cameras and medium format cameras<br />
• High-quality materials, fine mechanical work - Made in Germany<br />

The company also provides a rental service.

=== Nodal Ninja ===

see -> [[#Fanotec|Fanotec]] (above) Manufacturer of [http://www.nodalninja.com Nodal Ninja] Panoramic Heads and Rotators.

=== Novoflex ===
[http://www.novoflex.com/en/home/ Novoflex] is a German company with a good reputation in building high-precision photographic accessories.
The company offers now three different sets of already [http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/panorama-photography/ pre-assembled products] as well as [http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/panorama-photography/panorama-plate/ four different rotators].

All parts are built modular to be combine- and interchangeable with other parts from Novoflex. E.g. you can use a standard angle bracket or focusing rack as a part of your panohead setup. This makes it easy to create a custom panorama head that fits your specific needs. Also, it gives you the option to upgrade your setup - or easily re-order a broken part.

Works great with heavy gear.
===Owl===

The [http://www.xhia.de/owl.html Owl] panoramic head is a vertical mount head with a single horizontal rail. It does not allow moving the camera along the lens axis. Instead, it uses a second rotator to rotate the camera to position the no-parallax point above the axis of rotation of the adapter. The rail has a scale and the rotator has degree indications. The no-parallax point distance is the distance on the rail divided by the trigonometrical sine of the angle. Apparently this type of construction is meant for single-row panoramas only while providing a stable hold for heavier lens/camera combinations.

=== Panamatic ===

A more than affordable solution. Judging from information available at their [http://www.panamatic.com/ web site] this "head" is not only extremely inexpensive but also mostly useless. No way to mount a camera in a way so that the lens turns around it's NPP, and no click stops. The pan head of a standard tripod isn't worse but maybe more stable. Also marketed as [http://www.photoaxe.com/hama-panorama-kit/ Hama Panorama Kit]. Better try handheld shots...

As of October 2010, the domain panamatic.com appears to have been taken over by a domain squatter.

===Pano-MAXX===

[http://www.panorama-hardware.de/cgi-bin/framestore.cgi?action=link&sku=PM&lang=com pano-MAXX] is a low-cost German panorama head. It features multi-row vertical orientation and a rotator with click stops at 22.5°, 30° and 36° increments, more click stops selectable by changing a plate. The Pano-Maxx rail system is simple to adjust.

=== Panosaurus ===

Very affordable pan/tilt head which allows for horizontal and vertical rotation around the no-parallax point i.e. for [[high resolution partial panoramas|multi row panoramas]] are the, [http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm Panosaurus] and [http://www.kingpano.com/ KingPano].

=== Pinnacle VR ===

Priced towards the upper end of the middle ($499) is the Pinnacle VR Universal Pano Head that will work with any camera where the tripod hole is in the center of the lens axis. Using pin registration, it can accomodate cameras with or without battery grips attached and supports a wide range of lenses from fisheye to 135mm (on a full frame sensor, 80mm on an APS sized sensor). Details and sample sets of images with PTGui templates can be found at [http://www.pinnacle-vr.com/ Pinnacle VR]

=== PT4Pano ===

German manufacturer specialized on extremely lightweight and precise panorama heads with minimal footprint, optimized for single row panoramas with compact cameras. Different types of rotators and leveling plates (also combined in one product) should work with existing gear, e.g. L-brackets. They also offer a 1.2 ~ 4.1 m / 1.7 kg MonoPod with carbon tubes. [http://pt4pano.com/ PT4Pano.com]

=== QTVR HEADS ===

[http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/szynasmallwymiar.jpg DOBAS-01] and [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/cylindryczna2.jpg DOBAS-02] made by [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/indexen.htm QTVR HEADS POLAND] is high quality, reliable and easy in use panorama head in excellent . It is made of anodized aluminium and stainless steel - the highest quality materials with LIFETIME WARRANTY !!

With [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/indexen.htm DOBAS-01] panorama head you will be able to do single row 360 degree cylindrical panoramas as well as multirow 360x180 degree spherical panoramas, or mosaics. DOBAS-01 is "universal" fitting most point and shoot cameras, SLR's and DSLR's. It fits many medium to large format camera like BRONICA ETRSi. I used that pano head with heavy cameras like OLYMPUS E-1 + ZUIKO DIGITAL 8 or OLYMPUS E-3 + ZD8
Bubble level helps to keep whole system horizontally. Camera is mounted to the panorama head with standard 1/4'' screw. Wieght less 400 grams. Price (about 100$ or 80 EUR)

[http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/cylindryczna2.jpg DOBAS-02] panorama head is ultralight pano head for cylindrical panoramas. Wieght less 200 grams. Price (about 55$ or 45 EUR)

=== Really Right Stuff ===
[http://reallyrightstuff.com/pano/04.html RRS] panorama equipment is nicely machined, modular gear.

=== Rodeon VR ===
The [http://www.dr-clauss.de/RODEONVRHead_e.htm Rodeon VR Head] is a programmable pano head. Tilt and Rotation are motorised, all steps can be controlled using a Bluetooth device (Notebook or PDA).

=== Reviews ===
Various unbiased reviews are floating about on many of these panorama tripod heads:

'''360Precision''':
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=2 360 Rage] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/tipsntricks/2179 PanoGuide Forum] |
[http://www.chem.ox.ac.uk/oxfordtour/tutorial/index.asp?ID=40&pagename=360precision%20Adjuste Dr. Karl Harrison] |
[http://www.fromparis.com/html/technical_us_quicktime_vr_360precision_adjuste_head_part1.php Eric Rougier] |

'''Kaidan''':
[http://www.precomania.com/rating_getprodrev.php/product_id=9277958/id_type=M Precomania] |
[http://www.vrphotography.com/data/pages/casestudies/vrheadreview1103.html VRPhotography] Note: This is an older review |
[http://rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/quickpanpro/quickpanpro_review.html Rosauro Ona] |

'''KingPano''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/kingpano_review.htm Max Lyons / Tawbaware] |

'''Manfrotto 303SPH''':
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/303sph/303sph_review.html Rosauro Ona] |
[http://www.precomania.com/publicprofile.php/productreviews/userid=624974 Precomania] |
[http://www.vrphotography.com/data/pages/casestudies/vrheadreview1103.html VRPhotography] |

'''MK PanoMachine / MK PanoHead''':
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/mkpanohead/mkpanohead_review.html l Rosauro Ona] |

'''Nodal Ninja''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nodalninja_review.htm Max Lyons - NN1] |
[http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=93015 Canon Digital Photography - NN1] |
[http://www.pic.templetons.com/brad/pano/panorama-head.html Brad Templeton - NN2] |
[http://www.applelinks.com/index.php/more/nodal_ninja_3_review_of_camera_supporter_for_panomarama_photos/ Applelinks - NN3] |
[http://www.geek.com/fanotec-nodal-ninja-3-spherical-tripod-head/?welcome=true Josh Korwin - NN3] |
[http://www.fromparis.com/html/technical_us_quicktime_vr_small_nadir_hole.php Eric Rougier - NN3] |
[http://www.pixelmania.nl/artikel.aspx?rubriekid=2&artikelid=301 Pixelmania (dutch) - NN3] |
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=9 360 Rage - NN3] |
[http://www.galerie-photo.com/panoramique-nodal-ninja.html Thierry Rebours (french)- NN3] |
[http://www.camera2go.nl/digitale-camera/Dankzij-de-Nodal-Ninja-3-gemakkelijk-panorama-s-maken.html Cameraportal (dutch) - NN3] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/tipsntricks/1984/ John Houghton - NN3] |
[http://www.nodalninja.com/DPhotoUK_05_07_1024.jpg Digital Photography Magazine (May 07) - NN3] |
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/nn3/nn3_review.html Rosauro Ona - NN3 MKII] |
[http://www.photoproductsreviewed.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=7:tripods&id=106:nodal-ninja-3-mkii-full-spherical-multirow-panoramic-tripod-head Photo Products Reviewed - NN3 MKII] |
[http://www.vrmag.org/vartist/VR_industry/REVIEW_OF_NODAL_NINJA_NN3_AND_PREVIEW_OF_THE_NEW_NN5.html VRMag - NN3, NN5] |
[http://www.dslrusers.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34293 DSLR Users - NN5L] |
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nn5_review.html Max Lyons - NN5] |
[http://www.digitalmagasinet.dk/show.asp?ID=1571 Digital Magasinet (Dannish) - NN5] |
[http://www.amazon.com/Nodal-Spherical-Multirow-Panoramic-Tripod/dp/B001K38Y5O Amazon.com - NN5] |
[http://www.photo.it-enquirer.com/2008/09/11/nodal-ninja-nn5 IT Enquirer NN5] |
[http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/gadgets/246292/nodal-ninja-5-with-rotator-12 Expert Reviews - NN5 w/RD12] |
[http://www.newyorkpanorama.com/2010/09/16/nodal-ninja-review/ Joergen Geerds - NN5 w/RD16, EZ-Leveler-II] |
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nn5_review2.html/ Max Lyons - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.jorgphoto.com/2010/10/04/nodal-ninja-good-as-gold/ Andrew Jorgensen - R1 EZ-Leveler-II] |
[http://www.dentonimages.com/page.php?id=Fanotec_Nodal_Ninja_5_with_RD16_Rotator_Review Denton Images - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.opyd.net/brianopyd/index.php/articles/equipment/22-nn5rd16panoheadreview Brian Opyd - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.nodalninja.com/testimonials.html Customer Testimonials] |

'''Novoflex''':
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=12 360 Rage] |

'''Panosaurus''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/panosaurus_review.htm Tabaware] |
[http://panoramicearth.blogspot.com/2006/06/part-2-panorsaurus-head-review.html Peter Watts] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/qna/2467 Panoguide forum] |

'''Pinnacle VR''':
[http://www.seeit360.net/index.php?page=pvr Sacha Griffin] |

== Lens brackets ==
Another way to keep the lens/camera fixed to the [[no-parallax point]] are lens brackets that directly mounted onto the lens itself. The advantages are less vibrations but the drawback is that you need one bracket for each lens. They are a special type of a [[NPP adapters|no-parallax adapter]].

Some examples:

* Agnos [http://www.agnos.com/catalogo.htm?v_categ_lista=PR001-RINGT Lens ring]
* ''Atome'' series by [http://www.360precision.com/ 360Precision]
* Laser cut wooden brackets from [http://www.bophoto.com/bracket/ Pano Bracket from bophoto]
* Self made bracket from [http://homepage.mac.com/wkaemena/Nikon8Head.jpg Willy Kaemena]

== L-brackets, rails, quick release plates ==
A [http://www.afximages.com/stuff/arca-plates-xref.html compatibility table] lists different brands of '''Arca Swiss style''' plates (and their counterparts). This could help to combine already bought equipment with parts of a different manufacturer, e.g. an old Manfrotto rotator with an additional quick release plate could be connected with a Novoflex L-bracket...

== Self made ==

If you want to build our own pan/tilt head you might get some ideas from those shown below.

Multirow
* [http://www.panotools.org/dersch/heliarVR/heliarVR0.html Helmut Dersch]
* [http://www.erik-krause.de/panohead Erik Krause]
* [http://www.trozzreaxxion.net/misc/panorama/panorama.html Mike Runge (German)]
* [http://blog.robertbreuer.com/?p=16 Robert Breuer (German)]
* [http://www.dffe.at/panohead/ Bernhard Vogl]
* [http://www.nyfeler-mueller.ch/MonoPodHead/QTVR/MonopodHeadQTVR.html Peter Nyfeler/Monopod]
* [http://www.nyfeler-mueller.ch/PanoHeadMulti/PanoHeadMulti.html Peter Nyfeler/Tripod]
* [http://www.chem.uky.edu/xray/people/Parkin/panohead/panohead.html Sean Parkin (English)]
* [http://www.nodalsamurai.co.uk/nodalsamurai.html Pete Loud's Nodal Samurai]
* [http://www.scotthendershot.com/Panohead/UniversalPanoHead.htm Scott Hendershot]
* [http://www.pbase.com/atucker/image/40469012 Tom Sherry]
* [http://photocreations.ca/equipment/index.html Jim Watters]
* [http://www.360bilder.de/eng/nodalpoint.html Bernd Dohrmann]
* [http://www.worth1000.com/tutorial.asp?sid=161123&page=1 low cost wooden head by arodrix]
* [http://www.w3a2z.net/PHead/ John McAllister]
* [http://einem.net/tech/voigtlaender/ Carl von Einem]
* [http://www.milan-knizek.net/cms/panoramaticka-hlava-levne-reseni/ Milan Knížek (Czech)]
* [http://cartola.org/fotos/index-201010.php?dir=Diversas/Engenhocas/Cabeca_Tripe_Panoramica Carlos Eduardo Carvalho (Brazil)]
* [http://cartola.org/fotos/index-201010.php?dir=Diversas/Engenhocas/Cabeca_Tripe_Panoramica-v02 Carlos Eduardo Carvalho model #2 (Brazil)]
* [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2011/09/hinter-den-kulissen-der-panoramafotografie-teil-i-die-ausrustung-fur-die-panoramafotografie-im-selbstbau/ Tilman Bremer (German)]
* [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2011/09/panoramic-photography-revealed-part-i-hardware-for-panoramic-photography-diy/ Tilman Bremer (English)]
* [http://blog.pryds.eu/2012/07/build-your-own-panoramic-head-novice.html Thomas Pryds]
* [http://rasterweb.net/raster/projects/panohead/ Pete Prodoehl]

Single row
* [http://www.heiliger-net.de/panphoto/n_hardware.htm Panphoto.de (German)]
* [http://panorama.dyndns.org/panohead/simplest_panohead_ever.html Harry van der Wolf]
* [http://anthonygoh.webs.com/large-pano-head Anthony Goh (Singapore) ]
* [http://anthonygoh.webs.com/pano-head-for-micro-4-3 Anthony Goh compact version (Singapore)]

=== Material supply ===
Since you often can't get the popular aluminium profiles in your local do-it-yourself store here some possible suppliers:
* Item International http://www.item-international.com - Internationally active
* CAP http://www.aluprofil.com - situated in Austria
* MayTec http://www.maytec.org - situated in Germany
* KJN Aluminium Profile http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ - situated in UK
* TSlots Aluminium Profiles (metric and fraction) http://www.tslots.com/ - North America

A web search for "aluprofil" or "aluminium profile" might reveal other suppliers.

[[Category:Hardware]]

Heads

2012-12-29T11:54:08Z

Erik Krause: Reverted edits by Bryan00009 (talk) to last revision by Erik Krause

{{Glossary|Rigs to mount a camera on a tripod in order to pan and tilt around the [[No-parallax point]]}}
== Off the shelf ==

There is a number of commercial panoramic tripod heads on the market, at widely varying prices. Panorama heads are actually very different kinds of animals and each manufacturer seems to have a different understanding about which functionality has to be part of such a head. Some are made of plastic or even "aircraft" aluminum, you might also fall in love with a stylish wooden head. The price range varies from "a round of beers" to something close to a visit on ISS. Some of them are a joke, a lot of them work nicely, some are specialised on certain body/lens combos, a few have that very professional wow factor. Choose yourself, and if unsure, don't hesitate to ask the members of [http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/PanoToolsNG/ Panotools NG] what fits your needs.

=== 360Precision ===

[http://www.360precision.com/ 360Precision] offer different panorama heads, all CNC machined but with that hand crafted touch. Very elegant products, and certainly more expensive than you might expect. but are very predictable panoramic heads. They are very sturdy and at the same time elegant.

The '''Absolute''' is a very plausible option for those that make panoramas frequently and with the same equipment each time. It is built to a specific body and specific lens combination, saving the photographer the need to find the entrance pupil for their lens and midpoint of the camera. Because of this, it is a very precise way to batch-create panoramas without needing to generate control points for each panorama. The sacrifice is that you lose the option of using a different combination of camera and lens with this head until you purchase an additional lens arm.

Although these limits may seem restrictive, the results are very, very predictable. One possible workflow includes calibrating a template in your software (hugin, PTGui, PTMac), and for every panorama afterward, apply the template and immediately skip to stitching. This saves you the time spent in generating and correcting control points in each panorama. For those that can save significant amounts of time and/or money by doing this, this head truly is a life saver. The generation of the template can be time consuming but may save you hours upon hours of post processing time compared to other solutions.

It is possible to upgrade the 360Precision in modular ways, for instance if you decide to use a different lens for your panoramas, you can order just the lens arm you need, or if you decide to use a different camera for panoramas, you can order just the different camera leg and use the same lens arm.

The '''Adjuste''' is nearly as strong as the Absolute but is easily adaptable for different camera / lens setups. The diameter of the rotating base is smaller which makes for a better (smaller) footprint if you shoot full spherical panoramas.

=== Agnos ===

[http://www.agnos.com Agnos] - Italian manufacturer of panoramic heads and accesories for panoramic photography. I bought an adapter for my fc-e9 fisheye adapter and it is very well built and of a good quality. They will also release (if they didn't yet) a new solution for creating a spherical pano out of 3 pics taken at 120 degrees each with a DSLR rotated at 45 degrees (!).

=== AutoMate ===

[http://www.thegadgetworks.com The Gadget Works] offers AutoMate, a motorized pan-tilt head that is unique in many ways. As the lightest (2 pounds/ 1 Kg) and most compact (4" x 5.5" x 4.5" / 100mm x 145mm x 115mm) robotic pano head on the market, it is particularly well suited for taking into the wilds. AutoMate was originally designed for making gigapixel landscape panos and works quite well for that purpose. It is not well suited for making interior panos or any pano where there are objects in focus closer than about 30 meters, due to parallax issues. The AutoMate controller is a phone or PDA with Bluetooth, but unlike other Bluetooth-controlled pano heads, the controller does not need to be connected to the head more than a few seconds, eliminating the problem of dropping the connection during the taking of the pano. This is because the app running on the smartphone generates a program based on the user's input and then sends that program to the head which contains a computer that saves the program in EEPROM memory. After receiving and storing the program, the robot's program reads it back out and executes the instructions to pan, tilt, half-press and full-press the shutter (electronically through the camera's remote shutter release port). The user can save the current settings on the smartphone, giving the file a memorable name for recalling again if they want to repeat the same process. Even more conveniently, the app remembers the most recent settings and uses them as the default settings set the next time they start up the phone app. There are two apps, one for Windows Mobile phones and one for Android phones. The Android app does not yet have the panorama feature and concentrates on timelapse and HDR. The Windows Mobile app has both panorama and timelapse features. Both apps have a programmer interface that allows the user to write their custom programs. The Windows Mobile app also has a trigger sensor that can be used for capturing the elusive snow leopard in her cave (just as an example :-).

=== Benro ===

[http://english.benro.cn/gimbalhead.aspx Benro ] offer a number of gimbal heads which could function as panorama brackets. The most recent is the [http://english.benro.cn/CpListGG.aspx?ParaId=0&id=87&ProductId=971 GH3], which incorporates a rotator and a gimbal mount.

=== Bogen ===

[http://www.bogenimaging.us/Jahia/home_page Bogen imaging] is now known as (see below) [[#Manfrotto|Manfrotto Distribution]].

=== Cambo ===

Dutch manufacturer [http://www.cambo.com/ Cambo] offers a panoramic head set [http://www.cambo.com/Html/products_photo/set01/english/internet/Item21908.html CLH-500] which has an integrated leveling mechanism and what looks like [[#L-brackets.2C_rails.2C_quick_release_plates|Arca-Swiss compatible]] quick release mounts.

=== DOBAS-01 and DOBAS-02 ===

see > [[#QTVR HEADS|QTVR HEADS]]

=== Fanotec ===
Fanotec, founded by developer and inventor Nick Fan, is based in Hong Kong. Fanotec manufactures the award winning [http://www.NodalNinja.com/ Nodal Ninja] panoramic tripod heads and accessories. They use high quality lightweight aluminum alloy and state of art CNC machining processes. Nodal Ninja is the only pano head built and refined from end user feedback over several years. From universal to specific model designs there are configurations to fit almost any camera and lenses and shooting style. Design objectives for all models include quality, ease of use, portability and price with some models starting at $179. These pano heads allow the user to produce virtually any type of panorama, from single row 360 degree cylindrical panoramas to multirow 360x180 degree spherical panoramas to multi-image mosaics like the super high resolution [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gigapixel_image gigapixel images]. Added features also include rail stops to remember
positioning of camera settings [http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_pupil no parallax point] and variable click stops so you can feel the rotational increments while rotating the head. All pano heads also allow for mounting a camera in landscape mode. The heads are available with the new CNC machined advanced rotators. The changing click stops on-the-fly is as easy as changing a knob from one whole to the next. Depending on rotator model click stops are available from 180
degrees to 3.75 degree click stops - the smallest click stop of any pano head rotator on the market. Fanotec currently builds 4 basic pano head model series combined with a choice of 4 different rotators.

'''Nodal Ninja 180:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja180.html NN180] is intended to simplify panoramas by allowing “single row” shooting only. This makes it ideal for uses of large diameter circular fisheye lenses such as the Sigma 4.5mm & 8mm, Sunex 5.6mm, and Nikon FC-E8/E9, IPIX, FC-E8/E9, Raynox, Samyang etc. You can also use longer focal length lenses for single row panoramas. '''--The NN180 has been discontinued.--'''

'''Nodal Ninja 3 series:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja3.html NN3-MKII] is an award winning pano head. Lightweight, compact and strong, great for those on the go and a popular choice
for Real Estate Photographers, hobbyists, hikers and travelers. This model supports most point and shoot cameras and many smaller DSLR’s.

'''Nodal Ninja 5/5L series:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja5.html NN5/5L] is built bigger and stronger and more precise supporting up to 22 lbs (10kgs). Fits all DSLR’s, including Nikon D3X and Canon MKII with or without battery grips, and even some medium format cameras. This series is best suited for both single row and multirow panoramas using wide angle to extremely long focal lengths lenses. The casting mold reached the end of its life span. It's successor, due out by end 2010, will be modular in design and built to even greater precision standards.

'''Nodal Ninja Ultimate R1 and R10:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/ultimate.html R1 and R10] is part of the new "Ultimate" line of CNC machined components. These are ring style pano heads which uses a lens clamping system. The ring attaches to the lens collar which in turn easily attaches to the head. It's important to note this clamping system does "not" interfere with the focusing capability of the lens. The unique cantilever design of the R1 is one-of-a-kind design and allows the user to select the best tilt option for their lens. By tilting the head up slightly, depending on lens, eliminates the need to shoot the zenith (up shot) for full spherical panoramas reducing both field and post production workflows. And the small diameter base leaves the photographer with an extremely small tripod footprint. This model is best suited for those using ultra wide fisheye lenses and when shooting very quick panoramas is paramount such as in populated areas. The R10
differs from R1 in that the tilt option is built in or static. Both R1 and R10 are available without rotators making them ideal for monopods and pole photography users as well.

'''Carbon Fiber Poles Series 1'''
[http://store.nodalninja.com/categories/Pano-Poles/ Pano Poles] Fanotec poles are easy to operate and carry. They can be extended to maximum height in minutes by pushing up and locking each telescoping section. Made of carbon fiber tubes, they are light-weight, portable and are ideal for on-the-go situations and areas not accessible to vehicle mounted units. Fanotec poles are modular in design. Users can start up with a small module and gradually build up the height by stacking it to a larger module. Each module can be used independently (additional parts needed), creating an array of short poles with different stiffness for different applications, such as horizontal pole for cliff panoramas. Features and Highlights: Thick cross-layered carbon fiber tubes for maximum rigidity and durability, light weight, compact in size - fit most cars and checked luggage, Anti-rotation system maintains rigid azimuth / yaw locking /accuracy, support a large range of DSLR, s3/8" stud and 3/8" female receiver for working with other accessories. (note: include link to pole listing)

Fanotec also manufactures the lightweight [http://nodalninja.com/products/ezlevelers.html EZ-Leveler-II] with or without built in rotators. These EZ-levelers are designed to help fine tune the leveling of a pano head.

=== Hama ===

Distributor of -> [[#Panamatic|Panamatic]]

=== Jasper ===

For me, the [http://www.stereoscopy.com/jasper/panorama.html Jasper Engineering] head has been an excellent value. At about $200, it's strong enough for serious 35mm or comparable digital cameras, which can be used horizontally or (with the included adapter) vertically. [[No-parallax point]] correction is horizontal and covers a variety of focal lengths as long as (I'm guessing) 135mm or more. Like so many heads, a bubble level is included, but hard to read when the head is set up at eye level. The builder will add custom touches very reasonably, In my case I put a Wimberly/Arca quick realease plate on the base. The base is machined aluminum; they provided a peel and stick piece of rubber for the base (to keep the plate from slipping) for about ten bucks.

Pivoting parts on this unit are tightened with cap screws which have patent caps on them to give more leverage in tightening. I ended up prying these off and taking a t-handle allen wrench with me. I'm using a D-70 and a 17-35 usually; a smaller camera would be fine without that extra step.

=== Jobu Design ===
Manufacturer of two high quality panoramic tripod heads that compare very well to other heads employing the Arca Swiss clamping system. <br> The [http://www.jobu-design.com/catalog/item/2588354/8921330.htm Jobu PGH-1] and a Manfrotto quick-release compatible version [http://www.jobu-design.com/catalog/item/2588354/9002527.htm PGH-KM1]. <br> The Arca Swiss clamping system is used on almost all the high end panoramic heads as it provides significantly better clamping pressure with less force and virtually no wear on moving parts. A [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnCDwLu-f1w review]

However, the vertical arm protrudes pretty much in front of the rotation axis. For short fisheye lenses it may extend in the image.

=== Kaidan ===

[http://www.kaidan.com Kaidan] is no longer selling products and as of April 2009 filed Chapter 7 Bankruptcy. (see [[Media:KaidanBankruptcyFiling.jpg|screenshot]])

=== KingPano ===

[http://www.kingpano.com/ KingPano] is a very affordable pan/tilt head that allows for horizontal and vertical rotation around the no-parallax point i.e. for [[high resolution partial panoramas|multi row panoramas]].

===LinkDelight===

[http://www.linkdelight.com/ LinkDelight] is a vendor of photographic goods on eBay. They offer a [http://www.linkdelight.com/vmchk/Other-Tripods/Pro-360-Photography-Panoramic-Tripod-Head-Gimbal-Bracket-Kit/flypage.tpl.html Pro 360° Photography Panoramic Tripod Head & Gimbal Bracket Kit], also referred to as K7G, with a rotator with click stops at a number of different increments, set by a pin, and what appears to be the ability to make both vertical and horizontal panoramas, but it's not clear if it even works. What is clear is that the product photos show the camera mounted in a completely inappropriate position.

=== Manfrotto ===

A more expensive option is the Manfrotto 303SPH, a large, but well made head. It could double as a boat anchor! I (Rick) have the 303SPH and the Agnos mentioned below. Manfrotto has a site dedicated to their line of pano heads [http://www.manfrotto.com/303SPH/ Manfrotto 303SPH Mini-Site]. Some users complain that the head sags - I have not experienced this. This head can be used with virtually any lens / camera combination. I used to use it with the FC-E9 fisheye, but the head left too large of a footprint in the image.

Manfrotto has a service that helps to find the correct part number for [http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/spareparts/site/manfrotto/cache/offonce&t=R088Bg&e=qamwz1tcZOI spare parts] ([[Common_idiot_errors#Dropping_the_click-stop_selector_screw|...just in case you drop the click-stop selector screw]]).

Manfrotto used to be distributed by [http://www.bogenimaging.us/ Bogen Imaging] in some countries. They have now unified the name as Manfrotto Distribution.

=== memorycardsman ===

The FT-900H Precision 360 degrees Panoramic Tripod Head is marketed on eBay by vendor [http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZmemorycardsmanQQhtZ-1 memorycardsman]. It appears to offer both horizontal and vertical mounting, multi-row, and comes with a rotator with click stops every 45°. The [http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.foto-katalog.ru%2Fcomments%2F70880%2FFancier_FT_900H%2F only feedback] on this unit is in Russian (the link is translated with [http://translate.google.com/ Google translate]), and is extremely negative about the product quality.

=== MK PanoMachine / MK PanoHead ===
[http://www.marc-kairies.de/ MK Panorama Systeme], Germany, the new '''MK PanoMachine version 3.1''' is an automatic rotating VR head designed to move your camera from one shot to the next - the camera is released exactly in the right position. Version 3.1 has a new time-lapse mode as well as an integrated power management.

MK Panorama Systeme, Germany launched with the new '''MK PanoHead''' a fine mechanical precision and high-quality 360° panoramic tripod head on the world market.

Key features:

• Panoramic tripod head for the stitching of digital panoramas<br />
• Suited to create cylindrical, spherical and cubic panoramas as well as Multi-Row<br />
• 360° panoramic plate with pre adjustable scale and integrated circular bubble<br />
• Mount the MK PanoHead bracket alternatively on the Manfrotto MA 300 N or a 360° plate of your choice<br />
• Motorize the MK PanoHead bracket with the MK PanoMachine or ROUNDSHOT VR Drive (with adapter)<br />
• tilt up and down + / - 90° exactly in the no-parallax point (click-stops each 15°)<br />
• The MK PanoHead allows the use of heavy digital SLR cameras and medium format cameras<br />
• High-quality materials, fine mechanical work - Made in Germany<br />

The company also provides a rental service.

=== Nodal Ninja ===

see -> [[#Fanotec|Fanotec]] (above) Manufacturer of [http://www.nodalninja.com Nodal Ninja] Panoramic Heads and Rotators.

=== Novoflex ===
[http://www.novoflex.com/en/home/ Novoflex] is a German company with a good reputation in building high-precision photographic accessories.
The company offers now three different sets of already [http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/panorama-photography/ pre-assembled products] as well as [http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/panorama-photography/panorama-plate/ four different rotators].

All parts are built modular to be combine- and interchangeable with other parts from Novoflex. E.g. you can use a standard angle bracket or focusing rack as a part of your panohead setup. This makes it easy to create a custom panorama head that fits your specific needs. Also, it gives you the option to upgrade your setup - or easily re-order a broken part.

Works great with heavy gear.
===Owl===

The [http://www.xhia.de/owl.html Owl] panoramic head is a vertical mount head with a single horizontal rail. It does not allow moving the camera along the lens axis. Instead, it uses a second rotator to rotate the camera to position the no-parallax point above the axis of rotation of the adapter. The rail has a scale and the rotator has degree indications. The no-parallax point distance is the distance on the rail divided by the trigonometrical sine of the angle. Apparently this type of construction is meant for single-row panoramas only while providing a stable hold for heavier lens/camera combinations.

=== Panamatic ===

A more than affordable solution. Judging from information available at their [http://www.panamatic.com/ web site] this "head" is not only extremely inexpensive but also mostly useless. No way to mount a camera in a way so that the lens turns around it's NPP, and no click stops. The pan head of a standard tripod isn't worse but maybe more stable. Also marketed as [http://www.photoaxe.com/hama-panorama-kit/ Hama Panorama Kit]. Better try handheld shots...

As of October 2010, the domain panamatic.com appears to have been taken over by a domain squatter.

===Pano-MAXX===

[http://www.panorama-hardware.de/cgi-bin/framestore.cgi?action=link&sku=PM&lang=com pano-MAXX] is a low-cost German panorama head. It features multi-row vertical orientation and a rotator with click stops at 22.5°, 30° and 36° increments, more click stops selectable by changing a plate. The Pano-Maxx rail system is simple to adjust.

=== Panosaurus ===

Very affordable pan/tilt head which allows for horizontal and vertical rotation around the no-parallax point i.e. for [[high resolution partial panoramas|multi row panoramas]] are the, [http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm Panosaurus] and [http://www.kingpano.com/ KingPano].

=== Pinnacle VR ===

Priced towards the upper end of the middle ($499) is the Pinnacle VR Universal Pano Head that will work with any camera where the tripod hole is in the center of the lens axis. Using pin registration, it can accomodate cameras with or without battery grips attached and supports a wide range of lenses from fisheye to 135mm (on a full frame sensor, 80mm on an APS sized sensor). Details and sample sets of images with PTGui templates can be found at [http://www.pinnacle-vr.com/ Pinnacle VR]

=== PT4Pano ===

German manufacturer specialized on extremely lightweight and precise panorama heads with minimal footprint, optimized for single row panoramas with compact cameras. Different types of rotators and leveling plates (also combined in one product) should work with existing gear, e.g. L-brackets. They also offer a 1.2 ~ 4.1 m / 1.7 kg MonoPod with carbon tubes. [http://pt4pano.com/ PT4Pano.com]

=== QTVR HEADS ===

[http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/szynasmallwymiar.jpg DOBAS-01] and [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/cylindryczna2.jpg DOBAS-02] made by [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/indexen.htm QTVR HEADS POLAND] is high quality, reliable and easy in use panorama head in excellent . It is made of anodized aluminium and stainless steel - the highest quality materials with LIFETIME WARRANTY !!

With [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/indexen.htm DOBAS-01] panorama head you will be able to do single row 360 degree cylindrical panoramas as well as multirow 360x180 degree spherical panoramas, or mosaics. DOBAS-01 is "universal" fitting most point and shoot cameras, SLR's and DSLR's. It fits many medium to large format camera like BRONICA ETRSi. I used that pano head with heavy cameras like OLYMPUS E-1 + ZUIKO DIGITAL 8 or OLYMPUS E-3 + ZD8
Bubble level helps to keep whole system horizontally. Camera is mounted to the panorama head with standard 1/4'' screw. Wieght less 400 grams. Price (about 100$ or 80 EUR)

[http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/cylindryczna2.jpg DOBAS-02] panorama head is ultralight pano head for cylindrical panoramas. Wieght less 200 grams. Price (about 55$ or 45 EUR)

=== Really Right Stuff ===
[http://reallyrightstuff.com/pano/04.html RRS] panorama equipment is nicely machined, modular gear.

=== Rodeon VR ===
The [http://www.dr-clauss.de/RODEONVRHead_e.htm Rodeon VR Head] is a programmable pano head. Tilt and Rotation are motorised, all steps can be controlled using a Bluetooth device (Notebook or PDA).

=== Reviews ===
Various unbiased reviews are floating about on many of these panorama tripod heads:

'''360Precision''':
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=2 360 Rage] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/tipsntricks/2179 PanoGuide Forum] |
[http://www.chem.ox.ac.uk/oxfordtour/tutorial/index.asp?ID=40&pagename=360precision%20Adjuste Dr. Karl Harrison] |
[http://www.fromparis.com/html/technical_us_quicktime_vr_360precision_adjuste_head_part1.php Eric Rougier] |

'''Kaidan''':
[http://www.precomania.com/rating_getprodrev.php/product_id=9277958/id_type=M Precomania] |
[http://www.vrphotography.com/data/pages/casestudies/vrheadreview1103.html VRPhotography] Note: This is an older review |
[http://rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/quickpanpro/quickpanpro_review.html Rosauro Ona] |

'''KingPano''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/kingpano_review.htm Max Lyons / Tawbaware] |

'''Manfrotto 303SPH''':
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/303sph/303sph_review.html Rosauro Ona] |
[http://www.precomania.com/publicprofile.php/productreviews/userid=624974 Precomania] |
[http://www.vrphotography.com/data/pages/casestudies/vrheadreview1103.html VRPhotography] |

'''MK PanoMachine / MK PanoHead''':
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/mkpanohead/mkpanohead_review.html l Rosauro Ona] |

'''Nodal Ninja''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nodalninja_review.htm Max Lyons - NN1] |
[http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=93015 Canon Digital Photography - NN1] |
[http://www.pic.templetons.com/brad/pano/panorama-head.html Brad Templeton - NN2] |
[http://www.applelinks.com/index.php/more/nodal_ninja_3_review_of_camera_supporter_for_panomarama_photos/ Applelinks - NN3] |
[http://www.geek.com/fanotec-nodal-ninja-3-spherical-tripod-head/?welcome=true Josh Korwin - NN3] |
[http://www.fromparis.com/html/technical_us_quicktime_vr_small_nadir_hole.php Eric Rougier - NN3] |
[http://www.pixelmania.nl/artikel.aspx?rubriekid=2&artikelid=301 Pixelmania (dutch) - NN3] |
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=9 360 Rage - NN3] |
[http://www.galerie-photo.com/panoramique-nodal-ninja.html Thierry Rebours (french)- NN3] |
[http://www.camera2go.nl/digitale-camera/Dankzij-de-Nodal-Ninja-3-gemakkelijk-panorama-s-maken.html Cameraportal (dutch) - NN3] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/tipsntricks/1984/ John Houghton - NN3] |
[http://www.nodalninja.com/DPhotoUK_05_07_1024.jpg Digital Photography Magazine (May 07) - NN3] |
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/nn3/nn3_review.html Rosauro Ona - NN3 MKII] |
[http://www.photoproductsreviewed.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=7:tripods&id=106:nodal-ninja-3-mkii-full-spherical-multirow-panoramic-tripod-head Photo Products Reviewed - NN3 MKII] |
[http://www.vrmag.org/vartist/VR_industry/REVIEW_OF_NODAL_NINJA_NN3_AND_PREVIEW_OF_THE_NEW_NN5.html VRMag - NN3, NN5] |
[http://www.dslrusers.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34293 DSLR Users - NN5L] |
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nn5_review.html Max Lyons - NN5] |
[http://www.digitalmagasinet.dk/show.asp?ID=1571 Digital Magasinet (Dannish) - NN5] |
[http://www.amazon.com/Nodal-Spherical-Multirow-Panoramic-Tripod/dp/B001K38Y5O Amazon.com - NN5] |
[http://www.photo.it-enquirer.com/2008/09/11/nodal-ninja-nn5 IT Enquirer NN5] |
[http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/gadgets/246292/nodal-ninja-5-with-rotator-12 Expert Reviews - NN5 w/RD12] |
[http://www.newyorkpanorama.com/2010/09/16/nodal-ninja-review/ Joergen Geerds - NN5 w/RD16, EZ-Leveler-II] |
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nn5_review2.html/ Max Lyons - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.jorgphoto.com/2010/10/04/nodal-ninja-good-as-gold/ Andrew Jorgensen - R1 EZ-Leveler-II] |
[http://www.dentonimages.com/page.php?id=Fanotec_Nodal_Ninja_5_with_RD16_Rotator_Review Denton Images - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.opyd.net/brianopyd/index.php/articles/equipment/22-nn5rd16panoheadreview Brian Opyd - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.nodalninja.com/testimonials.html Customer Testimonials] |

'''Novoflex''':
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=12 360 Rage] |

'''Panosaurus''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/panosaurus_review.htm Tabaware] |
[http://panoramicearth.blogspot.com/2006/06/part-2-panorsaurus-head-review.html Peter Watts] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/qna/2467 Panoguide forum] |

'''Pinnacle VR''':
[http://www.seeit360.net/index.php?page=pvr Sacha Griffin] |

== Lens brackets ==
Another way to keep the lens/camera fixed to the [[no-parallax point]] are lens brackets that directly mounted onto the lens itself. The advantages are less vibrations but the drawback is that you need one bracket for each lens. They are a special type of a [[NPP adapters|no-parallax adapter]].

Some examples:

* Agnos [http://www.agnos.com/catalogo.htm?v_categ_lista=PR001-RINGT Lens ring]
* ''Atome'' series by [http://www.360precision.com/ 360Precision]
* Laser cut wooden brackets from [http://www.bophoto.com/bracket/ Pano Bracket from bophoto]
* Self made bracket from [http://homepage.mac.com/wkaemena/Nikon8Head.jpg Willy Kaemena]

== L-brackets, rails, quick release plates ==
A [http://www.afximages.com/stuff/arca-plates-xref.html compatibility table] lists different brands of '''Arca Swiss style''' plates (and their counterparts). This could help to combine already bought equipment with parts of a different manufacturer, e.g. an old Manfrotto rotator with an additional quick release plate could be connected with a Novoflex L-bracket...

== Self made ==

If you want to build our own pan/tilt head you might get some ideas from those shown below.

Multirow
* [http://www.panotools.org/dersch/heliarVR/heliarVR0.html Helmut Dersch]
* [http://www.erik-krause.de/panohead Erik Krause]
* [http://www.trozzreaxxion.net/misc/panorama/panorama.html Mike Runge (German)]
* [http://blog.robertbreuer.com/?p=16 Robert Breuer (German)]
* [http://www.dffe.at/panohead/ Bernhard Vogl]
* [http://www.nyfeler-mueller.ch/MonoPodHead/QTVR/MonopodHeadQTVR.html Peter Nyfeler/Monopod]
* [http://www.nyfeler-mueller.ch/PanoHeadMulti/PanoHeadMulti.html Peter Nyfeler/Tripod]
* [http://www.chem.uky.edu/xray/people/Parkin/panohead/panohead.html Sean Parkin (English)]
* [http://www.nodalsamurai.co.uk/nodalsamurai.html Pete Loud's Nodal Samurai]
* [http://www.scotthendershot.com/Panohead/UniversalPanoHead.htm Scott Hendershot]
* [http://www.pbase.com/atucker/image/40469012 Tom Sherry]
* [http://photocreations.ca/equipment/index.html Jim Watters]
* [http://www.360bilder.de/eng/nodalpoint.html Bernd Dohrmann]
* [http://www.worth1000.com/tutorial.asp?sid=161123&page=1 low cost wooden head by arodrix]
* [http://www.w3a2z.net/PHead/ John McAllister]
* [http://einem.net/tech/voigtlaender/ Carl von Einem]
* [http://www.milan-knizek.net/cms/panoramaticka-hlava-levne-reseni/ Milan Knížek (Czech)]
* [http://cartola.org/fotos/index-201010.php?dir=Diversas/Engenhocas/Cabeca_Tripe_Panoramica Carlos Eduardo Carvalho (Brazil)]
* [http://cartola.org/fotos/index-201010.php?dir=Diversas/Engenhocas/Cabeca_Tripe_Panoramica-v02 Carlos Eduardo Carvalho model #2 (Brazil)]
* [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2011/09/hinter-den-kulissen-der-panoramafotografie-teil-i-die-ausrustung-fur-die-panoramafotografie-im-selbstbau/ Tilman Bremer (German)]
* [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2011/09/panoramic-photography-revealed-part-i-hardware-for-panoramic-photography-diy/ Tilman Bremer (English)]
* [http://blog.pryds.eu/2012/07/build-your-own-panoramic-head-novice.html Thomas Pryds]
* [http://rasterweb.net/raster/projects/panohead/ Pete Prodoehl]

Single row
* [http://www.heiliger-net.de/panphoto/n_hardware.htm Panphoto.de (German)]
* [http://panorama.dyndns.org/panohead/simplest_panohead_ever.html Harry van der Wolf]
* [http://anthonygoh.webs.com/large-pano-head Anthony Goh (Singapore) ]
* [http://anthonygoh.webs.com/pano-head-for-micro-4-3 Anthony Goh compact version (Singapore)]

=== Material supply ===
Since you often can't get the popular aluminium profiles in your local do-it-yourself store here some possible suppliers:
* Item International http://www.item-international.com - Internationally active
* CAP http://www.aluprofil.com - situated in Austria
* MayTec http://www.maytec.org - situated in Germany
* KJN Aluminium Profile http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ - situated in UK
* TSlots Aluminium Profiles (metric and fraction) http://www.tslots.com/ - North America

A web search for "aluprofil" or "aluminium profile" might reveal other suppliers.

[[Category:Hardware]]

Heads

2012-12-28T22:47:46Z

Erik Krause: /* Jobu Design */ some observation

{{Glossary|Rigs to mount a camera on a tripod in order to pan and tilt around the [[No-parallax point]]}}
== Off the shelf ==

There is a number of commercial panoramic tripod heads on the market, at widely varying prices. Panorama heads are actually very different kinds of animals and each manufacturer seems to have a different understanding about which functionality has to be part of such a head. Some are made of plastic or even "aircraft" aluminum, you might also fall in love with a stylish wooden head. The price range varies from "a round of beers" to something close to a visit on ISS. Some of them are a joke, a lot of them work nicely, some are specialised on certain body/lens combos, a few have that very professional wow factor. Choose yourself, and if unsure, don't hesitate to ask the members of [http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/PanoToolsNG/ Panotools NG] what fits your needs.

=== 360Precision ===

[http://www.360precision.com/ 360Precision] offer different panorama heads, all CNC machined but with that hand crafted touch. Very elegant products, and certainly more expensive than you might expect. but are very predictable panoramic heads. They are very sturdy and at the same time elegant.

The '''Absolute''' is a very plausible option for those that make panoramas frequently and with the same equipment each time. It is built to a specific body and specific lens combination, saving the photographer the need to find the entrance pupil for their lens and midpoint of the camera. Because of this, it is a very precise way to batch-create panoramas without needing to generate control points for each panorama. The sacrifice is that you lose the option of using a different combination of camera and lens with this head until you purchase an additional lens arm.

Although these limits may seem restrictive, the results are very, very predictable. One possible workflow includes calibrating a template in your software (hugin, PTGui, PTMac), and for every panorama afterward, apply the template and immediately skip to stitching. This saves you the time spent in generating and correcting control points in each panorama. For those that can save significant amounts of time and/or money by doing this, this head truly is a life saver. The generation of the template can be time consuming but may save you hours upon hours of post processing time compared to other solutions.

It is possible to upgrade the 360Precision in modular ways, for instance if you decide to use a different lens for your panoramas, you can order just the lens arm you need, or if you decide to use a different camera for panoramas, you can order just the different camera leg and use the same lens arm.

The '''Adjuste''' is nearly as strong as the Absolute but is easily adaptable for different camera / lens setups. The diameter of the rotating base is smaller which makes for a better (smaller) footprint if you shoot full spherical panoramas.

=== Agnos ===

[http://www.agnos.com Agnos] - Italian manufacturer of panoramic heads and accesories for panoramic photography. I bought an adapter for my fc-e9 fisheye adapter and it is very well built and of a good quality. They will also release (if they didn't yet) a new solution for creating a spherical pano out of 3 pics taken at 120 degrees each with a DSLR rotated at 45 degrees (!).

=== AutoMate ===

[http://www.thegadgetworks.com The Gadget Works] offers AutoMate, a motorized pan-tilt head that is unique in many ways. As the lightest (2 pounds/ 1 Kg) and most compact (4" x 5.5" x 4.5" / 100mm x 145mm x 115mm) robotic pano head on the market, it is particularly well suited for taking into the wilds. AutoMate was originally designed for making gigapixel landscape panos and works quite well for that purpose. It is not well suited for making interior panos or any pano where there are objects in focus closer than about 30 meters, due to parallax issues. The AutoMate controller is a phone or PDA with Bluetooth, but unlike other Bluetooth-controlled pano heads, the controller does not need to be connected to the head more than a few seconds, eliminating the problem of dropping the connection during the taking of the pano. This is because the app running on the smartphone generates a program based on the user's input and then sends that program to the head which contains a computer that saves the program in EEPROM memory. After receiving and storing the program, the robot's program reads it back out and executes the instructions to pan, tilt, half-press and full-press the shutter (electronically through the camera's remote shutter release port). The user can save the current settings on the smartphone, giving the file a memorable name for recalling again if they want to repeat the same process. Even more conveniently, the app remembers the most recent settings and uses them as the default settings set the next time they start up the phone app. There are two apps, one for Windows Mobile phones and one for Android phones. The Android app does not yet have the panorama feature and concentrates on timelapse and HDR. The Windows Mobile app has both panorama and timelapse features. Both apps have a programmer interface that allows the user to write their custom programs. The Windows Mobile app also has a trigger sensor that can be used for capturing the elusive snow leopard in her cave (just as an example :-).

=== Benro ===

[http://english.benro.cn/gimbalhead.aspx Benro ] offer a number of gimbal heads which could function as panorama brackets. The most recent is the [http://english.benro.cn/CpListGG.aspx?ParaId=0&id=87&ProductId=971 GH3], which incorporates a rotator and a gimbal mount.

=== Bogen ===

[http://www.bogenimaging.us/Jahia/home_page Bogen imaging] is now known as (see below) [[#Manfrotto|Manfrotto Distribution]].

=== Cambo ===

Dutch manufacturer [http://www.cambo.com/ Cambo] offers a panoramic head set [http://www.cambo.com/Html/products_photo/set01/english/internet/Item21908.html CLH-500] which has an integrated leveling mechanism and what looks like [[#L-brackets.2C_rails.2C_quick_release_plates|Arca-Swiss compatible]] quick release mounts.

=== DOBAS-01 and DOBAS-02 ===

see > [[#QTVR HEADS|QTVR HEADS]]

=== Fanotec ===
Fanotec, founded by developer and inventor Nick Fan, is based in Hong Kong. Fanotec manufactures the award winning [http://www.NodalNinja.com/ Nodal Ninja] panoramic tripod heads and accessories. They use high quality lightweight aluminum alloy and state of art CNC machining processes. Nodal Ninja is the only pano head built and refined from end user feedback over several years. From universal to specific model designs there are configurations to fit almost any camera and lenses and shooting style. Design objectives for all models include quality, ease of use, portability and price with some models starting at $179. These pano heads allow the user to produce virtually any type of panorama, from single row 360 degree cylindrical panoramas to multirow 360x180 degree spherical panoramas to multi-image mosaics like the super high resolution [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gigapixel_image gigapixel images]. Added features also include rail stops to remember
positioning of camera settings [http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_pupil no parallax point] and variable click stops so you can feel the rotational increments while rotating the head. All pano heads also allow for mounting a camera in landscape mode. The heads are available with the new CNC machined advanced rotators. The changing click stops on-the-fly is as easy as changing a knob from one whole to the next. Depending on rotator model click stops are available from 180
degrees to 3.75 degree click stops - the smallest click stop of any pano head rotator on the market. Fanotec currently builds 4 basic pano head model series combined with a choice of 4 different rotators.

'''Nodal Ninja 180:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja180.html NN180] is intended to simplify panoramas by allowing “single row” shooting only. This makes it ideal for uses of large diameter circular fisheye lenses such as the Sigma 4.5mm & 8mm, Sunex 5.6mm, and Nikon FC-E8/E9, IPIX, FC-E8/E9, Raynox, Samyang etc. You can also use longer focal length lenses for single row panoramas. '''--The NN180 has been discontinued.--'''

'''Nodal Ninja 3 series:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja3.html NN3-MKII] is an award winning pano head. Lightweight, compact and strong, great for those on the go and a popular choice
for Real Estate Photographers, hobbyists, hikers and travelers. This model supports most point and shoot cameras and many smaller DSLR’s.

'''Nodal Ninja 5/5L series:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja5.html NN5/5L] is built bigger and stronger and more precise supporting up to 22 lbs (10kgs). Fits all DSLR’s, including Nikon D3X and Canon MKII with or without battery grips, and even some medium format cameras. This series is best suited for both single row and multirow panoramas using wide angle to extremely long focal lengths lenses. The casting mold reached the end of its life span. It's successor, due out by end 2010, will be modular in design and built to even greater precision standards.

'''Nodal Ninja Ultimate R1 and R10:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/ultimate.html R1 and R10] is part of the new "Ultimate" line of CNC machined components. These are ring style pano heads which uses a lens clamping system. The ring attaches to the lens collar which in turn easily attaches to the head. It's important to note this clamping system does "not" interfere with the focusing capability of the lens. The unique cantilever design of the R1 is one-of-a-kind design and allows the user to select the best tilt option for their lens. By tilting the head up slightly, depending on lens, eliminates the need to shoot the zenith (up shot) for full spherical panoramas reducing both field and post production workflows. And the small diameter base leaves the photographer with an extremely small tripod footprint. This model is best suited for those using ultra wide fisheye lenses and when shooting very quick panoramas is paramount such as in populated areas. The R10
differs from R1 in that the tilt option is built in or static. Both R1 and R10 are available without rotators making them ideal for monopods and pole photography users as well.

'''Carbon Fiber Poles Series 1'''
[http://store.nodalninja.com/categories/Pano-Poles/ Pano Poles] Fanotec poles are easy to operate and carry. They can be extended to maximum height in minutes by pushing up and locking each telescoping section. Made of carbon fiber tubes, they are light-weight, portable and are ideal for on-the-go situations and areas not accessible to vehicle mounted units. Fanotec poles are modular in design. Users can start up with a small module and gradually build up the height by stacking it to a larger module. Each module can be used independently (additional parts needed), creating an array of short poles with different stiffness for different applications, such as horizontal pole for cliff panoramas. Features and Highlights: Thick cross-layered carbon fiber tubes for maximum rigidity and durability, light weight, compact in size - fit most cars and checked luggage, Anti-rotation system maintains rigid azimuth / yaw locking /accuracy, support a large range of DSLR, s3/8" stud and 3/8" female receiver for working with other accessories. (note: include link to pole listing)

Fanotec also manufactures the lightweight [http://nodalninja.com/products/ezlevelers.html EZ-Leveler-II] with or without built in rotators. These EZ-levelers are designed to help fine tune the leveling of a pano head.

=== Hama ===

Distributor of -> [[#Panamatic|Panamatic]]

=== Jasper ===

For me, the [http://www.stereoscopy.com/jasper/panorama.html Jasper Engineering] head has been an excellent value. At about $200, it's strong enough for serious 35mm or comparable digital cameras, which can be used horizontally or (with the included adapter) vertically. [[No-parallax point]] correction is horizontal and covers a variety of focal lengths as long as (I'm guessing) 135mm or more. Like so many heads, a bubble level is included, but hard to read when the head is set up at eye level. The builder will add custom touches very reasonably, In my case I put a Wimberly/Arca quick realease plate on the base. The base is machined aluminum; they provided a peel and stick piece of rubber for the base (to keep the plate from slipping) for about ten bucks.

Pivoting parts on this unit are tightened with cap screws which have patent caps on them to give more leverage in tightening. I ended up prying these off and taking a t-handle allen wrench with me. I'm using a D-70 and a 17-35 usually; a smaller camera would be fine without that extra step.

=== Jobu Design ===
Manufacturer of two high quality panoramic tripod heads that compare very well to other heads employing the Arca Swiss clamping system. <br> The [http://www.jobu-design.com/catalog/item/2588354/8921330.htm Jobu PGH-1] and a Manfrotto quick-release compatible version [http://www.jobu-design.com/catalog/item/2588354/9002527.htm PGH-KM1]. <br> The Arca Swiss clamping system is used on almost all the high end panoramic heads as it provides significantly better clamping pressure with less force and virtually no wear on moving parts. A [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnCDwLu-f1w review]

However, the vertical arm protrudes pretty much in front of the rotation axis. For short fisheye lenses it may extend in the image.

=== Kaidan ===

[http://www.kaidan.com Kaidan] is no longer selling products and as of April 2009 filed Chapter 7 Bankruptcy. (see [[Media:KaidanBankruptcyFiling.jpg|screenshot]])

=== KingPano ===

[http://www.kingpano.com/ KingPano] is a very affordable pan/tilt head that allows for horizontal and vertical rotation around the no-parallax point i.e. for [[high resolution partial panoramas|multi row panoramas]].

===LinkDelight===

[http://www.linkdelight.com/ LinkDelight] is a vendor of photographic goods on eBay. They offer a [http://www.linkdelight.com/vmchk/Other-Tripods/Pro-360-Photography-Panoramic-Tripod-Head-Gimbal-Bracket-Kit/flypage.tpl.html Pro 360° Photography Panoramic Tripod Head & Gimbal Bracket Kit], also referred to as K7G, with a rotator with click stops at a number of different increments, set by a pin, and what appears to be the ability to make both vertical and horizontal panoramas, but it's not clear if it even works. What is clear is that the product photos show the camera mounted in a completely inappropriate position.

=== Manfrotto ===

A more expensive option is the Manfrotto 303SPH, a large, but well made head. It could double as a boat anchor! I (Rick) have the 303SPH and the Agnos mentioned below. Manfrotto has a site dedicated to their line of pano heads [http://www.manfrotto.com/303SPH/ Manfrotto 303SPH Mini-Site]. Some users complain that the head sags - I have not experienced this. This head can be used with virtually any lens / camera combination. I used to use it with the FC-E9 fisheye, but the head left too large of a footprint in the image.

Manfrotto has a service that helps to find the correct part number for [http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/spareparts/site/manfrotto/cache/offonce&t=R088Bg&e=qamwz1tcZOI spare parts] ([[Common_idiot_errors#Dropping_the_click-stop_selector_screw|...just in case you drop the click-stop selector screw]]).

Manfrotto used to be distributed by [http://www.bogenimaging.us/ Bogen Imaging] in some countries. They have now unified the name as Manfrotto Distribution.

=== memorycardsman ===

The FT-900H Precision 360 degrees Panoramic Tripod Head is marketed on eBay by vendor [http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZmemorycardsmanQQhtZ-1 memorycardsman]. It appears to offer both horizontal and vertical mounting, multi-row, and comes with a rotator with click stops every 45°. The [http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.foto-katalog.ru%2Fcomments%2F70880%2FFancier_FT_900H%2F only feedback] on this unit is in Russian (the link is translated with [http://translate.google.com/ Google translate]), and is extremely negative about the product quality.

=== MK PanoMachine / MK PanoHead ===
[http://www.marc-kairies.de/ MK Panorama Systeme], Germany, the new '''MK PanoMachine version 3.1''' is an automatic rotating VR head designed to move your camera from one shot to the next - the camera is released exactly in the right position. Version 3.1 has a new time-lapse mode as well as an integrated power management.

MK Panorama Systeme, Germany launched with the new '''MK PanoHead''' a fine mechanical precision and high-quality 360° panoramic tripod head on the world market.

Key features:

• Panoramic tripod head for the stitching of digital panoramas<br />
• Suited to create cylindrical, spherical and cubic panoramas as well as Multi-Row<br />
• 360° panoramic plate with pre adjustable scale and integrated circular bubble<br />
• Mount the MK PanoHead bracket alternatively on the Manfrotto MA 300 N or a 360° plate of your choice<br />
• Motorize the MK PanoHead bracket with the MK PanoMachine or ROUNDSHOT VR Drive (with adapter)<br />
• tilt up and down + / - 90° exactly in the no-parallax point (click-stops each 15°)<br />
• The MK PanoHead allows the use of heavy digital SLR cameras and medium format cameras<br />
• High-quality materials, fine mechanical work - Made in Germany<br />

The company also provides a rental service.

=== Nodal Ninja ===

see -> [[#Fanotec|Fanotec]] (above) Manufacturer of [http://www.nodalninja.com Nodal Ninja] Panoramic Heads and Rotators.

=== Novoflex ===
[http://www.novoflex.com/en/home/ Novoflex] is a German company with a good reputation in building high-precision photographic accessories.
The company offers now three different sets of already [http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/panorama-photography/ pre-assembled products] as well as [http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/panorama-photography/panorama-plate/ four different rotators].

All parts are built modular to be combine- and interchangeable with other parts from Novoflex. E.g. you can use a standard angle bracket or focusing rack as a part of your panohead setup. This makes it easy to create a custom panorama head that fits your specific needs. Also, it gives you the option to upgrade your setup - or easily re-order a broken part.

Works great with heavy gear.
===Owl===

The [http://www.xhia.de/owl.html Owl] panoramic head is a vertical mount head with a single horizontal rail. It does not allow moving the camera along the lens axis. Instead, it uses a second rotator to rotate the camera to position the no-parallax point above the axis of rotation of the adapter. The rail has a scale and the rotator has degree indications. The no-parallax point distance is the distance on the rail divided by the trigonometrical sine of the angle. Apparently this type of construction is meant for single-row panoramas only while providing a stable hold for heavier lens/camera combinations.

=== Panamatic ===

A more than affordable solution. Judging from information available at their [http://www.panamatic.com/ web site] this "head" is not only extremely inexpensive but also mostly useless. No way to mount a camera in a way so that the lens turns around it's NPP, and no click stops. The pan head of a standard tripod isn't worse but maybe more stable. Also marketed as [http://www.photoaxe.com/hama-panorama-kit/ Hama Panorama Kit]. Better try handheld shots...

As of October 2010, the domain panamatic.com appears to have been taken over by a domain squatter.

===Pano-MAXX===

[http://www.panorama-hardware.de/cgi-bin/framestore.cgi?action=link&sku=PM&lang=com pano-MAXX] is a low-cost German panorama head. It features multi-row vertical orientation and a rotator with click stops at 22.5°, 30° and 36° increments, more click stops selectable by changing a plate. The Pano-Maxx rail system is simple to adjust.

=== Panosaurus ===

Very affordable pan/tilt head which allows for horizontal and vertical rotation around the no-parallax point i.e. for [[high resolution partial panoramas|multi row panoramas]] are the, [http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm Panosaurus] and [http://www.kingpano.com/ KingPano].

=== Pinnacle VR ===

Priced towards the upper end of the middle ($499) is the Pinnacle VR Universal Pano Head that will work with any camera where the tripod hole is in the center of the lens axis. Using pin registration, it can accomodate cameras with or without battery grips attached and supports a wide range of lenses from fisheye to 135mm (on a full frame sensor, 80mm on an APS sized sensor). Details and sample sets of images with PTGui templates can be found at [http://www.pinnacle-vr.com/ Pinnacle VR]

=== PT4Pano ===

German manufacturer specialized on extremely lightweight and precise panorama heads with minimal footprint, optimized for single row panoramas with compact cameras. Different types of rotators and leveling plates (also combined in one product) should work with existing gear, e.g. L-brackets. They also offer a 1.2 ~ 4.1 m / 1.7 kg MonoPod with carbon tubes. [http://pt4pano.com/ PT4Pano.com]

=== QTVR HEADS ===

[http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/szynasmallwymiar.jpg DOBAS-01] and [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/cylindryczna2.jpg DOBAS-02] made by [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/indexen.htm QTVR HEADS POLAND] is high quality, reliable and easy in use panorama head in excellent . It is made of anodized aluminium and stainless steel - the highest quality materials with LIFETIME WARRANTY !!

With [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/indexen.htm DOBAS-01] panorama head you will be able to do single row 360 degree cylindrical panoramas as well as multirow 360x180 degree spherical panoramas, or mosaics. DOBAS-01 is "universal" fitting most point and shoot cameras, SLR's and DSLR's. It fits many medium to large format camera like BRONICA ETRSi. I used that pano head with heavy cameras like OLYMPUS E-1 + ZUIKO DIGITAL 8 or OLYMPUS E-3 + ZD8
Bubble level helps to keep whole system horizontally. Camera is mounted to the panorama head with standard 1/4'' screw. Wieght less 400 grams. Price (about 100$ or 80 EUR)

[http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/cylindryczna2.jpg DOBAS-02] panorama head is ultralight pano head for cylindrical panoramas. Wieght less 200 grams. Price (about 55$ or 45 EUR)

=== Really Right Stuff ===
[http://reallyrightstuff.com/pano/04.html RRS] panorama equipment is nicely machined, modular gear.

=== Rodeon VR ===
The [http://www.dr-clauss.de/RODEONVRHead_e.htm Rodeon VR Head] is a programmable pano head. Tilt and Rotation are motorised, all steps can be controlled using a Bluetooth device (Notebook or PDA).

=== Reviews ===
Various unbiased reviews are floating about on many of these panorama tripod heads:

'''360Precision''':
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=2 360 Rage] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/tipsntricks/2179 PanoGuide Forum] |
[http://www.chem.ox.ac.uk/oxfordtour/tutorial/index.asp?ID=40&pagename=360precision%20Adjuste Dr. Karl Harrison] |
[http://www.fromparis.com/html/technical_us_quicktime_vr_360precision_adjuste_head_part1.php Eric Rougier] |

'''Kaidan''':
[http://www.precomania.com/rating_getprodrev.php/product_id=9277958/id_type=M Precomania] |
[http://www.vrphotography.com/data/pages/casestudies/vrheadreview1103.html VRPhotography] Note: This is an older review |
[http://rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/quickpanpro/quickpanpro_review.html Rosauro Ona] |

'''KingPano''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/kingpano_review.htm Max Lyons / Tawbaware] |

'''Manfrotto 303SPH''':
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/303sph/303sph_review.html Rosauro Ona] |
[http://www.precomania.com/publicprofile.php/productreviews/userid=624974 Precomania] |
[http://www.vrphotography.com/data/pages/casestudies/vrheadreview1103.html VRPhotography] |

'''MK PanoMachine / MK PanoHead''':
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/mkpanohead/mkpanohead_review.html l Rosauro Ona] |

'''Nodal Ninja''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nodalninja_review.htm Max Lyons - NN1] |
[http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=93015 Canon Digital Photography - NN1] |
[http://www.pic.templetons.com/brad/pano/panorama-head.html Brad Templeton - NN2] |
[http://www.applelinks.com/index.php/more/nodal_ninja_3_review_of_camera_supporter_for_panomarama_photos/ Applelinks - NN3] |
[http://www.geek.com/fanotec-nodal-ninja-3-spherical-tripod-head/?welcome=true Josh Korwin - NN3] |
[http://www.fromparis.com/html/technical_us_quicktime_vr_small_nadir_hole.php Eric Rougier - NN3] |
[http://www.pixelmania.nl/artikel.aspx?rubriekid=2&artikelid=301 Pixelmania (dutch) - NN3] |
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=9 360 Rage - NN3] |
[http://www.galerie-photo.com/panoramique-nodal-ninja.html Thierry Rebours (french)- NN3] |
[http://www.camera2go.nl/digitale-camera/Dankzij-de-Nodal-Ninja-3-gemakkelijk-panorama-s-maken.html Cameraportal (dutch) - NN3] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/tipsntricks/1984/ John Houghton - NN3] |
[http://www.nodalninja.com/DPhotoUK_05_07_1024.jpg Digital Photography Magazine (May 07) - NN3] |
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/nn3/nn3_review.html Rosauro Ona - NN3 MKII] |
[http://www.photoproductsreviewed.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=7:tripods&id=106:nodal-ninja-3-mkii-full-spherical-multirow-panoramic-tripod-head Photo Products Reviewed - NN3 MKII] |
[http://www.vrmag.org/vartist/VR_industry/REVIEW_OF_NODAL_NINJA_NN3_AND_PREVIEW_OF_THE_NEW_NN5.html VRMag - NN3, NN5] |
[http://www.dslrusers.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34293 DSLR Users - NN5L] |
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nn5_review.html Max Lyons - NN5] |
[http://www.digitalmagasinet.dk/show.asp?ID=1571 Digital Magasinet (Dannish) - NN5] |
[http://www.amazon.com/Nodal-Spherical-Multirow-Panoramic-Tripod/dp/B001K38Y5O Amazon.com - NN5] |
[http://www.photo.it-enquirer.com/2008/09/11/nodal-ninja-nn5 IT Enquirer NN5] |
[http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/gadgets/246292/nodal-ninja-5-with-rotator-12 Expert Reviews - NN5 w/RD12] |
[http://www.newyorkpanorama.com/2010/09/16/nodal-ninja-review/ Joergen Geerds - NN5 w/RD16, EZ-Leveler-II] |
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nn5_review2.html/ Max Lyons - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.jorgphoto.com/2010/10/04/nodal-ninja-good-as-gold/ Andrew Jorgensen - R1 EZ-Leveler-II] |
[http://www.dentonimages.com/page.php?id=Fanotec_Nodal_Ninja_5_with_RD16_Rotator_Review Denton Images - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.opyd.net/brianopyd/index.php/articles/equipment/22-nn5rd16panoheadreview Brian Opyd - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.nodalninja.com/testimonials.html Customer Testimonials] |

'''Novoflex''':
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=12 360 Rage] |

'''Panosaurus''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/panosaurus_review.htm Tabaware] |
[http://panoramicearth.blogspot.com/2006/06/part-2-panorsaurus-head-review.html Peter Watts] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/qna/2467 Panoguide forum] |

'''Pinnacle VR''':
[http://www.seeit360.net/index.php?page=pvr Sacha Griffin] |

== Lens brackets ==
Another way to keep the lens/camera fixed to the [[no-parallax point]] are lens brackets that directly mounted onto the lens itself. The advantages are less vibrations but the drawback is that you need one bracket for each lens. They are a special type of a [[NPP adapters|no-parallax adapter]].

Some examples:

* Agnos [http://www.agnos.com/catalogo.htm?v_categ_lista=PR001-RINGT Lens ring]
* ''Atome'' series by [http://www.360precision.com/ 360Precision]
* Laser cut wooden brackets from [http://www.bophoto.com/bracket/ Pano Bracket from bophoto]
* Self made bracket from [http://homepage.mac.com/wkaemena/Nikon8Head.jpg Willy Kaemena]

== L-brackets, rails, quick release plates ==
A [http://www.afximages.com/stuff/arca-plates-xref.html compatibility table] lists different brands of '''Arca Swiss style''' plates (and their counterparts). This could help to combine already bought equipment with parts of a different manufacturer, e.g. an old Manfrotto rotator with an additional quick release plate could be connected with a Novoflex L-bracket...

== Self made ==

If you want to build our own pan/tilt head you might get some ideas from those shown below.

Multirow
* [http://www.panotools.org/dersch/heliarVR/heliarVR0.html Helmut Dersch]
* [http://www.erik-krause.de/panohead Erik Krause]
* [http://www.trozzreaxxion.net/misc/panorama/panorama.html Mike Runge (German)]
* [http://blog.robertbreuer.com/?p=16 Robert Breuer (German)]
* [http://www.dffe.at/panohead/ Bernhard Vogl]
* [http://www.nyfeler-mueller.ch/MonoPodHead/QTVR/MonopodHeadQTVR.html Peter Nyfeler/Monopod]
* [http://www.nyfeler-mueller.ch/PanoHeadMulti/PanoHeadMulti.html Peter Nyfeler/Tripod]
* [http://www.chem.uky.edu/xray/people/Parkin/panohead/panohead.html Sean Parkin (English)]
* [http://www.nodalsamurai.co.uk/nodalsamurai.html Pete Loud's Nodal Samurai]
* [http://www.scotthendershot.com/Panohead/UniversalPanoHead.htm Scott Hendershot]
* [http://www.pbase.com/atucker/image/40469012 Tom Sherry]
* [http://photocreations.ca/equipment/index.html Jim Watters]
* [http://www.360bilder.de/eng/nodalpoint.html Bernd Dohrmann]
* [http://www.worth1000.com/tutorial.asp?sid=161123&page=1 low cost wooden head by arodrix]
* [http://www.w3a2z.net/PHead/ John McAllister]
* [http://einem.net/tech/voigtlaender/ Carl von Einem]
* [http://www.milan-knizek.net/cms/panoramaticka-hlava-levne-reseni/ Milan Knížek (Czech)]
* [http://cartola.org/fotos/index-201010.php?dir=Diversas/Engenhocas/Cabeca_Tripe_Panoramica Carlos Eduardo Carvalho (Brazil)]
* [http://cartola.org/fotos/index-201010.php?dir=Diversas/Engenhocas/Cabeca_Tripe_Panoramica-v02 Carlos Eduardo Carvalho model #2 (Brazil)]
* [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2011/09/hinter-den-kulissen-der-panoramafotografie-teil-i-die-ausrustung-fur-die-panoramafotografie-im-selbstbau/ Tilman Bremer (German)]
* [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2011/09/panoramic-photography-revealed-part-i-hardware-for-panoramic-photography-diy/ Tilman Bremer (English)]
* [http://blog.pryds.eu/2012/07/build-your-own-panoramic-head-novice.html Thomas Pryds]
* [http://rasterweb.net/raster/projects/panohead/ Pete Prodoehl]

Single row
* [http://www.heiliger-net.de/panphoto/n_hardware.htm Panphoto.de (German)]
* [http://panorama.dyndns.org/panohead/simplest_panohead_ever.html Harry van der Wolf]
* [http://anthonygoh.webs.com/large-pano-head Anthony Goh (Singapore) ]
* [http://anthonygoh.webs.com/pano-head-for-micro-4-3 Anthony Goh compact version (Singapore)]

=== Material supply ===
Since you often can't get the popular aluminium profiles in your local do-it-yourself store here some possible suppliers:
* Item International http://www.item-international.com - Internationally active
* CAP http://www.aluprofil.com - situated in Austria
* MayTec http://www.maytec.org - situated in Germany
* KJN Aluminium Profile http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ - situated in UK
* TSlots Aluminium Profiles (metric and fraction) http://www.tslots.com/ - North America

A web search for "aluprofil" or "aluminium profile" might reveal other suppliers.

[[Category:Hardware]]

DSLR spherical resolution

2012-12-27T21:24:51Z

Erik Krause: /* Pano sizes */ used 36 instead of 35 MP

{{Glossary|What [[spherical]] panorama resolution can I obtain from a certain [[fisheyes|fisheye]]/camera combination.}}
==Intro==
In general photography megapixels are more or less synonymous to resulting image resolution. Panorama photography is a bit different, especially spherical panoramas. Here the sensor pixel density is more important than the sensor pixel count.

==The Problem==
Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) cameras exist in four major groups:
* With [[#FourThirds|FourThirds]] sensor (crop factor 2.0)
* With an [[#APS-C|APS-C]] type sensor (crop factor 1.5 or 1.6)
* With [[#APS-H|APS-H]] type sensor (crop factor 1.3)
* With a sensor of the [[#Full size|full 35mm film size]] (crop factor 1.0)

In each size category there are several cameras with different sensor resolutions. And there are several lenses that can be attached to cameras with different sensor sizes. To have the effects of different lenses comparable the concept of a 35mm equivalent focal length has been established - the real focal length multiplied with the crop factor gives the same [[Field of View]] like for a 35mm film camera.

However, this is not possible for [[fisheyes|fisheye]] lenses, since the [[Focal Length]] does not correspond linearly to the [[Field of View]]. One has to look at the degree/mm ratio and absolute pixel density instead.

==Degree/mm==
In the [[Fisheye Projection]] an angular distance from the optical axis maps to a linear distance on the sensor. The mapping is determined by the focal length (the following numbers are approximations, since real fisheyes almost never resemble the ideal fisheye mapping):

* 5.6mm focal length 11.4°/mm
* 8mm focal length 8°/mm
* 10.5mm focal length 6°/mm
* 16mm focal length 4°/mm

== Pixel density ==
To deduce the pixel resolution obtainable by a certain sensor/lens combination we should know the density in pixels/mm of the respective sensor. The pixel density can be calculated roughly from the Megapixels (better would be actual pixel size) and the sensor size. For the three major groups and some typical Megapixel sizes:

=== FourThirds ===
with 13.5mm short side
Megapixel 6 8 10 12
Short side px 2121 2450 2739 3024
px/mm 157 181 203 232

=== APS-C ===
with 16mm short side
Megapixel 6 8 10 12
Short side px 2000 2309 2582 2828
px/mm 125 144 161 177

=== APS-H ===
with 19mm short side
Megapixel 8 10 16
Short side px 2336 2592 3264
px/mm 123 137 172

=== Full size ===
with 24mm short side
Megapixel 6 8 10 12 16 21 24 28 36
Short side px 2000 2309 2582 2828 3266 3742 4032 4320 4900
px/mm 83 96 108 118 136 156 168 180 204

== Pano sizes ==
From the above values we can easily calculate some sample panorama resolutions. The table gives some rounded values for the maximum pixel size of an equirectangular:

FourThirds MP - - - - 6 7 8 10 12
APS-C MP - - 6 8 10 11 12 15 20
APS-H MP - - 8 10 - 16 - - -
Full size MP 6 8 12 16 21 24 28 36 46<b>
pixel/mm 80 100 120 140 160 170 180 204 230</b>
f=5.6mm size 2520 3150 3780 4420 5050 5360 5680 6440 7260
f=8mm size 3600 4500 5400 6300 7200 7600 8100 9180 10350
f=10.5mm size 4800 6000 7200 8400 9600 10200 10800 12240 13800
f=16mm size 7200 9000 10800 12600 14400 15300 16200 18360 20700

The formula for an exact calculation is <math> \textstyle \frac {\text{pixel}/\text{mm}} {\text{degree}/\text{mm}}\cdot360</math>

<small>
--[[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 22:11, 21 August 2007 (CEST)
</small>
[[Category:Tutorial:Nice to know]]
[[Category:Glossary]]

DSLR spherical resolution

2012-12-27T21:21:12Z

Erik Krause: /* Full size */ added new sensor sizes

{{Glossary|What [[spherical]] panorama resolution can I obtain from a certain [[fisheyes|fisheye]]/camera combination.}}
==Intro==
In general photography megapixels are more or less synonymous to resulting image resolution. Panorama photography is a bit different, especially spherical panoramas. Here the sensor pixel density is more important than the sensor pixel count.

==The Problem==
Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) cameras exist in four major groups:
* With [[#FourThirds|FourThirds]] sensor (crop factor 2.0)
* With an [[#APS-C|APS-C]] type sensor (crop factor 1.5 or 1.6)
* With [[#APS-H|APS-H]] type sensor (crop factor 1.3)
* With a sensor of the [[#Full size|full 35mm film size]] (crop factor 1.0)

In each size category there are several cameras with different sensor resolutions. And there are several lenses that can be attached to cameras with different sensor sizes. To have the effects of different lenses comparable the concept of a 35mm equivalent focal length has been established - the real focal length multiplied with the crop factor gives the same [[Field of View]] like for a 35mm film camera.

However, this is not possible for [[fisheyes|fisheye]] lenses, since the [[Focal Length]] does not correspond linearly to the [[Field of View]]. One has to look at the degree/mm ratio and absolute pixel density instead.

==Degree/mm==
In the [[Fisheye Projection]] an angular distance from the optical axis maps to a linear distance on the sensor. The mapping is determined by the focal length (the following numbers are approximations, since real fisheyes almost never resemble the ideal fisheye mapping):

* 5.6mm focal length 11.4°/mm
* 8mm focal length 8°/mm
* 10.5mm focal length 6°/mm
* 16mm focal length 4°/mm

== Pixel density ==
To deduce the pixel resolution obtainable by a certain sensor/lens combination we should know the density in pixels/mm of the respective sensor. The pixel density can be calculated roughly from the Megapixels (better would be actual pixel size) and the sensor size. For the three major groups and some typical Megapixel sizes:

=== FourThirds ===
with 13.5mm short side
Megapixel 6 8 10 12
Short side px 2121 2450 2739 3024
px/mm 157 181 203 232

=== APS-C ===
with 16mm short side
Megapixel 6 8 10 12
Short side px 2000 2309 2582 2828
px/mm 125 144 161 177

=== APS-H ===
with 19mm short side
Megapixel 8 10 16
Short side px 2336 2592 3264
px/mm 123 137 172

=== Full size ===
with 24mm short side
Megapixel 6 8 10 12 16 21 24 28 36
Short side px 2000 2309 2582 2828 3266 3742 4032 4320 4900
px/mm 83 96 108 118 136 156 168 180 204

== Pano sizes ==
From the above values we can easily calculate some sample panorama resolutions. The table gives some rounded values for the maximum pixel size of an equirectangular:

FourThirds MP - - - - 6 7 8 10 12
APS-C MP - - 6 8 10 11 12 15 20
APS-H MP - - 8 10 - 16 - - -
Full size MP 6 8 12 16 21 24 28 35 46<b>
pixel/mm 80 100 120 140 160 170 180 200 230</b>
f=5.6mm size 2520 3150 3780 4420 5050 5360 5680 6300 7260
f=8mm size 3600 4500 5400 6300 7200 7600 8100 9000 10350
f=10.5mm size 4800 6000 7200 8400 9600 10200 10800 12000 13800
f=16mm size 7200 9000 10800 12600 14400 15300 16200 18000 20700

The formula for an exact calculation is <math> \textstyle \frac {\text{pixel}/\text{mm}} {\text{degree}/\text{mm}}\cdot360</math>

<small>
--[[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 22:11, 21 August 2007 (CEST)
</small>
[[Category:Tutorial:Nice to know]]
[[Category:Glossary]]

Extended bracketing control

2012-12-04T16:36:22Z

Erik Krause: /* Chained apps */ typo

Shooting exposure bracketed gets more and more important for panorama creation, but most cameras still only support three brackets at 2EV steps maximum. But there are possibilities to work around this limitation. Many solutions support not only bracketing control but eventually many other features (timelaps, sound or light trigger etc). However, exposure bracketing is the main interest here.

This page is about how to extend the camera capabilities. If you look for general HDR information start at the [[HDR]] page.

= PTP bracketing =
[[w:Picture Transfer Protocol|Picture Transfer Protocol]] (PTP) is built into many cameras and should provide a means of not only transferring pictures over USB but also controlling the camera remotely. PTP is part of the [[w:Windows Image Acquisition|WIA]] architecture on Windows, hence it is fairly easy to build a camera control software using f.e. Visual Basic. For other OS's the [http://gphoto.org/ gphoto] project should provide access to such cameras. The gphoto project also collects informations what cameras can be remotely controlled and in what ways: http://gphoto.org/doc/remote/

Hence there are many programs to control your camera from a computer but only few that do the same from a portable device. However, availability of cheap USB host circuitry has triggered some do-it-yourself projects and apparently even some smartphones can use USB hosts nowadays.

== Supported cameras ==
Not all PTP enabled cameras implement all features. Hence it's impossible to tell which cameras can be used for PTP bracketing. The most complete list of cameras supporting PTP or other means of direct control is found in the [http://gphoto.org/proj/libgphoto2/support.php gphoto project]. If your camera is listed, there is a chance that one or the other software will support it. But it is still better to look on the vendor or developer page.

== Programs ==

=== Windows ===
* [http://www.breezesys.com/DSLRRemotePro/ DSLR remote pro] (commercial)
* [http://www.photoremote.de/en PhotoRemote] (free for non commercial use)
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://www.controlmynikon.com/ ControlMyNikon] works ith Nikon DSLRs only. (Commercial)
* [http://hartcw.com/ Smart Shooter] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras and is scriptable (Commercial)

=== Linux ===
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control

=== Mac OSX ===
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control
* [http://www.breezesys.com/DSLRRemotePro4Mac/ DSLR remote pro for Mac] (commercial)
* [http://www.sofortbildapp.com/ Sofortbild] Mac Tethered shooting (Freeware)
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://hartcw.com/ Smart Shooter] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras and is scriptable (Commercial)

== Devices ==
=== Commercial ===
* [http://www.promotesystems.com/ Promote control]
* [http://www.roundshot.ch/xml_1/internet/de/application/d438/d927/f1033.cfm Seitz Roundshot VR Drive 2 with HDR option]
* [http://www.okii.net/default.asp OKII USA] They sell 2USB controls, battery powered, they allow camera control and also very fine follow focusing control. Canon only.
* [http://www.pchood.com/3D%20USB%20Contoller Cinematics]They sell 2USB controls, battery powered, they allow camera control and also very fine follow focusing control, one of them is the unique one that controls 2 cameras for stereo3D photography or video making. Canon only.
* [http://opteka.com/ff1x.aspx Opteka FF1x] it is a simple, battery operated followfocus. No hdr functions or camera controls
* [http://www.camranger.com/ Camranger] is a small device plugging in the USB connector of several Nikon and Canon DSLRs allowing to control them wireless from an Ipad or Iphone.

=== Do-it-yourself ===
While the commercial devices above should be save (or at least offer some liability) there is a chance the DIY projects might hurt your camera. See [http://vimeo.com/groups/magiclantern/forum/topic:255083 this post] on the vimeo forum.
* [http://dslrsystems.com/ dslrsystems]is an arduino Bluetooth reciever with USB conection to Canon camera, chained with an Android smartphone app
* [http://www.circuitsathome.com/camera-control/digital-camera-control-using-arduino-usb-host-shield-part-1-basics Digital camera control using Arduino USB Host Shield] (DIY / open source)
* [http://xeqo.de/camcap-dslr-controller/ CamCap – DSLR Controller] Android tablet 3.1 app with live view that uses USB host mode
* [http://webuser.fh-furtwangen.de/~dersch/gphoto/remote.html project to control a camera using a network storage unit] running embedded linux by [[Helmut Dersch]]

===Raspberry Pi===
The [[w:Raspberry Pi]] is a very cheap yet complete ARM based single board computer the size of a credit card running Linux. This offers new and exciting possibilities. Some projects:
* [http://islandinthenet.com/2012/08/23/hdr-photography-with-raspberry-pi-and-gphoto2/ HDR photography with Raspberry Pi and gPhoto2] by Khürt Williams
* [http://davidhunt.ie/?p=2641 Camera Pi – DSLR Camera with Embedded Computer] by David Hunt (Timelaps and remote shooting but no HDR yet).

== Chained apps ==
Unfortunately very few smart devices have an USB host to control external readers, iOS would need a special circuitry attatched to their propretary port. Hence proliferation of tools claimed to coontrol the camera from a smartphone, that are more conveniently using a real computer as bridge.
The convenience is that the smart device controlling the camera operations is wirelessy connected to the bridge computer and can be a very valuable companion in studio work. Drawback is it comes more heavy on the field.

=== iOS + OSX ===
* [http://www.ononesoftware.com/products/dslr-camera-remote/ DSLR camera remote] A smartphone app and a program running on a PC connected to the camera.

=== Android + other ===
* [http://www.remoteyourcam.com/ remoteyourcam wifi] is compatible with Canon cameras, Nikon compatibility is still not provided. The server application is available for Mac OS X 10.5+ and Windows.
* [http://www.busywww.com/ cameraremote] Documentation is scarce, seems to act through bluetooth. Someone will have to test it.

== Android apps direct USB control ==
Few android apps are avaliable, chaining the full camera control with PTP protocol. Unfortunately only few smart devices are equipped with an USB host, and generally Android 3.1 is required. Till now only few Android can control the cameras directly. The solution is smart and lightweight, requires an USB cable linking your device with the camera, somehow limiting the action range.
* [http://dslrcontroller.com/ DSLcontroller] Android app to control Canon cameras
* [http://dslrsystems.com/ dslrsystems] is an Android smartphone app chained with an arduino Bluetooth reciever with USB conection to Canon camera
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://xeqo.de/camcap-dslr-controller/ CamCap] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://www.remoteyourcam.com/ remoteyourcam usb] is compatible with Canon and Nikon cameras,and remotes them via USB host.

= Bulb mode bracketing =
A much cheaper way to control a camera shutter is using bulb mode and opening and closing the shutter directly by cable or infrared. Unfortunately no short exposure times are possible since for fast times the second shutter curtain starts to close already while the first one is still not fully open. Hence bulb mode bracketing is limited to times slower than 1/120s to 1/4s depending on the camera, with fastest possible times getting unreliable. Great for night time HDR but nothing for daylight use where fast speeds are needed. There are lot's of DIY projects and many smartphone apps in this category.

== Supported cameras ==
Any camera that has a cable or infrared release and that supports bulb mode should work.

== Commercial ==
* [http://www.pclix.com/support/pclix-xt-support The PClix intervalometer] has the feature of a programmable shutter push length (to 99/100th sec) and programmable bulb length which can be combined with interval timing -- which makes it useful for continuous sequences of autobracketed bursts.

== Do-it-yourself ==
DIY bulb mode bracketing should be safe if you don't apply power to the connector.
* [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/hdr-jack/ HDR Jack] probably the smallest bracketing controller ever.
* [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/hdr-jack2/ HDR jack 2] improve version build into a standard cable release. There are other solutions with even more features on that page, too.
* [http://www.hdrlabs.com/occ/index.html Open Camera Controller] controlled by a Nintendo DS and build into a game cartridge, many features.
* [http://www.wegroo.com/photoirmote/ PhotoIRemote] controlled by smartphone using audio out using either a self modified cable or a self mad IR transmitter
* [http://newyorkpanorama.com/2009/01/21/long-exposure-night-hdr-photography-with-arduino/ Bracketmeister] Arduino project by Joergen Geerds

== Smartphone apps ==
* [https://triggertrap.com/ TriggerTrap] i-devices app with bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.dslrbot.com/ DSLR.bot] i-devices app with infrared bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.triggerhappyremote.com/ Trigger Happy] I-devices and android app plus cable bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.thegadgetworks.com/TL-Plus.html TL-Plus] Androide app that programs the [[Heads#AutoMate|AutoMate robotic panorama head]] which then does not only bulb mode bracketing or timelaps but also gigapixel shooting on it's own.

= Camera software hacks =
In-camera bracketing limits are mostly artificial. Where the camera software can be extended or replaced better functionality can be retrofitted. However, there is a small risk of malfunction or even permanent damage to your camera.

* [http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK CHDK] The Canon Hack Development Kit extends the firmware of Canon powershot cameras by many useful features among which is extended exposure bracketing. Also read the FAQ [http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/FAQ#Q._Can_CHDK_damage_your_camera.C2.A0.3F Can CHDK damage your camera?]
* [http://www.magiclantern.fm/ MagicLantern] A firmware hack for some Canon DSLRs providing not only bracketing but mainly extended video functionality. Also read the FAQ [http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/faq#is_it_safe "Is it safe?"]

= Other possibilities =
* Another idea of doc-diy is to [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/battery_grip/ butcher a battery grip] and emulate the dial wheel by a micro controller. This way exposure could be controlled simply and directly.

[[Category:Hardware]][[Category:Software:Survey]]

Extended bracketing control

2012-12-04T16:34:42Z

Erik Krause: /* Commercial */ typo

Shooting exposure bracketed gets more and more important for panorama creation, but most cameras still only support three brackets at 2EV steps maximum. But there are possibilities to work around this limitation. Many solutions support not only bracketing control but eventually many other features (timelaps, sound or light trigger etc). However, exposure bracketing is the main interest here.

This page is about how to extend the camera capabilities. If you look for general HDR information start at the [[HDR]] page.

= PTP bracketing =
[[w:Picture Transfer Protocol|Picture Transfer Protocol]] (PTP) is built into many cameras and should provide a means of not only transferring pictures over USB but also controlling the camera remotely. PTP is part of the [[w:Windows Image Acquisition|WIA]] architecture on Windows, hence it is fairly easy to build a camera control software using f.e. Visual Basic. For other OS's the [http://gphoto.org/ gphoto] project should provide access to such cameras. The gphoto project also collects informations what cameras can be remotely controlled and in what ways: http://gphoto.org/doc/remote/

Hence there are many programs to control your camera from a computer but only few that do the same from a portable device. However, availability of cheap USB host circuitry has triggered some do-it-yourself projects and apparently even some smartphones can use USB hosts nowadays.

== Supported cameras ==
Not all PTP enabled cameras implement all features. Hence it's impossible to tell which cameras can be used for PTP bracketing. The most complete list of cameras supporting PTP or other means of direct control is found in the [http://gphoto.org/proj/libgphoto2/support.php gphoto project]. If your camera is listed, there is a chance that one or the other software will support it. But it is still better to look on the vendor or developer page.

== Programs ==

=== Windows ===
* [http://www.breezesys.com/DSLRRemotePro/ DSLR remote pro] (commercial)
* [http://www.photoremote.de/en PhotoRemote] (free for non commercial use)
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://www.controlmynikon.com/ ControlMyNikon] works ith Nikon DSLRs only. (Commercial)
* [http://hartcw.com/ Smart Shooter] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras and is scriptable (Commercial)

=== Linux ===
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control

=== Mac OSX ===
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control
* [http://www.breezesys.com/DSLRRemotePro4Mac/ DSLR remote pro for Mac] (commercial)
* [http://www.sofortbildapp.com/ Sofortbild] Mac Tethered shooting (Freeware)
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://hartcw.com/ Smart Shooter] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras and is scriptable (Commercial)

== Devices ==
=== Commercial ===
* [http://www.promotesystems.com/ Promote control]
* [http://www.roundshot.ch/xml_1/internet/de/application/d438/d927/f1033.cfm Seitz Roundshot VR Drive 2 with HDR option]
* [http://www.okii.net/default.asp OKII USA] They sell 2USB controls, battery powered, they allow camera control and also very fine follow focusing control. Canon only.
* [http://www.pchood.com/3D%20USB%20Contoller Cinematics]They sell 2USB controls, battery powered, they allow camera control and also very fine follow focusing control, one of them is the unique one that controls 2 cameras for stereo3D photography or video making. Canon only.
* [http://opteka.com/ff1x.aspx Opteka FF1x] it is a simple, battery operated followfocus. No hdr functions or camera controls
* [http://www.camranger.com/ Camranger] is a small device plugging in the USB connector of several Nikon and Canon DSLRs allowing to control them wireless from an Ipad or Iphone.

=== Do-it-yourself ===
While the commercial devices above should be save (or at least offer some liability) there is a chance the DIY projects might hurt your camera. See [http://vimeo.com/groups/magiclantern/forum/topic:255083 this post] on the vimeo forum.
* [http://dslrsystems.com/ dslrsystems]is an arduino Bluetooth reciever with USB conection to Canon camera, chained with an Android smartphone app
* [http://www.circuitsathome.com/camera-control/digital-camera-control-using-arduino-usb-host-shield-part-1-basics Digital camera control using Arduino USB Host Shield] (DIY / open source)
* [http://xeqo.de/camcap-dslr-controller/ CamCap – DSLR Controller] Android tablet 3.1 app with live view that uses USB host mode
* [http://webuser.fh-furtwangen.de/~dersch/gphoto/remote.html project to control a camera using a network storage unit] running embedded linux by [[Helmut Dersch]]

===Raspberry Pi===
The [[w:Raspberry Pi]] is a very cheap yet complete ARM based single board computer the size of a credit card running Linux. This offers new and exciting possibilities. Some projects:
* [http://islandinthenet.com/2012/08/23/hdr-photography-with-raspberry-pi-and-gphoto2/ HDR photography with Raspberry Pi and gPhoto2] by Khürt Williams
* [http://davidhunt.ie/?p=2641 Camera Pi – DSLR Camera with Embedded Computer] by David Hunt (Timelaps and remote shooting but no HDR yet).

== Chained apps ==
Unfortunately very few smart devices have an USB host to control external readers, iOS would need a special circuitry attatched to their propretary port. Hence proliferation of tools claimed to coontrol the camera from a smartphone, that are more conveniently using a real computer as bridge.
The convenience is that the smart device controlling the camera operations is wirelessy connected to the bridge computer and can be a very valuable companion in studio work. Drawback is it comes more heavy on the field, and can

=== iOS + OSX ===
* [http://www.ononesoftware.com/products/dslr-camera-remote/ DSLR camera remote] A smartphone app and a program running on a PC connected to the camera.

=== Android + other ===
* [http://www.remoteyourcam.com/ remoteyourcam wifi] is compatible with Canon cameras, Nikon compatibility is still not provided. The server application is available for Mac OS X 10.5+ and Windows.
* [http://www.busywww.com/ cameraremote] Documentation is scarce, seems to act through bluetooth. Someone will have to test it.

== Android apps direct USB control ==
Few android apps are avaliable, chaining the full camera control with PTP protocol. Unfortunately only few smart devices are equipped with an USB host, and generally Android 3.1 is required. Till now only few Android can control the cameras directly. The solution is smart and lightweight, requires an USB cable linking your device with the camera, somehow limiting the action range.
* [http://dslrcontroller.com/ DSLcontroller] Android app to control Canon cameras
* [http://dslrsystems.com/ dslrsystems] is an Android smartphone app chained with an arduino Bluetooth reciever with USB conection to Canon camera
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://xeqo.de/camcap-dslr-controller/ CamCap] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://www.remoteyourcam.com/ remoteyourcam usb] is compatible with Canon and Nikon cameras,and remotes them via USB host.

= Bulb mode bracketing =
A much cheaper way to control a camera shutter is using bulb mode and opening and closing the shutter directly by cable or infrared. Unfortunately no short exposure times are possible since for fast times the second shutter curtain starts to close already while the first one is still not fully open. Hence bulb mode bracketing is limited to times slower than 1/120s to 1/4s depending on the camera, with fastest possible times getting unreliable. Great for night time HDR but nothing for daylight use where fast speeds are needed. There are lot's of DIY projects and many smartphone apps in this category.

== Supported cameras ==
Any camera that has a cable or infrared release and that supports bulb mode should work.

== Commercial ==
* [http://www.pclix.com/support/pclix-xt-support The PClix intervalometer] has the feature of a programmable shutter push length (to 99/100th sec) and programmable bulb length which can be combined with interval timing -- which makes it useful for continuous sequences of autobracketed bursts.

== Do-it-yourself ==
DIY bulb mode bracketing should be safe if you don't apply power to the connector.
* [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/hdr-jack/ HDR Jack] probably the smallest bracketing controller ever.
* [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/hdr-jack2/ HDR jack 2] improve version build into a standard cable release. There are other solutions with even more features on that page, too.
* [http://www.hdrlabs.com/occ/index.html Open Camera Controller] controlled by a Nintendo DS and build into a game cartridge, many features.
* [http://www.wegroo.com/photoirmote/ PhotoIRemote] controlled by smartphone using audio out using either a self modified cable or a self mad IR transmitter
* [http://newyorkpanorama.com/2009/01/21/long-exposure-night-hdr-photography-with-arduino/ Bracketmeister] Arduino project by Joergen Geerds

== Smartphone apps ==
* [https://triggertrap.com/ TriggerTrap] i-devices app with bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.dslrbot.com/ DSLR.bot] i-devices app with infrared bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.triggerhappyremote.com/ Trigger Happy] I-devices and android app plus cable bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.thegadgetworks.com/TL-Plus.html TL-Plus] Androide app that programs the [[Heads#AutoMate|AutoMate robotic panorama head]] which then does not only bulb mode bracketing or timelaps but also gigapixel shooting on it's own.

= Camera software hacks =
In-camera bracketing limits are mostly artificial. Where the camera software can be extended or replaced better functionality can be retrofitted. However, there is a small risk of malfunction or even permanent damage to your camera.

* [http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK CHDK] The Canon Hack Development Kit extends the firmware of Canon powershot cameras by many useful features among which is extended exposure bracketing. Also read the FAQ [http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/FAQ#Q._Can_CHDK_damage_your_camera.C2.A0.3F Can CHDK damage your camera?]
* [http://www.magiclantern.fm/ MagicLantern] A firmware hack for some Canon DSLRs providing not only bracketing but mainly extended video functionality. Also read the FAQ [http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/faq#is_it_safe "Is it safe?"]

= Other possibilities =
* Another idea of doc-diy is to [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/battery_grip/ butcher a battery grip] and emulate the dial wheel by a micro controller. This way exposure could be controlled simply and directly.

[[Category:Hardware]][[Category:Software:Survey]]

Tutorials

2012-12-01T13:26:38Z

Erik Krause: /* Zenith and Nadir retouching */ linked new tutorial, changed title

{{RatingStarSystem}}
There is also a list of all [[tutorials by rating]]
== General ==
* [[The why and how of panoramas]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[How stitching works]] {{RateStar|1}}

== Photography ==
* [[Photography Guidelines]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[DSLR spherical resolution]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEgLgReARxs Video tutorial on finding no-parallax point] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm Finding the No-Parallax Point] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Sigma 8mm Fisheye Canon 350D MrotatorCP]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Special issues with fisheye lenses]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[ChristmasBallPanoTutor| Making a spherical panorama by photographing a christmas ball]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Philopod pitch variation]] technique for shooting handheld {{RateStar|3}}
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouOEM4cKKGc Video tutorial on three panorama shooting techniques] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2009/12/24/nodal-ninja-calibration-tutorial/ Calibrating a panoramic head] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/02/29/parallax/ Understanding Parallax] {{RateStar|2}}

== Preparation ==
* [[A simple approach to HDR-blending]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Bracketing]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Chromatic aberration]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Contrast Blending|Contrast Blending (Exposure Blending)]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[HDR compression]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[RAW dynamic range extraction]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Working with RAW files in CS2|Working with RAW files in Photoshop CS2]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUiw3jtErxk Developing & post-processing fisheye images in LightRoom (video tutorial)] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Batch merge handheld images]] {{RateStar|3}}

== Stitching ==
* [http://www.dffe.at/panotools/ptgui5-00e.html Basic Panorama Stitching workflow] with PTGui 5 {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-WEosizCzE Basic panorama stitching in PTGui 9 Pro (video tutorial)] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.johnhpanos.com/ptgtut.htm 360 vr stitching with ptgui for beginners] {{RateStar|1}}
* Workflows for [[high resolution partial panoramas]] {{RateStar|2}}
* Workflows for [http://www.dffe.at/pano360/ full spherical panoramas] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.johnhpanos.com/optitute.htm Using the optimizer] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Full 16 bit workflow]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Using Autopano-SIFT With PTGui]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[How to stitch flat images]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Flat stitching for tilt-shift lenses]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [http://www.dojoe.net/tutorials/linear-pano Creating linear panoramas with Hugin] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[16bit_workflow_with_hugin|16bit workflow for Hugin]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[16 bit panorama blending using 8 bit Gimp]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[High resolution film transparency digitalization using macro lens and stitching]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[HDR workflow with hugin]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Stitching Nadir Shots]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Fixing nadir parallax errors]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Using Celeste with hugin]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Stiching a photo-mosaic]]
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBD1A6D794E9ED132 Creating a Spherical Panorama with Hugin, Panor2VR and Photoshop (Video Tutorial / German)] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/08/02/hugin-101/ Setting control points manually with Hugin] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/08/03/hugin-102/ Hugin Fisheye Basics] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/10/08/exposures-stacks/ Exposures Stack] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2010/09/19/linear-panoramas-mosaic-tutorial/ Linear Panoramas with Hugin 's Mosaic Mode] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/36383814@N00/5830006193 Some notes on using Hugin's mosaic mode to stitch a street elevation]
* [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2011/10/panoramic-photography-revealed-part-ii-creating-perfect-panoramas-the-open-source-way/ Creating Perfect Panoramas, The Open Source Way] A complete workflow featuring Hugin, Gimp, SaladoConverter and Panini{{RateStar|2}}German Version: [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2012/02/hinter-den-kulissen-der-panoramafotographie-teil-ii-perfekte-panoramen-open-source/ Perfekte Panoramen, Open Source]
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/36383814@N00/6327106374 Reusing bits photos to patch holes in panoramas using Hugin]

== Leveling and Remapping ==
* [[Leveling a Finished Panorama]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://www.dffe.at/pano360/pano-horizont-360_en.html Straightening a (360-degree) Panorama] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.johnhpanos.com/levtut.htm levelling a panorama image with ptgui] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Leveling a VR shooting setup]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Perspective correction]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm finding the no-parallax point] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Unusual remappings]]{{RateStar|3}}

== Retouching ==
=== Zenith and Nadir retouching ===
* [[Zenith and Nadir editing overview]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYbEHkxkOds Video tutorials showing 2 approaches: One uses PTGui, the other KRPano Tools] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Remove tripod shadows]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[How to use PTEditor]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Extract and insert rectilinear views]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Using enblend to fill the "Hole in the floor"]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Edit zenith and nadir in one go with PTGui]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Edit zenith and nadir in one go with Adjust filter]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[How to use enblend for patching zenith and nadir images]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[How to remove blending error caused by enblend and enfuse at zenith and nadir (automatic)]]
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/03/18/edit-the-nadir/ Edit nadir with Hugin] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/03/24/edit-the-nadir-part-ii/ Edit layered nadir with Hugin] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/36383814@N00/2845671569/ pafextract walkthrough] for using [[panoglview]], [[pafextract]] and [[Hugin]] as a replacement for [[PTEditor]]

=== Tripod Caps ===
* [[Adding a nadir cap (mirror ball)]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Adding a nadir logo with text]] {{RateStar|3}}

=== Other retouching ===
* [[Upsampling a single image with ptstitcher]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Retouching broken lines in Photoshop]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Mending parallax errors with the shear tool]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://www.inertia-llc.com/sandbox/tutorials/shadow-matchcolor/ Shadow Removal on Panoramic Photography] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Time lapse stabilization]] {{RateStar|3}}

== Web Presentation ==
* [[Partial Panoramas using ROI in PTViewer]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[HTML code for several viewers]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Uploading Wiki Related Files]] Note: Just use the "upload file" link on the left of the page
* [[create a custom ptviewer jar file]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Geo-referencing panoramas with Google Maps]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Have a single ptviewer jar file per website]] {{RateStar|3}}
* PTViewerME2 Tutorial [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/06/29/ptviewerme2-tutorial-part-1/ part 1], [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/06/30/ptviewerme2-tutorial-part-2/ part 2], [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/07/17/ptviewerme2-tutorial-part-3/ part 3] {{RateStar|1}}

=== Virtual Tours ===
* [http://bit.ly/tut_krpano_gmap Creating a Virtual Tour with krpano and Google Maps Plugin (Video Tutorial / German)] {{RateStar|2}}

== Object Movies ==
* [[Create object movies]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Self-made object turntable]] {{RateStar|1}}

== Printing ==
* [[Printing panoramas]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Philosphere]] {{RateStar|1}}

== Settings, values and miscellaneous==
* [[How to allocate enough RAM for PTEditor]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Circular cropping values in PTGui]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Build pano12 from sourcecode]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Build pano12 from sourcecode MSVC]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[How to install actions in Photoshop]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[How to install plug-ins in Photoshop]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Enable windows file extensions]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Embed QTVR into Powerpoint]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Animating panoramas in Blender]] {{RateStar|3}}

===Community===
* How to use a [[Panotools:newsreader|NNTP newsreader]] to read the [[mailing list]]

== External links ==
* A growing list of very good tutorials can be found on http://www.johnhpanos.com/tuts.htm

[[Category:List]]

Talk:Extracting and inserting rectilinear Views

2012-12-01T13:25:17Z

Erik Krause: Erik Krause moved page Talk:Extracting and inserting rectilinear Views to Talk:Extract and insert rectilinear views: better wiki-linkable without capitals

#REDIRECT [[Talk:Extract and insert rectilinear views]]

Extracting and inserting rectilinear Views

2012-12-01T13:25:17Z

Erik Krause: Erik Krause moved page Extracting and inserting rectilinear Views to Extract and insert rectilinear views: better wiki-linkable without capitals

#REDIRECT [[Extract and insert rectilinear views]]

Talk:Extract and insert rectilinear views

2012-12-01T13:25:17Z

Erik Krause: Erik Krause moved page Talk:Extracting and inserting rectilinear Views to Talk:Extract and insert rectilinear views: better wiki-linkable without capitals

==Enhance==

I might be wrong, but could be some applications and techniques are still missing (Pano2VR?) <small>--[[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 23:44, 21 September 2008 (CEST)</small>

I edited my plugin name from SuperRune (my company name) to Super Cubic (the actual plugin name), and updated the URL. Hope you don't mind. <small>--Rune, 15:55, 18 April 2009</small>

: Of course not. I'd hope any supplier would...--[[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 20:09, 19 April 2009 (UTC)

Extract and insert rectilinear views

2012-12-01T13:25:17Z

Erik Krause: Erik Krause moved page Extracting and inserting rectilinear Views to Extract and insert rectilinear views: better wiki-linkable without capitals

== Intro ==
One of the most problematic points when shooting spherical panoramas is the view straight down also called the nadir view. Either the tripod is visible or there may be alignment or color mismatches if shooting handheld.

Unfortunately neither the nadir nor the zenith (straight above) area can be edited directly in the [[equirectangular]] image since it is very distorted. For this task we need to extract a partial view - best in [[Rectilinear Projection]].

== Warning ==
<b>Important!</b> For all transformations that use non-overlapping images like assembling cube faces to an [[equirectangular]] image the 'Fast transform' option should be disabled. As a default 'Fast transform' is disabled for the [[Panorama Tools Plugins]] and for [[PTEditor]]. However, it is enabled by default for some of the GUIs ([[PTGui]] f.e.)

Fast Transform can cause the loss of some pixels in the corners of an [[Rectilinear Projection|rectilinear]] image which will be visible as small triangular black holes in the result image. More on 'Fast Transform' on [http://www.fsoft.it/panorama/pano12.htm Fulvio Senore's page].

PTGui 5 has a new internal stitcher which causes a similar effect even if Fast Transform is switched off. <b>Don't use PTGui 5 internal stitcher to assemble cubefaces!</b> Choose "Panotools Stitcher" (PTStitcher) instead.

== Possibilities with panotools ==
There are basically three possibilities to extract partial [[Rectilinear Projection|rectilinear]] views with panorama tools:
* [[PTEditor]]
* [[Panorama Tools Plugins]]
* [[PTStitcher]] or [[nona]] used directly or indirectly by script or batch file, GUI or [[PanoCube]] Plus

=== PTEditor ===
[[PTEditor]] is a [[Java]] application provided with the standard [[Panorama Tools]] distribution. It should run on any OS where Java and the panotools runtime (the [[pano12]] library) are installed. There is a nice tutorial on [[How to use PTEditor]]. This is the most convenient way to extract and insert any arbitrary [[Rectilinear Projection|rectilinear]] view. The disadvantage is that it doesn't save 16 bit images.

=== Panotools plugins ===
The [[Photoshop]] and [[Gimp]] compatible [[Panorama Tools Plugins]] are part of the standard Panotools distribution as well. The most recent version that corrects some bugs and works for 16 bit is available as part of the panotools download from [http://sourceforge.net/projects/panotools/ panotools sourceforge page].

The plugins contain the [[Panorama Tools Plugins#Adjust|Adjust]] filter, which is capable of extracting and inserting any view in almost any projection. Any data (pan/tilt angle, size of view etc.) has to be inserted manually. Yaw, roll and pitch value have to be calculated or estimated which makes the usage a bit inconvenient.

However, extracting and inserting [[Zenith]] or [[Nadir]] is straightforward and relatively easy. [[Helmut Dersch]] has outlined the basic workflow in [http://www.panotools.org/dersch/panorectilinear/panorectilinear.html Extracting Rectilinear Images from Panoramas]. You need to do the following:

==== Extracting ====
* Load the [[Equirectangular]] image in [[Photoshop]] (or any plugins compatible image editor).
* Choose 'Adjust' or 'PTAdjust' from the Filter menu.
* Press the small 'Prefs' button in the upper right corner.
* In the following dialog uncheck option (a) and check options (b) and (c) (see [[Panorama Tools Plugins#Preferences|plugins description for details]])
* confirm with 'Ok'
* check 'Extract', check 'Use Options' and press 'Set'
* In the following dialog there is an upper part called 'Image:' and a lower one called 'Panorama'
* In the 'Image' section:
** Set HFOV 90 for a cube face (or any other Field of View to your need).
** Choose 'Width' and 'Height' appr. 1/3 of the source image width in order to not degrade image because of too low resolution.
** Choose 'Format: Rectilinear'
** Set 'Yaw' and 'Roll' to 0.0
** Set 'Pitch' to -90 for [[Nadir]] or 90 for [[Zenith]]
* In the 'Panorama' section:
** Set HFOV to 360 for a full sphere.
** Leave 'Width' and 'Height' empty (will be read from the image)
** Check 'Save to Buffer' if you want to merge the result into your pano later.
** Choose Format: PSphere (which means [[Equirectangular]])
** Uncheck 'Load Buffer' to avoid loading of previously saved images.
* Press 'Ok' twice to perform the transformation

The result image will be loaded into a new window where you can edit it as any other image.

==== Inserting ====
Once you are done with editing the image you can either insert it back to your orignal pano or load it as a masked layer.

===== Merging =====
You need to have checked 'Save to Buffer' in order to be able to merge the result into your pano.
* With the edited rectilinear image as foremost (active) document open Adjust or PTAdjust dialog from the filter menu.
* Choose 'Insert' and 'Use Options' and press 'Set'
* in the following dialog leave anything as is or set it to the values described in the Extracting part if you changed them meanwhile with these exceptions:
* In the 'Panorama' section:
** Uncheck 'Save to Buffer'
** Check 'Load Buffer'
** check 'or paste'
** Choose 'Color Correction: none'
** Set 'Feather:' to a small value or 0
* Press 'Ok' twice to perform the transformation ans merging.

===== Loading as layer =====
Sometimes it might be usefull to load only the transformed Nadir or Zenith image in order to insert it as a new layer into a panorama.
* With the edited rectilinear image as foremost (active) document open Adjust or PTAdjust dialog from the filter menu.
* If you changed any settings since extracting the image set them as described under Extracting.
* Press 'Ok' to perform the transformation

The image is loaded as a document containing an [[alpha channel]] with the mask. In photoshop you can move this into a masked layer:
* In the layers palette double click the layer thumbnail in order to create a layer from background.
* Choose 'Load Selection' from the 'Select' menu.
* Choose 'Channel: Alpha 1' as new selection and press 'Ok'
* Click the 'Add vector mask' button in the bottom line of the layers palette.
* Shift-Drag (pres and hold the shift key after started dragging) the layer from the layers palette to your original panorama.

=== PTStitcher ===
[[PTStitcher]] supports 16 bit images and can be used to extract and insert partial views in different ways.
* By directly scripting it.
* With [[PanoCube]] Plus
* By one of it's GUIs ([[PTGui]], [[PTAssembler]], [[Hugin]], [[PTMac]]...)

[[nona]] is a free alternative to [[PTStitcher]] that can be used as a drop-in replacement if [[PTStitcher]] is not available.

==== Scripts ====
There are several scripts or batch files available that extract 6 cube faces from an [[Equirectangular Projection]] image. One of the most convenient windows batch file is written by Eric Gerds and part of his [http://www.pinlady.net/vr/#anchor3 DOS Utilities for Panoramas]. A less convenient batch file is found on [http://www.erik-krause.de/ttt Erik Krause's ] page. [[PTStitcher]] scripts are found on [http://www.path.unimelb.edu.au/~bernardk/tutorials/360/readme/scripts.html Ben Kreunen's ] page

==== PanoCube Plus ====
[[PanoCube]] Plus can extract six cube faces (single, batch modes) for editing and then convert it directly into [[QTVR]] cubic movie(s). Both 8/16 bits per channel are supported - depending on the [[pano12]] library used the cube faces are the same bit depth as the source images.

To activate "equirectangular to 6 cube faces" mode copy the file <code>Script.txt</code> to the folder where your source image is and set "1" as first character in this line using a text editor (notepad!):

<pre>1 # create tiles for editing ( 0 = NO, 1 = YES). Default NO.</pre>

in the file <code>Script.txt</code> and put it into pano's folder. Next drag and drop your single pano or folder with panos onto the program icon. The source file name and path should contain no spaces. The source image must be exactly in 2:1 format (f.e. 2000x1000 or 6000x3000 pixels). [[PanoCube]] calls [[PTStitcher]] 6 times and creates 6 files in the order front, right, back, left, top, bottom and replaces the last two characters of the name with 11, 22, 33, 44, 55, 66. All files ended with 55 are represent zenith view, ended with 66 - nadir view.

After editing drag again any one (not all!) tile or folder with tiles to get [[QTVR]] cubic movie(s). In batch mode important to have first six letters differ in filenames, otherwice PanoCube can skips "similar" files.

This technique is good if the final product is a [[QTVR]] movie. If you need an equirectangular for PTViewer you can of course drag the .mov file on panocube plus to get it converted, but image quality suffers because of intermediate [[JPEG]] compression and decompression and another [[interpolation]] step.

==== Inserting cubefaces again ====
You can assemble the cube faces again using the [[PTGui]] template from http://www.erik-krause.de/ttt or the batch file from Eric Gerds: [http://www.pinlady.net/vr/#anchor3 Dos for Panoramas].

You can even remap only one cube face to equirectangular and insert it as an additional layer into your layered photoshop document. This has several benefits:
* no additional [[interpolation]] for the rest of the panorama.
* possibility to patch nadir in a relative early stage of editing thus leaving open any possibility of correcting over all colors etc.
* preserving as much as possible of the original image data

To re-insert the patched cubeface into the original document implies that you have worked on a cube face with enough resolution, preferable the pixel width of the original pano divided by 3.

You can use the batch file or [[PTGui]] template mentioned above. You simply have to set output size equal to your original panorama size and create single image [[TIFF]]s as output. Any of those [[TIFF]] files can be added to the original panorama as a masked layer using the "Tiff to masked layers" action from http://www.erik-krause.de/ttt

To use any of the other GUIs you need to
* Add the cube face as input image
* specify [[Rectilinear Projection|rectilinear]] and FoV 90° for input images
* set all lens correction parameters to 0.0
* specify the correct yaw and pitch values for the particular image:
<pre>
tile front right back left top bottom
Yaw 0 90 180 -90 0 0
Pitch 0 0 0 0 90 -90
</pre>
* specify the correct output size.
* specify [[TIFF]] without mask or feather (TIFF_m) as output format.
* don't set control points and don't optimize
* create the panorama

==== GUI ====
All of the [[GUI front-ends]] should be capable of extracting an arbitrary [[Rectilinear Projection|rectilinear]] view from a spherical pano. Use the equirect image as input (don't forget to set the correct FoV) and specify a rectilinear image with 90° as output "panorama". Set all lens correction parameters to 0.0. Then change yaw and pitch of the input image until you get the desired view. Note that the values work the other way round than when inserting an image.

==== PTGui ====
[[PTGui]] offers an additional advantage: The panorama editor and numerical transform. To use it load your image as described above, open panorama editor and choose 'Numerical Transform' from the edit menu.

On the 'Panorama Settings' tab don't forget to uncheck 'Use fast transform' (for details see [[#Warning|Warning]] at top of page).

To pan along the horizon f.e. in 20° steps insert 20 into the 'Yaw' field and press 'Apply' repeatedly until you get the desired view. Positive values pan right, negatives left.

Do the corresponding for 'Pitch' and 'Roll' if needed. This way you can extract any partial view. Once your are done create the "Panorama" (which is the desired partial view) using output format [[TIFF]]. Note down or save the exact values for Yaw, Roll and Pitch as shown on 'Image Parameters" tab page.

Now edit the partial view to your need. Then add it to the project with your original panorama and on 'Panorama settings' tab change to equirectangular and 360°x180°. Choose individual lens parameters for the new image on 'Lens settings' tab and set 'Rectilinear' and 90° on 'Image parameters' tab. The image should fit now perfectly in the original panorama.

In order to move the panorama back to it's original position go to panorama editor again and choose 'Numerical transform'. Now Enter the exact values for Yaw, Roll and Pitch you previously saved or noted down. The panorama should move back to it's original position now.

You can create either the complete panorama or the partial view only. Choose the size of the original panorama for output.

There are two templates available for conveniently extract and insert the floor cube face using this technique from [http://erik-krause.de/ttt#Bodenbild_extrahieren http://erik-krause.de/ttt]

== Other possibilities ==
* The free [http://www.superrune.com/technical/software_supercubic.php Super Cubic plugin] for photoshop extracts and inserts both [[zenith]] and [[nadir]].
* A video tutorial using Photoshop actions and PTGui templates can be found here: [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=owq7kaXMTTk Nadir patching in Photoshop with actions and PTGui templates]
* A two parts [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/03/18/edit-the-nadir/ tutorial] with [[Hugin]]
[[Category:Tutorial:Basic need]]

{{Incomplete|Talk}}

Tutorials

2012-12-01T13:23:52Z

Erik Krause: /* Zenith and Nadir retouching */

{{RatingStarSystem}}
There is also a list of all [[tutorials by rating]]
== General ==
* [[The why and how of panoramas]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[How stitching works]] {{RateStar|1}}

== Photography ==
* [[Photography Guidelines]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[DSLR spherical resolution]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEgLgReARxs Video tutorial on finding no-parallax point] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm Finding the No-Parallax Point] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Sigma 8mm Fisheye Canon 350D MrotatorCP]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Special issues with fisheye lenses]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[ChristmasBallPanoTutor| Making a spherical panorama by photographing a christmas ball]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Philopod pitch variation]] technique for shooting handheld {{RateStar|3}}
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouOEM4cKKGc Video tutorial on three panorama shooting techniques] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2009/12/24/nodal-ninja-calibration-tutorial/ Calibrating a panoramic head] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/02/29/parallax/ Understanding Parallax] {{RateStar|2}}

== Preparation ==
* [[A simple approach to HDR-blending]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Bracketing]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Chromatic aberration]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Contrast Blending|Contrast Blending (Exposure Blending)]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[HDR compression]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[RAW dynamic range extraction]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Working with RAW files in CS2|Working with RAW files in Photoshop CS2]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUiw3jtErxk Developing & post-processing fisheye images in LightRoom (video tutorial)] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Batch merge handheld images]] {{RateStar|3}}

== Stitching ==
* [http://www.dffe.at/panotools/ptgui5-00e.html Basic Panorama Stitching workflow] with PTGui 5 {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-WEosizCzE Basic panorama stitching in PTGui 9 Pro (video tutorial)] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.johnhpanos.com/ptgtut.htm 360 vr stitching with ptgui for beginners] {{RateStar|1}}
* Workflows for [[high resolution partial panoramas]] {{RateStar|2}}
* Workflows for [http://www.dffe.at/pano360/ full spherical panoramas] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.johnhpanos.com/optitute.htm Using the optimizer] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Full 16 bit workflow]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Using Autopano-SIFT With PTGui]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[How to stitch flat images]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Flat stitching for tilt-shift lenses]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [http://www.dojoe.net/tutorials/linear-pano Creating linear panoramas with Hugin] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[16bit_workflow_with_hugin|16bit workflow for Hugin]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[16 bit panorama blending using 8 bit Gimp]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[High resolution film transparency digitalization using macro lens and stitching]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[HDR workflow with hugin]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Stitching Nadir Shots]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Fixing nadir parallax errors]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Using Celeste with hugin]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Stiching a photo-mosaic]]
* [http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLBD1A6D794E9ED132 Creating a Spherical Panorama with Hugin, Panor2VR and Photoshop (Video Tutorial / German)] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/08/02/hugin-101/ Setting control points manually with Hugin] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/08/03/hugin-102/ Hugin Fisheye Basics] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/10/08/exposures-stacks/ Exposures Stack] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2010/09/19/linear-panoramas-mosaic-tutorial/ Linear Panoramas with Hugin 's Mosaic Mode] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/36383814@N00/5830006193 Some notes on using Hugin's mosaic mode to stitch a street elevation]
* [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2011/10/panoramic-photography-revealed-part-ii-creating-perfect-panoramas-the-open-source-way/ Creating Perfect Panoramas, The Open Source Way] A complete workflow featuring Hugin, Gimp, SaladoConverter and Panini{{RateStar|2}}German Version: [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2012/02/hinter-den-kulissen-der-panoramafotographie-teil-ii-perfekte-panoramen-open-source/ Perfekte Panoramen, Open Source]
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/36383814@N00/6327106374 Reusing bits photos to patch holes in panoramas using Hugin]

== Leveling and Remapping ==
* [[Leveling a Finished Panorama]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://www.dffe.at/pano360/pano-horizont-360_en.html Straightening a (360-degree) Panorama] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.johnhpanos.com/levtut.htm levelling a panorama image with ptgui] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Leveling a VR shooting setup]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Perspective correction]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm finding the no-parallax point] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Unusual remappings]]{{RateStar|3}}

== Retouching ==
=== Zenith and Nadir retouching ===
* [[Zenith and Nadir editing overview]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYbEHkxkOds Video tutorials showing 2 approaches: One uses PTGui, the other KRPano Tools] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Remove tripod shadows]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[How to use PTEditor]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Extracting and inserting rectilinear Views]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Using enblend to fill the "Hole in the floor"]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Edit zenith and nadir in one go with PTGui]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Edit zenith and nadir in one go with Adjust filter]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[How to use enblend for patching zenith and nadir images]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[How to remove blending error caused by enblend and enfuse at zenith and nadir (automatic)]]
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/03/18/edit-the-nadir/ Edit nadir with Hugin] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/03/24/edit-the-nadir-part-ii/ Edit layered nadir with Hugin] {{RateStar|1}}
* [http://www.flickr.com/photos/36383814@N00/2845671569/ pafextract walkthrough] for using [[panoglview]], [[pafextract]] and [[Hugin]] as a replacement for [[PTEditor]]

=== Tripod Caps ===
* [[Adding a nadir cap (mirror ball)]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Adding a nadir logo with text]] {{RateStar|3}}

=== Other retouching ===
* [[Upsampling a single image with ptstitcher]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Retouching broken lines in Photoshop]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Mending parallax errors with the shear tool]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [http://www.inertia-llc.com/sandbox/tutorials/shadow-matchcolor/ Shadow Removal on Panoramic Photography] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Time lapse stabilization]] {{RateStar|3}}

== Web Presentation ==
* [[Partial Panoramas using ROI in PTViewer]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[HTML code for several viewers]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Uploading Wiki Related Files]] Note: Just use the "upload file" link on the left of the page
* [[create a custom ptviewer jar file]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Geo-referencing panoramas with Google Maps]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[Have a single ptviewer jar file per website]] {{RateStar|3}}
* PTViewerME2 Tutorial [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/06/29/ptviewerme2-tutorial-part-1/ part 1], [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/06/30/ptviewerme2-tutorial-part-2/ part 2], [http://panospace.wordpress.com/2008/07/17/ptviewerme2-tutorial-part-3/ part 3] {{RateStar|1}}

=== Virtual Tours ===
* [http://bit.ly/tut_krpano_gmap Creating a Virtual Tour with krpano and Google Maps Plugin (Video Tutorial / German)] {{RateStar|2}}

== Object Movies ==
* [[Create object movies]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Self-made object turntable]] {{RateStar|1}}

== Printing ==
* [[Printing panoramas]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Philosphere]] {{RateStar|1}}

== Settings, values and miscellaneous==
* [[How to allocate enough RAM for PTEditor]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Circular cropping values in PTGui]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Build pano12 from sourcecode]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Build pano12 from sourcecode MSVC]] {{RateStar|3}}
* [[How to install actions in Photoshop]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[How to install plug-ins in Photoshop]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Enable windows file extensions]] {{RateStar|2}}
* [[Embed QTVR into Powerpoint]] {{RateStar|1}}
* [[Animating panoramas in Blender]] {{RateStar|3}}

===Community===
* How to use a [[Panotools:newsreader|NNTP newsreader]] to read the [[mailing list]]

== External links ==
* A growing list of very good tutorials can be found on http://www.johnhpanos.com/tuts.htm

[[Category:List]]

Removing Tripod Shadows

2012-12-01T13:22:59Z

Erik Krause: Erik Krause moved page Removing Tripod Shadows to Remove tripod shadows: better wiki-linkable if no capitals

#REDIRECT [[Remove tripod shadows]]

Remove tripod shadows

2012-12-01T13:22:58Z

Erik Krause: Erik Krause moved page Removing Tripod Shadows to Remove tripod shadows: better wiki-linkable if no capitals

Many panographers like to present a pure spherical image, with no sign of the photographer or his/her apparatus. It is widely known how to use an additional "nadir shot" to replace the image of a tripod, but somehow it seems more difficult to eliminate the shadows of the tripod, pole, and photographer from a pano taken at a strongly lighted spot. However, this can be done by applying the same principle: combine several shots in which the shadows are in different places.

If all images are taken from a fixed lens position, the shadow of the camera itself must be at the same place in all of them. But we can move the shadow of the support, simply by moving the support. This is easiest if the camera is mounted on a telescoping monopod or pole, but can be done with a conventional tripod as well. And when the camera shadow is sufficiently far away, it is possible to get a completely clean 'patch shot' by shifting the camera slightly to one side of the panocenter.

As in all other aspects of photography, the key to success is visualizing problems before shooting, and planning ways around them. First, you must be aware of the direction of the light that is making the shadows. You will need to move things at right angles to that direction in order to to shift the shadows. Second, choose a spot where the shadow of the camera itself is either far away or in a dark place, perhaps inside some natural shadow that will be part of the picture. Make sure the chosen spot gives you enough room to maneuver yourself and your equipment. If using a tripod, try to place it so the shadows of two legs coincide.

When taking the fixed shots from panocenter, take care that your own shadow is not in any of them; or when that is not possible -- for example when shooting from a hand-supported pole or using a cable release -- take each shot in which your shadow appears twice, once standing to the left of the camera and once standing to the right.

To take your 'shadow patch' shots, slant the support off to the side (at right angles to the light) while keeping the lens as nearly as possible at panocenter and pointed at the shadow area. This is easiest with a pole, especially one that rests on the ground. In that case you can get a pretty stable shooting position by extending the pole enough to compensate for the slant. for example:
slant 15 degrees: no compensation needed;
slant 30 degrees: 1/6 of the distance you move the foot;
slant 45 degrees: 2/5 of the distance you move the foot.

If using a tripod, extend its center column as much as possible for the fixed shooting. Then fold the legs and use it like a pole. You will need more slant than with a pole, to let the camera see past the tripod's shoulders. It may be feasible to extend the legs, but I usually just hold it up in the air.

Before moving the support, sight on a couple of reference points to help you judge lens position, and tighten the lock screw on your rotator if using one.

Sometimes the same shot can serve as both nadir patch and shadow patch, but it is best to take them separately, optimizing each for its particular function. In fact it is a good plan to take several shadow patches, for two reasons. It is much easier to align a small patch well than a big one. But more important, in a single shot you can easily have part of your shadow where part of the tripod shadow was -- it isn't there anymore, so it's hard to tell. If you take two, standing on opposite sides of the shadow area, with the pole slanted in opposite directions, it is much more likely you will cover everything.

When stitching, handle your shadow patches like a nadir patch. Enable viewpoint optimization. Make sure all control points are near the shadow region, and more or less on one plane. That does not have to be a horizontal plane, or even a flat surface, in fact just picking points roughly equidistant from the camera also works well. Mask out all shadows in the fixed images, mask the patch images completely, then erase the masks just where needed to fill the gaps.

In difficult cases you can try advanced patching tricks such as using the same patch twice with different control points and mask. But if you plan and execute your shooting carefully that should not be necessary.

== Example 1: hand-supported monopod ==
Shot with a 180 degree fisheye lens on a small camera mounted on a light monopod, equipped with a bubble level, standing on a rock. It was early morning, so the shadow of the pole and camera extend a long way into the water.

The basic shooting pattern was simply 4 shots around, but I took the view in the direction of the shadow twice, once standing to the left of the camera and once to the right. Then I moved well to the right and held the pole at a flat slant to to take a combined shadow and nadir patch shot.

To stitch I just masked the unwanted shadows and the top of the monopod, and blended all the images. The last picture shows part of the stitched panorama. You can see the interactive version [http://www.360cities.net/image/bright-rocks-narragansett-bay#352.60,0.50,77.5 here].

== Example 2: pole supported by tripod ==
15mm fisheye lens on a 1.6 crop DSLR mounted on a telescoping pole, supported by a medium-weight tripod via a plastic spring clip that lets me separate the pole from the tripod with a firm pull. The pole rotates on its own ball-jointed foot. Shooting pattern 6 around down 55 degrees, 8 around level; 6 around up 55 degrees.

Left, the down view in the direction of the shadow. Several other down and two level views have shadows that had to be masked out. Center, shadow patch shot from the left. Right, shadow patch shot from the right. A separate nadir patch was also taken.

Part of the stitched panorama, extracted for cloning out small unpatched (black) areas at the nadir and the camera shadow on the bottom fence rail. All other shadows were patched in stitching.

The full size interactive panorama is [http://tksharpless.net/FlashPanos/30thStreet-6AM.html here].

-- 30 November 2012 Thomas K Sharpless
[[Category:Tutorial:Nice to know]]

Remove tripod shadows

2012-12-01T13:20:03Z

Erik Krause: categorized

Interpolation

2012-11-19T19:35:31Z

Erik Krause: /* Aliasing */ typo

{{Glossary|A mathematical way to estimate a value in between two values. In image processing: The pixel color and brightness in between two pixels.}}
=== Definition ===
For panorama creation images have to be changed in geometry, they have to be remapped. Since image content is rastered in pixels it has to be moved to different pixels. In most cases a destination pixel does not correspond exactly with the location of a source pixel, it lies somewhere in between. The process of getting the best image content from in between some pixels is called interpolation.

=== Types ===
There are several types of interpolation used in Panotools, from fast but not so good ones to very slow but precise ones. There is a comparison of the different types by Helmut Dersch: [http://www.panotools.org/dersch/interpolator/interpolator.html] Jim Watters extended this test to some interpolators that where introduced later and added some timing information: [http://photocreations.ca/interpolator/index.html]

=== Issues ===
==== Aliasing ====
If the image content is reduced significantly in size such that original image detail will be smaller than pixel size in the result image an effect called aliasing occures. Better image processors use an anti aliasing filter to prevent this. Panotools prior to version 2.7.0.11 do not use such a filter and hence should not be used to downsample images. Newer versions have additional anti-aliasing filters - the old filters still cause aliasing. See [[Aliasing]] article for details.

==== Echos ====
Although the large kernel sinc interpolators (sinc256 and sinc1024) are far superior if you have small regular details that most likely will cause moiré with less sophisticated interpolators there is some drawback using the sinc versions if you have hard edges. They cause some echos of the edge in either direction. The example images below (enlarged to 400%) have been only interpolated twice - one rotation 5 degrees to the left and one rotation 5 degrees to the right.

[[Image:Interpolate_none.jpg|frame|left|Original]][[Image:Interpolate_poly3.jpg|frame|left|Poly 3 interpolator]][[Image:Interpolate_sinc256.jpg|frame|left|Sinc 256 interpolator]]
{{clr}}
<small>--[[User:Erik Krause|Erik Krause]] 05:59, 6 Jul 2005 (EDT)</small>
[[Category:Glossary]]

Extended bracketing control

2012-11-08T21:42:56Z

Erik Krause: /* Commercial */

Shooting exposure bracketed gets more and more important for panorama creation, but most cameras still only support three brackets at 2EV steps maximum. But there are possibilities to work around this limitation. Many solutions support not only bracketing control but eventually many other features (timelaps, sound or light trigger etc). However, exposure bracketing is the main interest here.

This page is about how to extend the camera capabilities. If you look for general HDR information start at the [[HDR]] page.

= PTP bracketing =
[[w:Picture Transfer Protocol|Picture Transfer Protocol]] (PTP) is built into many cameras and should provide a means of not only transferring pictures over USB but also controlling the camera remotely. PTP is part of the [[w:Windows Image Acquisition|WIA]] architecture on Windows, hence it is fairly easy to build a camera control software using f.e. Visual Basic. For other OS's the [http://gphoto.org/ gphoto] project should provide access to such cameras. The gphoto project also collects informations what cameras can be remotely controlled and in what ways: http://gphoto.org/doc/remote/

Hence there are many programs to control your camera from a computer but only few that do the same from a portable device. However, availability of cheap USB host circuitry has triggered some do-it-yourself projects and apparently even some smartphones can use USB hosts nowadays.

== Supported cameras ==
Not all PTP enabled cameras implement all features. Hence it's impossible to tell which cameras can be used for PTP bracketing. The most complete list of cameras supporting PTP or other means of direct control is found in the [http://gphoto.org/proj/libgphoto2/support.php gphoto project]. If your camera is listed, there is a chance that one or the other software will support it. But it is still better to look on the vendor or developer page.

== Programs ==

=== Windows ===
* [http://www.breezesys.com/DSLRRemotePro/ DSLR remote pro] (commercial)
* [http://www.photoremote.de/en PhotoRemote] (free for non commercial use)
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://www.controlmynikon.com/ ControlMyNikon] works ith Nikon DSLRs only. (Commercial)
* [http://hartcw.com/ Smart Shooter] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras and is scriptable (Commercial)

=== Linux ===
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control

=== Mac OSX ===
* <strike>[http://www.digikam.org/ DigiKam] (open source) Should "use gphoto for capture" according [http://gphoto.org/proj/ gphoto page]</strike> no camera control
* [http://www.breezesys.com/DSLRRemotePro4Mac/ DSLR remote pro for Mac] (commercial)
* [http://www.sofortbildapp.com/ Sofortbild] Mac Tethered shooting (Freeware)
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://hartcw.com/ Smart Shooter] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras and is scriptable (Commercial)

== Devices ==
=== Commercial ===
* [http://www.promotesystems.com/ Promote control]
* [http://www.roundshot.ch/xml_1/internet/de/application/d438/d927/f1033.cfm Seitz Roundshot VR Drive 2 with HDR option]
* [http://www.okii.net/default.asp OKII USA] They sell 2USB controls, battery powered, they allow camera control and also very fine follow focusing control. Canon only.
* [http://www.pchood.com/3D%20USB%20Contoller Cinematics]They sell 2USB controls, battery powered, they allow camera control and also very fine follow focusing control, one of them is the unique one that controls 2 cameras for stereo3D photography or video making. Canon only.
* [http://opteka.com/ff1x.aspx Opteka FF1x] it is a simple, battery operated followfocus. No hdr functionsor camera controls
* [http://www.camranger.com/ Camranger] is a small device plugging in the USB connector of several Nikon and Canon DSLRs allowing to control them wireless from an Ipad or Iphone.

=== Do-it-yourself ===
While the commercial devices above should be save (or at least offer some liability) there is a chance the DIY projects might hurt your camera. See [http://vimeo.com/groups/magiclantern/forum/topic:255083 this post] on the vimeo forum.
* [http://dslrsystems.com/ dslrsystems]is an arduino Bluetooth reciever with USB conection to Canon camera, chained with an Android smartphone app
* [http://www.circuitsathome.com/camera-control/digital-camera-control-using-arduino-usb-host-shield-part-1-basics Digital camera control using Arduino USB Host Shield] (DIY / open source)
* [http://xeqo.de/camcap-dslr-controller/ CamCap – DSLR Controller] Android tablet 3.1 app with live view that uses USB host mode
* [http://webuser.fh-furtwangen.de/~dersch/gphoto/remote.html project to control a camera using a network storage unit] running embedded linux by [[Helmut Dersch]]

===Raspberry Pi===
The [[w:Raspberry Pi]] is a very cheap yet complete ARM based single board computer the size of a credit card running Linux. This offers new and exciting possibilities. Some projects:
* [http://islandinthenet.com/2012/08/23/hdr-photography-with-raspberry-pi-and-gphoto2/ HDR photography with Raspberry Pi and gPhoto2] by Khürt Williams
* [http://davidhunt.ie/?p=2641 Camera Pi – DSLR Camera with Embedded Computer] by David Hunt (Timelaps and remote shooting but no HDR yet).

== Chained apps ==
Unfortunately very few smart devices have an USB host to control external readers, iOS would need a special circuitry attatched to their propretary port. Hence proliferation of tools claimed to coontrol the camera from a smartphone, that are more conveniently using a real computer as bridge.
The convenience is that the smart device controlling the camera operations is wirelessy connected to the bridge computer and can be a very valuable companion in studio work. Drawback is it comes more heavy on the field, and can

=== iOS + OSX ===
* [http://www.ononesoftware.com/products/dslr-camera-remote/ DSLR camera remote] A smartphone app and a program running on a PC connected to the camera.

=== Android + other ===
* [http://www.remoteyourcam.com/ remoteyourcam wifi] is compatible with Canon cameras, Nikon compatibility is still not provided. The server application is available for Mac OS X 10.5+ and Windows.
* [http://www.busywww.com/ cameraremote] Documentation is scarce, seems to act through bluetooth. Someone will have to test it.

== Android apps direct USB control ==
Few android apps are avaliable, chaining the full camera control with PTP protocol. Unfortunately only few smart devices are equipped with an USB host, and generally Android 3.1 is required. Till now only few Android can control the cameras directly. The solution is smart and lightweight, requires an USB cable linking your device with the camera, somehow limiting the action range.
* [http://dslrcontroller.com/ DSLcontroller] Android app to control Canon cameras
* [http://dslrsystems.com/ dslrsystems] is an Android smartphone app chained with an arduino Bluetooth reciever with USB conection to Canon camera
* [http://www.heliconsoft.com/ Helicon Remote] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://xeqo.de/camcap-dslr-controller/ CamCap] supports many Nikon and Canon cameras (Commercial)
* [http://www.remoteyourcam.com/ remoteyourcam usb] is compatible with Canon and Nikon cameras,and remotes them via USB host.

= Bulb mode bracketing =
A much cheaper way to control a camera shutter is using bulb mode and opening and closing the shutter directly by cable or infrared. Unfortunately no short exposure times are possible since for fast times the second shutter curtain starts to close already while the first one is still not fully open. Hence bulb mode bracketing is limited to times slower than 1/120s to 1/4s depending on the camera, with fastest possible times getting unreliable. Great for night time HDR but nothing for daylight use where fast speeds are needed. There are lot's of DIY projects and many smartphone apps in this category.

== Supported cameras ==
Any camera that has a cable or infrared release and that supports bulb mode should work.

== Commercial ==
* [http://www.pclix.com/support/pclix-xt-support The PClix intervalometer] has the feature of a programmable shutter push length (to 99/100th sec) and programmable bulb length which can be combined with interval timing -- which makes it useful for continuous sequences of autobracketed bursts.

== Do-it-yourself ==
DIY bulb mode bracketing should be safe if you don't apply power to the connector.
* [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/hdr-jack/ HDR Jack] probably the smallest bracketing controller ever.
* [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/hdr-jack2/ HDR jack 2] improve version build into a standard cable release. There are other solutions with even more features on that page, too.
* [http://www.hdrlabs.com/occ/index.html Open Camera Controller] controlled by a Nintendo DS and build into a game cartridge, many features.
* [http://www.wegroo.com/photoirmote/ PhotoIRemote] controlled by smartphone using audio out using either a self modified cable or a self mad IR transmitter
* [http://newyorkpanorama.com/2009/01/21/long-exposure-night-hdr-photography-with-arduino/ Bracketmeister] Arduino project by Joergen Geerds

== Smartphone apps ==
* [https://triggertrap.com/ TriggerTrap] i-devices app with bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.dslrbot.com/ DSLR.bot] i-devices app with infrared bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.triggerhappyremote.com/ Trigger Happy] I-devices and android app plus cable bulb mode bracketing
* [http://www.thegadgetworks.com/TL-Plus.html TL-Plus] Androide app that programs the [[Heads#AutoMate|AutoMate robotic panorama head]] which then does not only bulb mode bracketing or timelaps but also gigapixel shooting on it's own.

= Camera software hacks =
In-camera bracketing limits are mostly artificial. Where the camera software can be extended or replaced better functionality can be retrofitted. However, there is a small risk of malfunction or even permanent damage to your camera.

* [http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK CHDK] The Canon Hack Development Kit extends the firmware of Canon powershot cameras by many useful features among which is extended exposure bracketing. Also read the FAQ [http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/FAQ#Q._Can_CHDK_damage_your_camera.C2.A0.3F Can CHDK damage your camera?]
* [http://www.magiclantern.fm/ MagicLantern] A firmware hack for some Canon DSLRs providing not only bracketing but mainly extended video functionality. Also read the FAQ [http://wiki.magiclantern.fm/faq#is_it_safe "Is it safe?"]

= Other possibilities =
* Another idea of doc-diy is to [http://www.doc-diy.net/photo/battery_grip/ butcher a battery grip] and emulate the dial wheel by a micro controller. This way exposure could be controlled simply and directly.

[[Category:Hardware]][[Category:Software:Survey]]

Lens correction model

2012-11-02T12:00:50Z

Erik Krause: /* Optimize for lens correction */ corrected link

{{Glossary|A mathematical model that allows the correction of some [[Lens distortion|lens distortions]]}}
== Lens correction model ==

The panorama tools have a very flexible model to correct for typical geometrical lens errors. Even better, it can often even estimate the correction parameters directly from the images in a panorama.

There are a total of 6 parameters that have to do with lens correction.
* First of all there is the lens [[Field of View]] (FoV) - not exactly an error, but a parameter that determines the image perspective distortion.
* The actual lens correction parameters '''a''', '''b''' and '''c''' which are used to correct for [[barrel distortion]], [[pincushion distortion]] and even [[wavy distortion]].
* The lens shift parameters '''d''' and '''e''' that correct for the lens [[optical axis]] not being in the image center.

Two more parameters correct for image errors that are not induced by the lens but by a scanner or scanning camera for example. These are the shear parameters '''f''' and '''g'''.

=== Field of View ===

The [[Focal Length]] is a physical property of the lens. Together with the effective sensor or film size and the focusing distance it approximates the image [[Field of View]] (there are other factors that influence it). '''Caution''': Cropping the image changes the Field of View. If you need to crop your source images for a panorama, crop them all to the same size!

The Field of View together with the lens projection ([[Rectilinear Projection|rectilinear]], [[Fisheye Projection|fisheye]] or [[Cylindrical Projection|cylindrical]] for swing lens cameras) determine the image [[perspective distortion]]. Perspective distortion is less with a smaller Field of View. See Helmut Dersch page [http://www.panotools.org/dersch/perspective/Wide_Angle_Perspective.html] for details about different wide angle perspectives.

=== Lens distortion a, b & c parameters ===

For perfect [[Rectilinear Projection|rectilinear]] camera optics, all you would need to know is the field of view. Perfect results could be achieved by simply mapping pixels in the image to the [[tangent plane]]. Real lenses deviate from this perfect tangent plane projection. The deviations push and pull fixed points in the scene away from where they would have fallen. Luckily, rather than arbitrary pushes and pulls, almost all deviations occur radially, towards or away from some common center, and luckily the deviation amount is almost the same at a given radius around that center. Hence a model that corrects for this deviation based on the radius gives pretty good results.

The [[lens distortion]] '''a''', '''b''' and '''c''' parameters correspond to a third degree polynomial describing radial lens distortion:
:<math>
r_{src} = ({a}r_{dest}^3+{b}r_{dest}^2+{c}r_{dest}+d)r_{dest}
</math>

where <math>r_{dest}</math> and <math>r_{src}</math> refer to the normalized radius of an image pixel. The center point of this radius is where the [[optical axis]] hits the image - normally the image center. Normalized means here that the largest circle that completely fits into an image is said to have radius=1.0 . (In other words, radius=1.0 is half the smaller side of the image.) A perfect lens would have '''a'''='''b'''='''c'''=0.0 and '''d'''=1.0 which resolves into <math>r_{src} = r_{dest}</math>.

Sometimes the above formula is written as
:<math>
r_{src} = {a}r_{dest}^4+{b}r_{dest}^3+{c}r_{dest}^2+d{r_{dest}}
</math>

which is essentially the same.

Usual values for '''a''', '''b''' and '''c''' are below 1.0, in most cases below 0.01. Too high values suggest that you chose a wrong lens type, f.e. fisheye instead of rectilinear or vice versa. This refers to the absolute values of course since '''a''', '''b''' and '''c''' can be positive or negative (f.e. both 4.5 and -4.5 are considered too high values).

The fourth parameter ('''d''') is only available in the [[Panorama Tools Plugins#Radial_Shift|Correct, Radial Shift]] filter of the [[Panorama Tools Plugins]]. It controls the result image size and is calculated implicitly by [[pano12]] (used by PTOptimizer, PTStitcher and the GUIs) in order to keep the same image size:

:<math>
d = 1 - (a+b+c)
</math>

Hence it is not available in the different [[GUI front-ends]] (you can see it in the PTOptimizer result script).

Unfortunately a different parameter also named '''d''' refers to image shift in PTStitcher and PTOptimizer scripts and the GUIs. This sometimes causes confusion. (See more discussion below.)

This polynomial approach is never exact, but can give a pretty good approximation to the real behaviour of a given lens. If you need better correction you must use a distortion matrix, as used by '''Distortion Remove''' (see link below).

==== Lens distortion and fisheyes ====

Unlike rectilinear lenses, fish-eye lenses do not follow the tangent-plane geometry, but instead have ''built-in'' distortions designed to achieve wide fields of view. The radial lens distortion parameters are used the same way for rectilinear lenses and [[Fisheyes|fisheye lenses]], but they should never be used to attempt to remap a fisheye to a rectilinear image. This is done by selecting the proper source and destination projection. Fisheye geometry follows a rapidly-changing trigonometric function which can hardly be approximated by a third degree polynomial.

For fisheyes, the lens correction parameters correct for the deviation between a real lens and the [[Fisheye Projection|ideal fisheye geometry]].

=== Lens or image shift d & e parameters ===

Sometimes a lens and image sensor might not be centered with respect to each other. In this case the [[optical axis]] doesn't fall on the image center. This is particularly the case for scanned images where you never can say whether the film is centered on the scanner or not.

If the above lens correction algorithm is used on such images both lens correction and perspective correction work on the wrong center point. The lens shift parameters '''d''' (horizontal shift) and '''e''' (vertical shift) compensate for that problem. They contain values in pixel units which determine how far the center for radial correction is shifted outside the geometrical image center.

=== Image shear g & t parameters ===

Image shear is not a [[lens distortion]] but nevertheless is part of the panotools lens correction model. It corrects for a distortion induced by scanners or scanning cameras that causes a rectangular image being sheared to the form of a parallelogram (one side of the images is shifted parallel to the opposite side)

=== Determine lens correction ===

'''a''', '''b''', '''c''' and '''FoV''' are physical properties of a lens/camera-combination at a given focus distance. If you always shoot at the same focus setting, f.e. infinity or the [[Depth of Field#Hyperfocal_distance|hyperfocal distance]], then you can safely reuse the parameters. At different focus settings, '''FoV''' will change noticeably, but usually it is fine to reuse '''a''', '''b''', and '''c''' even then.

There are a number of ways to determine the a, b, c and [[Field of View|fov]]
parameters to calibrate a particular lens/camera combination:

* Taking a single photograph of a subject containing straight lines, defining one or more sets of [[straight line control points]] (types t3, t4, etc.), and optimising for just a, b, c. You need to set the output format to [[Rectilinear Projection]] for this technique to work. This method is used by the author of [[PTLens]]. The [[calibrate_lens]] tool also uses this technique and can operate with [[Fisheye Projection]] images greater than 180°.

* Taking a single photograph of a rectangular or grid object, selecting lots of [[horizontal control points|horizontal]] and [[vertical control points]], then optimising [[roll]], [[pitch]], [[yaw]], [[Field of View|fov]], a, b & c. You need to set the output format to [[Rectilinear Projection]] for this technique to work. The process is similar to this [http://hugin.sourceforge.net/tutorials/architectural/ hugin architectural tutorial]:

* Taking two or more overlapping photographs and selecting lots of normal control points, then optimising [[roll]], [[pitch]], [[yaw]], [[Field of View|fov]], a, b & c. This technique works with any output [[Projections|projection format]] but requires [[parallax]] free images shot exactly from the [[Nodal Point]]. Note that to get a precise measure of the [[Field of View]], you have to take a full 360 degree panorama.

* Using points that are known to be directly above each other such as edges of buildings, windows, reflections in ponds etc... This is the [[vertical control points]] method and works with [[Equirectangular Projection]] or [[Rectilinear Projection]] output and all lenses including those wider than 180°.

* Using a tool such as [[PTLens]], [[lensfun]] or [[fulla]] to read the photo [[EXIF]] metadata and correct the image automatically by looking up the lens in an existing database.

=== Optimize for lens correction ===

If you optimize for lens correction in order to calibrate your lens you should keep some facts in mind:

Since lens correction parameters are determined by evaluating the distortion at different radius values you should provide enough control points at a large range of radii from the image center.
* If you use a rectangular pattern or straight lines for that task, make sure you set control points in all distances from the center.
* If you use two or more images make sure you overlap regions with large potential distortion (f.e. the corners) with regions with low possible distortion (f.e. the center). An only horizontal overlap would do, but use at least 50% in order to overlap the image center of one image with the border of the other.

'''a''', '''b''' and '''c''' parameters influence [[Field of View]], especially for images in landscape orientation but slightly for portrait oriented ones, too. This is because although the implicit calculation of the fourth polynomial parameter tries to keep the image at the same size, this is only possible at the radius '''r_src''' = 1.0.

Outside this radius, especially in the image corners, the size and hence the Field of View might differ. Since they are interconnected in this way, you should always allow the optimization for FoV too, if you optimize for '''a''', '''b''' and '''c''' with more than one image. (You cannot optimize for FoV with only one image). As noted above you need a full 360 degree panorama in order to get an accurate measure of the [[Field of View]].

The '''a''' and '''c''' parameters control more complex forms of distortion. In most cases it will be enough to optimize for the '''b''' parameter only, which is good at correcting normal [[barrel distortion]] and [[pincushion distortion]].

If you want to see how changing the parameters influences distortion correction go to http://4pi.org/downloads/ and get '''abc.xls'''. Don't deactivate macros on loading.

See also [http://www.panotools.org/dersch/barrel/barrel.html Helmut Dersch's barrel distortion page].

There's an excellent tutorial on how to optimize by John Houghton: [http://johnhpanos.com/optitute.htm]

=== Tools to correct barrel and pincushion distortion ===

* The original [[PTStitcher]] can be scripted to batch process images with known a, b & c parameters. It can also be operated with one of the [[GUI front-ends]].

* [[nona]] or [[nona_gui]] (both part of the [[hugin]] distribution) can be used identically to [[PTStitcher]].

* The [[Panorama_Tools_Plugins#Radial_Shift|Correct Radial Shift]] filter in the [[Panorama Tools Plugins]] for the [[gimp]] or [[photoshop]] uses the same a, b & c parameters as [[PTStitcher]]. Note that it doesn't know about d & e shift parameters and uses 'd' as an overall scaling factor instead, which should be d = 1-(a+b+c) to keep the image roughly the same size. If you need to shift the correction center like with the d & e parameter you must combine it with [[Panorama_Tools_Plugins#Vertical_Shift_.26_Horizontal_Shift|Vertical Shift]] and/or [[Panorama_Tools_Plugins#Vertical_Shift_.26_Horizontal_Shift|Horizontal Shift]].

* [[PTLens]] is a [[Photoshop]] plugin and a stand-alone Windows tool that uses the same a, b & c parameters and comes with a database of popular lenses.

* [[Clens]] is a command line version of [[PTLens]].

* [[fulla]] is a command-line tool that uses the same a, b, c & d parameters to correct [[barrel distortion]]. It can also correct [[chromatic aberration]] and [[vignetting]] at the same time.

* [[PTShift]] determines different a, b & c parameters for the three color channels in order to correct for [[Chromatic aberration]] with the [[Panorama_Tools_Plugins#Radial_Shift|Correct Radial Shift]] filter.

* [[Gimp wideangle plugin]] uses a different formula altogether to correct distortion.

* [[Gimp phfluuh plugin]] is another tool that corrects lens distortion using yet another formula.

* [[CamChecker]] is a tool for automatically determining lens distortion and generates a different set of parameters from everything else.

* [[zhang_undistort]] is a tool distributed with [[hugin]] that uses [[CamChecker]] parameters to actually correct distortion.

* [[Distortion Remove]] uses a completely different approach with a distortion matrix. Page in german only: http://www.stoske.de/digicam/Artikel/verzeichnung.html

=== See also ===
[[Image positioning model]]

[[Category:Glossary]]

Panoramic Tripod Head

2012-10-24T19:24:59Z

Erik Krause: We have already a page mentioning Pano-MAXX. Please no advertise-talk here, information is ok, though.

#REDIRECT [[Heads]]

Heads

2012-10-24T19:21:42Z

Erik Krause: /* Pano-MAXX */

{{Glossary|Rigs to mount a camera on a tripod in order to pan and tilt around the [[No-parallax point]]}}
== Off the shelf ==

There is a number of commercial panoramic tripod heads on the market, at widely varying prices. Panorama heads are actually very different kinds of animals and each manufacturer seems to have a different understanding about which functionality has to be part of such a head. Some are made of plastic or even "aircraft" aluminum, you might also fall in love with a stylish wooden head. The price range varies from "a round of beers" to something close to a visit on ISS. Some of them are a joke, a lot of them work nicely, some are specialised on certain body/lens combos, a few have that very professional wow factor. Choose yourself, and if unsure, don't hesitate to ask the members of [http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/PanoToolsNG/ Panotools NG] what fits your needs.

=== 360Precision ===

[http://www.360precision.com/ 360Precision] offer different panorama heads, all CNC machined but with that hand crafted touch. Very elegant products, and certainly more expensive than you might expect. but are very predictable panoramic heads. They are very sturdy and at the same time elegant.

The '''Absolute''' is a very plausible option for those that make panoramas frequently and with the same equipment each time. It is built to a specific body and specific lens combination, saving the photographer the need to find the entrance pupil for their lens and midpoint of the camera. Because of this, it is a very precise way to batch-create panoramas without needing to generate control points for each panorama. The sacrifice is that you lose the option of using a different combination of camera and lens with this head until you purchase an additional lens arm.

Although these limits may seem restrictive, the results are very, very predictable. One possible workflow includes calibrating a template in your software (hugin, PTGui, PTMac), and for every panorama afterward, apply the template and immediately skip to stitching. This saves you the time spent in generating and correcting control points in each panorama. For those that can save significant amounts of time and/or money by doing this, this head truly is a life saver. The generation of the template can be time consuming but may save you hours upon hours of post processing time compared to other solutions.

It is possible to upgrade the 360Precision in modular ways, for instance if you decide to use a different lens for your panoramas, you can order just the lens arm you need, or if you decide to use a different camera for panoramas, you can order just the different camera leg and use the same lens arm.

The '''Adjuste''' is nearly as strong as the Absolute but is easily adaptable for different camera / lens setups. The diameter of the rotating base is smaller which makes for a better (smaller) footprint if you shoot full spherical panoramas.

=== Agnos ===

[http://www.agnos.com Agnos] - Italian manufacturer of panoramic heads and accesories for panoramic photography. I bought an adapter for my fc-e9 fisheye adapter and it is very well built and of a good quality. They will also release (if they didn't yet) a new solution for creating a spherical pano out of 3 pics taken at 120 degrees each with a DSLR rotated at 45 degrees (!).

=== AutoMate ===

[http://www.thegadgetworks.com The Gadget Works] offers AutoMate, a motorized pan-tilt head that is unique in many ways. As the lightest (2 pounds/ 1 Kg) and most compact (4" x 5.5" x 4.5" / 100mm x 145mm x 115mm) robotic pano head on the market, it is particularly well suited for taking into the wilds. AutoMate was originally designed for making gigapixel landscape panos and works quite well for that purpose. It is not well suited for making interior panos or any pano where there are objects in focus closer than about 30 meters, due to parallax issues. The AutoMate controller is a phone or PDA with Bluetooth, but unlike other Bluetooth-controlled pano heads, the controller does not need to be connected to the head more than a few seconds, eliminating the problem of dropping the connection during the taking of the pano. This is because the app running on the smartphone generates a program based on the user's input and then sends that program to the head which contains a computer that saves the program in EEPROM memory. After receiving and storing the program, the robot's program reads it back out and executes the instructions to pan, tilt, half-press and full-press the shutter (electronically through the camera's remote shutter release port). The user can save the current settings on the smartphone, giving the file a memorable name for recalling again if they want to repeat the same process. Even more conveniently, the app remembers the most recent settings and uses them as the default settings set the next time they start up the phone app. There are two apps, one for Windows Mobile phones and one for Android phones. The Android app does not yet have the panorama feature and concentrates on timelapse and HDR. The Windows Mobile app has both panorama and timelapse features. Both apps have a programmer interface that allows the user to write their custom programs. The Windows Mobile app also has a trigger sensor that can be used for capturing the elusive snow leopard in her cave (just as an example :-).

=== Benro ===

[http://english.benro.cn/gimbalhead.aspx Benro ] offer a number of gimbal heads which could function as panorama brackets. The most recent is the [http://english.benro.cn/CpListGG.aspx?ParaId=0&id=87&ProductId=971 GH3], which incorporates a rotator and a gimbal mount.

=== Bogen ===

[http://www.bogenimaging.us/Jahia/home_page Bogen imaging] is now known as (see below) [[#Manfrotto|Manfrotto Distribution]].

=== Cambo ===

Dutch manufacturer [http://www.cambo.com/ Cambo] offers a panoramic head set [http://www.cambo.com/Html/products_photo/set01/english/internet/Item21908.html CLH-500] which has an integrated leveling mechanism and what looks like [[#L-brackets.2C_rails.2C_quick_release_plates|Arca-Swiss compatible]] quick release mounts.

=== DOBAS-01 and DOBAS-02 ===

see > [[#QTVR HEADS|QTVR HEADS]]

=== Fanotec ===
Fanotec, founded by developer and inventor Nick Fan, is based in Hong Kong. Fanotec manufactures the award winning [http://www.NodalNinja.com/ Nodal Ninja] panoramic tripod heads and accessories. They use high quality lightweight aluminum alloy and state of art CNC machining processes. Nodal Ninja is the only pano head built and refined from end user feedback over several years. From universal to specific model designs there are configurations to fit almost any camera and lenses and shooting style. Design objectives for all models include quality, ease of use, portability and price with some models starting at $179. These pano heads allow the user to produce virtually any type of panorama, from single row 360 degree cylindrical panoramas to multirow 360x180 degree spherical panoramas to multi-image mosaics like the super high resolution [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gigapixel_image gigapixel images]. Added features also include rail stops to remember
positioning of camera settings [http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_pupil no parallax point] and variable click stops so you can feel the rotational increments while rotating the head. All pano heads also allow for mounting a camera in landscape mode. The heads are available with the new CNC machined advanced rotators. The changing click stops on-the-fly is as easy as changing a knob from one whole to the next. Depending on rotator model click stops are available from 180
degrees to 3.75 degree click stops - the smallest click stop of any pano head rotator on the market. Fanotec currently builds 4 basic pano head model series combined with a choice of 4 different rotators.

'''Nodal Ninja 180:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja180.html NN180] is intended to simplify panoramas by allowing “single row” shooting only. This makes it ideal for uses of large diameter circular fisheye lenses such as the Sigma 4.5mm & 8mm, Sunex 5.6mm, and Nikon FC-E8/E9, IPIX, FC-E8/E9, Raynox, Samyang etc. You can also use longer focal length lenses for single row panoramas. '''--The NN180 has been discontinued.--'''

'''Nodal Ninja 3 series:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja3.html NN3-MKII] is an award winning pano head. Lightweight, compact and strong, great for those on the go and a popular choice
for Real Estate Photographers, hobbyists, hikers and travelers. This model supports most point and shoot cameras and many smaller DSLR’s.

'''Nodal Ninja 5/5L series:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/nodalninja5.html NN5/5L] is built bigger and stronger and more precise supporting up to 22 lbs (10kgs). Fits all DSLR’s, including Nikon D3X and Canon MKII with or without battery grips, and even some medium format cameras. This series is best suited for both single row and multirow panoramas using wide angle to extremely long focal lengths lenses. The casting mold reached the end of its life span. It's successor, due out by end 2010, will be modular in design and built to even greater precision standards.

'''Nodal Ninja Ultimate R1 and R10:'''
[http://nodalninja.com/products/panoheads/ultimate.html R1 and R10] is part of the new "Ultimate" line of CNC machined components. These are ring style pano heads which uses a lens clamping system. The ring attaches to the lens collar which in turn easily attaches to the head. It's important to note this clamping system does "not" interfere with the focusing capability of the lens. The unique cantilever design of the R1 is one-of-a-kind design and allows the user to select the best tilt option for their lens. By tilting the head up slightly, depending on lens, eliminates the need to shoot the zenith (up shot) for full spherical panoramas reducing both field and post production workflows. And the small diameter base leaves the photographer with an extremely small tripod footprint. This model is best suited for those using ultra wide fisheye lenses and when shooting very quick panoramas is paramount such as in populated areas. The R10
differs from R1 in that the tilt option is built in or static. Both R1 and R10 are available without rotators making them ideal for monopods and pole photography users as well.

'''Carbon Fiber Poles Series 1'''
[http://store.nodalninja.com/categories/Pano-Poles/ Pano Poles] Fanotec poles are easy to operate and carry. They can be extended to maximum height in minutes by pushing up and locking each telescoping section. Made of carbon fiber tubes, they are light-weight, portable and are ideal for on-the-go situations and areas not accessible to vehicle mounted units. Fanotec poles are modular in design. Users can start up with a small module and gradually build up the height by stacking it to a larger module. Each module can be used independently (additional parts needed), creating an array of short poles with different stiffness for different applications, such as horizontal pole for cliff panoramas. Features and Highlights: Thick cross-layered carbon fiber tubes for maximum rigidity and durability, light weight, compact in size - fit most cars and checked luggage, Anti-rotation system maintains rigid azimuth / yaw locking /accuracy, support a large range of DSLR, s3/8" stud and 3/8" female receiver for working with other accessories. (note: include link to pole listing)

Fanotec also manufactures the lightweight [http://nodalninja.com/products/ezlevelers.html EZ-Leveler-II] with or without built in rotators. These EZ-levelers are designed to help fine tune the leveling of a pano head.

=== Hama ===

Distributor of -> [[#Panamatic|Panamatic]]

=== Jasper ===

For me, the [http://www.stereoscopy.com/jasper/panorama.html Jasper Engineering] head has been an excellent value. At about $200, it's strong enough for serious 35mm or comparable digital cameras, which can be used horizontally or (with the included adapter) vertically. [[No-parallax point]] correction is horizontal and covers a variety of focal lengths as long as (I'm guessing) 135mm or more. Like so many heads, a bubble level is included, but hard to read when the head is set up at eye level. The builder will add custom touches very reasonably, In my case I put a Wimberly/Arca quick realease plate on the base. The base is machined aluminum; they provided a peel and stick piece of rubber for the base (to keep the plate from slipping) for about ten bucks.

Pivoting parts on this unit are tightened with cap screws which have patent caps on them to give more leverage in tightening. I ended up prying these off and taking a t-handle allen wrench with me. I'm using a D-70 and a 17-35 usually; a smaller camera would be fine without that extra step.

=== Kaidan ===

[http://www.kaidan.com Kaidan] is no longer selling products and as of April 2009 filed Chapter 7 Bankruptcy. (see [[Media:KaidanBankruptcyFiling.jpg|screenshot]])

=== KingPano ===

[http://www.kingpano.com/ KingPano] is a very affordable pan/tilt head that allows for horizontal and vertical rotation around the no-parallax point i.e. for [[high resolution partial panoramas|multi row panoramas]].

===LinkDelight===

[http://www.linkdelight.com/ LinkDelight] is a vendor of photographic goods on eBay. They offer a [http://www.linkdelight.com/vmchk/Other-Tripods/Pro-360-Photography-Panoramic-Tripod-Head-Gimbal-Bracket-Kit/flypage.tpl.html Pro 360° Photography Panoramic Tripod Head & Gimbal Bracket Kit], also referred to as K7G, with a rotator with click stops at a number of different increments, set by a pin, and what appears to be the ability to make both vertical and horizontal panoramas, but it's not clear if it even works. What is clear is that the product photos show the camera mounted in a completely inappropriate position.

=== Manfrotto ===

A more expensive option is the Manfrotto 303SPH, a large, but well made head. It could double as a boat anchor! I (Rick) have the 303SPH and the Agnos mentioned below. Manfrotto has a site dedicated to their line of pano heads [http://www.manfrotto.com/303SPH/ Manfrotto 303SPH Mini-Site]. Some users complain that the head sags - I have not experienced this. This head can be used with virtually any lens / camera combination. I used to use it with the FC-E9 fisheye, but the head left too large of a footprint in the image.

Manfrotto has a service that helps to find the correct part number for [http://www.manfrotto.com/Jahia/spareparts/site/manfrotto/cache/offonce&t=R088Bg&e=qamwz1tcZOI spare parts] ([[Common_idiot_errors#Dropping_the_click-stop_selector_screw|...just in case you drop the click-stop selector screw]]).

Manfrotto used to be distributed by [http://www.bogenimaging.us/ Bogen Imaging] in some countries. They have now unified the name as Manfrotto Distribution.

=== memorycardsman ===

The FT-900H Precision 360 degrees Panoramic Tripod Head is marketed on eBay by vendor [http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZmemorycardsmanQQhtZ-1 memorycardsman]. It appears to offer both horizontal and vertical mounting, multi-row, and comes with a rotator with click stops every 45°. The [http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.foto-katalog.ru%2Fcomments%2F70880%2FFancier_FT_900H%2F only feedback] on this unit is in Russian (the link is translated with [http://translate.google.com/ Google translate]), and is extremely negative about the product quality.

=== MK PanoMachine / MK PanoHead ===
[http://www.marc-kairies.de/ MK Panorama Systeme], Germany, the new '''MK PanoMachine version 3.1''' is an automatic rotating VR head designed to move your camera from one shot to the next - the camera is released exactly in the right position. Version 3.1 has a new time-lapse mode as well as an integrated power management.

MK Panorama Systeme, Germany launched with the new '''MK PanoHead''' a fine mechanical precision and high-quality 360° panoramic tripod head on the world market.

Key features:

• Panoramic tripod head for the stitching of digital panoramas<br />
• Suited to create cylindrical, spherical and cubic panoramas as well as Multi-Row<br />
• 360° panoramic plate with pre adjustable scale and integrated circular bubble<br />
• Mount the MK PanoHead bracket alternatively on the Manfrotto MA 300 N or a 360° plate of your choice<br />
• Motorize the MK PanoHead bracket with the MK PanoMachine or ROUNDSHOT VR Drive (with adapter)<br />
• tilt up and down + / - 90° exactly in the no-parallax point (click-stops each 15°)<br />
• The MK PanoHead allows the use of heavy digital SLR cameras and medium format cameras<br />
• High-quality materials, fine mechanical work - Made in Germany<br />

The company also provides a rental service.

=== Nodal Ninja ===

see -> [[#Fanotec|Fanotec]] (above) Manufacturer of [http://www.nodalninja.com Nodal Ninja] Panoramic Heads and Rotators.

=== Novoflex ===
[http://www.novoflex.com/en/home/ Novoflex] is a German company with a good reputation in building high-precision photographic accessories.
The company offers now three different sets of already [http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/panorama-photography/ pre-assembled products] as well as [http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/panorama-photography/panorama-plate/ four different rotators].

All parts are built modular to be combine- and interchangeable with other parts from Novoflex. E.g. you can use a standard angle bracket or focusing rack as a part of your panohead setup. This makes it easy to create a custom panorama head that fits your specific needs. Also, it gives you the option to upgrade your setup - or easily re-order a broken part.

Works great with heavy gear.
===Owl===

The [http://www.xhia.de/owl.html Owl] panoramic head is a vertical mount head with a single horizontal rail. It does not allow moving the camera along the lens axis. Instead, it uses a second rotator to rotate the camera to position the no-parallax point above the axis of rotation of the adapter. The rail has a scale and the rotator has degree indications. The no-parallax point distance is the distance on the rail divided by the trigonometrical sine of the angle. Apparently this type of construction is meant for single-row panoramas only while providing a stable hold for heavier lens/camera combinations.

=== Panamatic ===

A more than affordable solution. Judging from information available at their [http://www.panamatic.com/ web site] this "head" is not only extremely inexpensive but also mostly useless. No way to mount a camera in a way so that the lens turns around it's NPP, and no click stops. The pan head of a standard tripod isn't worse but maybe more stable. Also marketed as [http://www.photoaxe.com/hama-panorama-kit/ Hama Panorama Kit]. Better try handheld shots...

As of October 2010, the domain panamatic.com appears to have been taken over by a domain squatter.

===Pano-MAXX===

[http://www.panorama-hardware.de/cgi-bin/framestore.cgi?action=link&sku=PM&lang=com pano-MAXX] is a low-cost German panorama head. It features multi-row vertical orientation and a rotator with click stops at 22.5°, 30° and 36° increments, more click stops selectable by changing a plate. The Pano-Maxx rail system is simple to adjust.

=== Panosaurus ===

Very affordable pan/tilt head which allows for horizontal and vertical rotation around the no-parallax point i.e. for [[high resolution partial panoramas|multi row panoramas]] are the, [http://gregwired.com/pano/Pano.htm Panosaurus] and [http://www.kingpano.com/ KingPano].

=== Pinnacle VR ===

Priced towards the upper end of the middle ($499) is the Pinnacle VR Universal Pano Head that will work with any camera where the tripod hole is in the center of the lens axis. Using pin registration, it can accomodate cameras with or without battery grips attached and supports a wide range of lenses from fisheye to 135mm (on a full frame sensor, 80mm on an APS sized sensor). Details and sample sets of images with PTGui templates can be found at [http://www.pinnacle-vr.com/ Pinnacle VR]

=== PT4Pano ===

German manufacturer specialized on extremely lightweight and precise panorama heads with minimal footprint, optimized for single row panoramas with compact cameras. Different types of rotators and leveling plates (also combined in one product) should work with existing gear, e.g. L-brackets. They also offer a 1.2 ~ 4.1 m / 1.7 kg MonoPod with carbon tubes. [http://pt4pano.com/ PT4Pano.com]

=== QTVR HEADS ===

[http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/szynasmallwymiar.jpg DOBAS-01] and [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/cylindryczna2.jpg DOBAS-02] made by [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/indexen.htm QTVR HEADS POLAND] is high quality, reliable and easy in use panorama head in excellent . It is made of anodized aluminium and stainless steel - the highest quality materials with LIFETIME WARRANTY !!

With [http://www.qtvrheads.pl/indexen.htm DOBAS-01] panorama head you will be able to do single row 360 degree cylindrical panoramas as well as multirow 360x180 degree spherical panoramas, or mosaics. DOBAS-01 is "universal" fitting most point and shoot cameras, SLR's and DSLR's. It fits many medium to large format camera like BRONICA ETRSi. I used that pano head with heavy cameras like OLYMPUS E-1 + ZUIKO DIGITAL 8 or OLYMPUS E-3 + ZD8
Bubble level helps to keep whole system horizontally. Camera is mounted to the panorama head with standard 1/4'' screw. Wieght less 400 grams. Price (about 100$ or 80 EUR)

[http://www.qtvrheads.pl/images/cylindryczna2.jpg DOBAS-02] panorama head is ultralight pano head for cylindrical panoramas. Wieght less 200 grams. Price (about 55$ or 45 EUR)

=== Really Right Stuff ===
[http://reallyrightstuff.com/pano/04.html RRS] panorama equipment is nicely machined, modular gear.

=== Rodeon VR ===
The [http://www.dr-clauss.de/RODEONVRHead_e.htm Rodeon VR Head] is a programmable pano head. Tilt and Rotation are motorised, all steps can be controlled using a Bluetooth device (Notebook or PDA).

=== Reviews ===
Various unbiased reviews are floating about on many of these panorama tripod heads:

'''360Precision''':
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=2 360 Rage] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/tipsntricks/2179 PanoGuide Forum] |
[http://www.chem.ox.ac.uk/oxfordtour/tutorial/index.asp?ID=40&pagename=360precision%20Adjuste Dr. Karl Harrison] |
[http://www.fromparis.com/html/technical_us_quicktime_vr_360precision_adjuste_head_part1.php Eric Rougier] |

'''Kaidan''':
[http://www.precomania.com/rating_getprodrev.php/product_id=9277958/id_type=M Precomania] |
[http://www.vrphotography.com/data/pages/casestudies/vrheadreview1103.html VRPhotography] Note: This is an older review |
[http://rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/quickpanpro/quickpanpro_review.html Rosauro Ona] |

'''KingPano''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/kingpano_review.htm Max Lyons / Tawbaware] |

'''Manfrotto 303SPH''':
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/303sph/303sph_review.html Rosauro Ona] |
[http://www.precomania.com/publicprofile.php/productreviews/userid=624974 Precomania] |
[http://www.vrphotography.com/data/pages/casestudies/vrheadreview1103.html VRPhotography] |

'''MK PanoMachine / MK PanoHead''':
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/mkpanohead/mkpanohead_review.html l Rosauro Ona] |

'''Nodal Ninja''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nodalninja_review.htm Max Lyons - NN1] |
[http://www.photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=93015 Canon Digital Photography - NN1] |
[http://www.pic.templetons.com/brad/pano/panorama-head.html Brad Templeton - NN2] |
[http://www.applelinks.com/index.php/more/nodal_ninja_3_review_of_camera_supporter_for_panomarama_photos/ Applelinks - NN3] |
[http://www.geek.com/fanotec-nodal-ninja-3-spherical-tripod-head/?welcome=true Josh Korwin - NN3] |
[http://www.fromparis.com/html/technical_us_quicktime_vr_small_nadir_hole.php Eric Rougier - NN3] |
[http://www.pixelmania.nl/artikel.aspx?rubriekid=2&artikelid=301 Pixelmania (dutch) - NN3] |
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=9 360 Rage - NN3] |
[http://www.galerie-photo.com/panoramique-nodal-ninja.html Thierry Rebours (french)- NN3] |
[http://www.camera2go.nl/digitale-camera/Dankzij-de-Nodal-Ninja-3-gemakkelijk-panorama-s-maken.html Cameraportal (dutch) - NN3] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/tipsntricks/1984/ John Houghton - NN3] |
[http://www.nodalninja.com/DPhotoUK_05_07_1024.jpg Digital Photography Magazine (May 07) - NN3] |
[http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/panoramas/vr_review/nn3/nn3_review.html Rosauro Ona - NN3 MKII] |
[http://www.photoproductsreviewed.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=7:tripods&id=106:nodal-ninja-3-mkii-full-spherical-multirow-panoramic-tripod-head Photo Products Reviewed - NN3 MKII] |
[http://www.vrmag.org/vartist/VR_industry/REVIEW_OF_NODAL_NINJA_NN3_AND_PREVIEW_OF_THE_NEW_NN5.html VRMag - NN3, NN5] |
[http://www.dslrusers.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=34293 DSLR Users - NN5L] |
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nn5_review.html Max Lyons - NN5] |
[http://www.digitalmagasinet.dk/show.asp?ID=1571 Digital Magasinet (Dannish) - NN5] |
[http://www.amazon.com/Nodal-Spherical-Multirow-Panoramic-Tripod/dp/B001K38Y5O Amazon.com - NN5] |
[http://www.photo.it-enquirer.com/2008/09/11/nodal-ninja-nn5 IT Enquirer NN5] |
[http://www.expertreviews.co.uk/gadgets/246292/nodal-ninja-5-with-rotator-12 Expert Reviews - NN5 w/RD12] |
[http://www.newyorkpanorama.com/2010/09/16/nodal-ninja-review/ Joergen Geerds - NN5 w/RD16, EZ-Leveler-II] |
[http://www.tawbaware.com/nn5_review2.html/ Max Lyons - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.jorgphoto.com/2010/10/04/nodal-ninja-good-as-gold/ Andrew Jorgensen - R1 EZ-Leveler-II] |
[http://www.dentonimages.com/page.php?id=Fanotec_Nodal_Ninja_5_with_RD16_Rotator_Review Denton Images - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.opyd.net/brianopyd/index.php/articles/equipment/22-nn5rd16panoheadreview Brian Opyd - NN5 w/RD16] |
[http://www.nodalninja.com/testimonials.html Customer Testimonials] |

'''Novoflex''':
[http://www.360rage.com/panorama-hardware-item.php?i=12 360 Rage] |

'''Panosaurus''':
[http://www.tawbaware.com/panosaurus_review.htm Tabaware] |
[http://panoramicearth.blogspot.com/2006/06/part-2-panorsaurus-head-review.html Peter Watts] |
[http://www.panoguide.com/forums/qna/2467 Panoguide forum] |

'''Pinnacle VR''':
[http://www.seeit360.net/index.php?page=pvr Sacha Griffin] |

== Lens brackets ==
Another way to keep the lens/camera fixed to the [[no-parallax point]] are lens brackets that directly mounted onto the lens itself. The advantages are less vibrations but the drawback is that you need one bracket for each lens. They are a special type of a [[NPP adapters|no-parallax adapter]].

Some examples:

* Agnos [http://www.agnos.com/catalogo.htm?v_categ_lista=PR001-RINGT Lens ring]
* ''Atome'' series by [http://www.360precision.com/ 360Precision]
* Laser cut wooden brackets from [http://www.bophoto.com/bracket/ Pano Bracket from bophoto]
* Self made bracket from [http://homepage.mac.com/wkaemena/Nikon8Head.jpg Willy Kaemena]

== L-brackets, rails, quick release plates ==
A [http://www.afximages.com/stuff/arca-plates-xref.html compatibility table] lists different brands of '''Arca Swiss style''' plates (and their counterparts). This could help to combine already bought equipment with parts of a different manufacturer, e.g. an old Manfrotto rotator with an additional quick release plate could be connected with a Novoflex L-bracket...

== Self made ==

If you want to build our own pan/tilt head you might get some ideas from those shown below.

Multirow
* [http://www.panotools.org/dersch/heliarVR/heliarVR0.html Helmut Dersch]
* [http://www.erik-krause.de/panohead Erik Krause]
* [http://www.trozzreaxxion.net/misc/panorama/panorama.html Mike Runge (German)]
* [http://blog.robertbreuer.com/?p=16 Robert Breuer (German)]
* [http://www.dffe.at/panohead/ Bernhard Vogl]
* [http://www.nyfeler-mueller.ch/MonoPodHead/QTVR/MonopodHeadQTVR.html Peter Nyfeler/Monopod]
* [http://www.nyfeler-mueller.ch/PanoHeadMulti/PanoHeadMulti.html Peter Nyfeler/Tripod]
* [http://www.chem.uky.edu/xray/people/Parkin/panohead/panohead.html Sean Parkin (English)]
* [http://www.nodalsamurai.co.uk/nodalsamurai.html Pete Loud's Nodal Samurai]
* [http://www.scotthendershot.com/Panohead/UniversalPanoHead.htm Scott Hendershot]
* [http://www.pbase.com/atucker/image/40469012 Tom Sherry]
* [http://photocreations.ca/equipment/index.html Jim Watters]
* [http://www.360bilder.de/eng/nodalpoint.html Bernd Dohrmann]
* [http://www.worth1000.com/tutorial.asp?sid=161123&page=1 low cost wooden head by arodrix]
* [http://www.w3a2z.net/PHead/ John McAllister]
* [http://einem.net/tech/voigtlaender/ Carl von Einem]
* [http://www.milan-knizek.net/cms/panoramaticka-hlava-levne-reseni/ Milan Knížek (Czech)]
* [http://cartola.org/fotos/index-201010.php?dir=Diversas/Engenhocas/Cabeca_Tripe_Panoramica Carlos Eduardo Carvalho (Brazil)]
* [http://cartola.org/fotos/index-201010.php?dir=Diversas/Engenhocas/Cabeca_Tripe_Panoramica-v02 Carlos Eduardo Carvalho model #2 (Brazil)]
* [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2011/09/hinter-den-kulissen-der-panoramafotografie-teil-i-die-ausrustung-fur-die-panoramafotografie-im-selbstbau/ Tilman Bremer (German)]
* [http://www.tilmanbremer.de/2011/09/panoramic-photography-revealed-part-i-hardware-for-panoramic-photography-diy/ Tilman Bremer (English)]
* [http://blog.pryds.eu/2012/07/build-your-own-panoramic-head-novice.html Thomas Pryds]
* [http://rasterweb.net/raster/projects/panohead/ Pete Prodoehl]

Single row
* [http://www.heiliger-net.de/panphoto/n_hardware.htm Panphoto.de (German)]
* [http://panorama.dyndns.org/panohead/simplest_panohead_ever.html Harry van der Wolf]
* [http://anthonygoh.webs.com/large-pano-head Anthony Goh (Singapore) ]
* [http://anthonygoh.webs.com/pano-head-for-micro-4-3 Anthony Goh compact version (Singapore)]

=== Material supply ===
Since you often can't get the popular aluminium profiles in your local do-it-yourself store here some possible suppliers:
* Item International http://www.item-international.com - Internationally active
* CAP http://www.aluprofil.com - situated in Austria
* MayTec http://www.maytec.org - situated in Germany
* KJN Aluminium Profile http://www.kjnltd.co.uk/ - situated in UK
* TSlots Aluminium Profiles (metric and fraction) http://www.tslots.com/ - North America

A web search for "aluprofil" or "aluminium profile" might reveal other suppliers.

[[Category:Hardware]]

User:Erik Krause/test

2012-10-03T11:28:50Z

Erik Krause:

Last edit users
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User:Erik Krause/test

2012-10-03T11:28:15Z

Erik Krause:

Last edit users
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HDR

2012-10-02T21:04:35Z

Erik Krause: linkified

HDR means {{Glossary|high [[dynamic range|Dynamic Range]].|1}} The term is used to refer to techniques and images that are capable of capturing and reproducing scenes with a high [[dynamic range]].

HDR is used more or less accurately for almost any way to get more details out of the shadows and/or highlights. To understand how so-called "HDR techniques" work, it is important to differentiate between the two limitations that affects dynamic range in photography and imaging. The first limitation comes from the capture, i.e. the camera. The second limitation from the display, i.e. monitor or printer.

* <b>Camera</b> limitation: Standard digital cameras can capture at most a [[dynamic range]] of 1,000:1, which is much less than the dynamic range of most outdoor scenes. This limitation is usually addressed by taking several exposures of the same scene (this is the purpose of the "Automatic Exposure [[Bracketing]]" function available in many digicams).

* <b>Display</b> limitation: Standard monitors have a rather low dynamic range, around 100:1, which is not even enough to display correctly the [[RAW]] data captured by a standard camera. This limitation is addressed by [[tone mapping]] or by techniques that directly blend exposures. Exposure Blending can be done either manually in Photoshop, semi-manually with Photoshop actions (see [[Contrast Blending]] and Jook Leung's [http://360vr.com/HDRforDummies HDR for Dummy]) or automatically in specialized software (see [[Photomatix]], [[FDRTools]] or [[pfstools]] - comparison on [[HDR compression]]).

Both camera and display limitations can be overcome with specialised equipment like the [http://spheron.com/spheron/public/en/hdri_spherocamhdr/hdri_spherocamhdr.php SpheroCam HDR] camera and [http://www.brightsidetech.com/ Brightside HDR Display]. However, such equipment remains very expensive for the time being.

HDR images are stored in a high bit depth and/or floating point format. There are several HDR formats among them
* .hdr Radiance [[RGBE]] format
* .tif Floating point [[TIFF]]
* .pfm Portable floatmap
* .float Raw binary floating point
* .exr OpenEXR [[EXR]] format

The [[hugin]] panorama tools [[GUI front-ends|GUI front end]] supports stitching both floating point [[TIFF]] and
Radiance [[RGBE]] HDR images, see the [[HDR workflow with hugin]] page for details. The [[enblend]] tool also supports
blending floating point TIFF HDR data, but not RGBE data yet.

Some more info on HDR is found on wikipedia: [[w:High dynamic range imaging]] and the [http://www.hdrsoft.com/resources/dri.html HDR Image FAQ].

Also, see the [[HDR Software overview]], [[Batch merge handheld images]] and [[enfuse]]

[[Category:Glossary]]

Smartblend on Mac

2012-09-23T17:04:01Z

Erik Krause: Added winebottler, wikified list

To run SmartBlend on a Mac within PTGui, you can follow these steps:

# Download a ''Mac compiled binary'' of Wine. There is a copy here: http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/17376/wine Another one here: http://winebottler.kronenberg.org/
# Download Smartblend (See the link on the [[SmartBlend|Smartblend page]])
# From the Wine dmg, you'll only need the file called 'Wine'. Put it in a convenient place.
# Unzip your Smartblend download and put the whole folder in a convenient place.
# Open PTGui and select the menu Preferences->Plugins
# In the text box labelled 'Smartblend Application' you will need to fill in the path of the Wine binary preceding with the path where you put your copy of Wine. If you keep your Wine file in the Application folder it looks like this: /Applications/Wine.app/Contents/Resources/bin/wine
# In the text box labelled 'Command line parameters' of the Smartblend section you will need to fill in the path of the Smartblend executable preceding with the path where you put your Smartblend folder. If you keep your Smartblend folder in the Application folder it looks like this: /Applications/Smartblend_1_2_5/smartblend.exe

'''Please note''': There is a very easy way to fill in the correct paths of step 6 and 7 without typing:
Just drag and drop the correct files into the relevant text boxes. If you do it correctly, a green '+' sign appears.

To get to the correct files with Wine you'll have to control-click on the Wine application and select 'Show package contents' from the pop-up menu.
Navigate to Contents->Resources->bin->wine and drop this file into the first text box, the one labelled 'Smartblend application'.

Here is a small video of the 'easy' process: http://youtu.be/vnpCdeI6Ujc

== Please note: ==
If you change the location of the Wine or Smartblend folder or if you upgrade to a newer version, you'll have to redo these steps.

Smartblend on Mac

2012-09-23T15:52:05Z

Erik Krause: changed link to internal

To run SmartBlend on a Mac within PTGui, you can follow these steps:

1. Download a ''Mac compiled binary'' of Wine. I get my copy here: http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/17376/wine

2. Download Smartblend (See the link on the [[SmartBlend|Smartblend page]])

3. From the Wine dmg, you'll only need the file called 'Wine'. Put it in a convenient place.

4. Unzip your Smartblend download and put the whole folder in a convenient place.

5. Open PTGui and select the menu Preferences->Plugins

6. In the text box labelled 'Smartblend Application' you will need to fill in the path of the Wine binary preceding with the path where you put your copy of Wine. If you keep your Wine file in the Application folder it looks like this: /Applications/Wine.app/Contents/Resources/bin/wine

7. In the text box labelled 'Command line parameters' of the Smartblend section you will need to fill in the path of the Smartblend executable preceding with the path where you put your Smartblend folder. If you keep your Smartblend folder in the Application folder it looks like this: /Applications/Smartblend_1_2_5/smartblend.exe

'''Please note''': There is a very easy way to fill in the correct paths of step 6 and 7 without typing:
Just drag and drop the correct files into the relevant text boxes. If you do it correctly, a green '+' sign appears.

To get to the correct files with Wine you'll have to control-click on the Wine application and select 'Show package contents' from the pop-up menu.
Navigate to Contents->Resources->bin->wine and drop this file into the first text box, the one labelled 'Smartblend application'.

Here is a small video of the 'easy' process: http://youtu.be/vnpCdeI6Ujc

== Please note: ==
If you change the location of the Wine or Smartblend folder or if you upgrade to a newer version, you'll have to redo these steps.

SmartBlend

2012-09-18T20:02:37Z

Erik Krause: added smartblend on mac

'''Smartblend''' is {{Glossary|an application for seamless image blending by Michael Norel|1}}. He can be reached at minorlogic{at}yahoo{dot}com

The main goal of smartblend is panoramic image blending, though it can be used for other applications, such as creation of seamless textures, montage of photos or collage. Smartblend allows stitching of many problematic shots (parallaxed, with moving objects or with differing exposure).

For example see the parallax picture below (from http://www.htu.at/~sascha/ptguide/01.htm described as "impossible to stitch" )
[[Image:SB_Parallax.jpg|left]]{{clr}}

Just put one picture into another and note the great difference.
[[Image:SB_Parallax_overlapped.jpg|left]]{{clr}}

Picture below is blended by smartblend.
[[Image:SB_Blended.jpg|left]]{{clr}}
Another smartblend example: http://www.photodan.com.au/misc/flamchen.htm

If you don't know what is a "command line application" it can not be useful for you. But you still can use a frontend for smartblend:

* [[PanoWizard]]
* [[EnblendGUI]]
* [[PTGui]]
* [[PTAssembler]]
* [[hugin]] (only together with the smartblend wrapper from [http://hugin.svn.sourceforge.net/viewvc/hugin/hugin/trunk/platforms/windows/smartblend-wrapper/ sourceforge])

Download SmartBlend, current version [[Media:Smartblend_1_2_5.zip|Smartblend_1_2_5.zip]]

== How it works ==

It finds the visual error on overlap region and searches for a seam line with minimal visual error. Than it blends pictures using an algorithm similar to a multiresolution spline.

To study algorithms and options use “–SeamVerbose” and “-PyramidVerbose” commands.

There is a [http://qtvr.by.ru/NewQTWR/sm/smartblend.htm good tutorial], but it's available only in Russian. Anyone to translate it?

Translation by BableFish - [http://babelfish.yahoo.com/translate_url?doit=done&tt=url&intl=1&fr=bf-home&trurl=http%3A%2F%2Fqtvr.by.ru%2FNewQTWR%2Fsm%2Fsmartblend.htm&lp=ru_en&btnTrUrl=Translate Tutorial in English]

Welcome to anyone who wants to improve this smartblend, write a tutorial and other.

<small>(Text taken from original smartblend home page)</small>

== smartblend on Mac ==

There used to be a nice tutorial on tweakbits.com which is gone. If anyone still has the know how, please write a wiki page: [[smartblend on Mac]] For the time being you find the content retrieved from google cache on the corresponding discussion page.

[[Category:Software:Platform:Windows]]